Help! The sheave and pin where the centerboard line turns down into the mast on H26 went flying overboard Saturday. I was cranking up the cb and apparently the fiberglass which supports the pin failed, allowing the pin and sheave to get sqeezed out by the high load on the cb line. How should I go about fixing the fiberglass so it will be strong enough to support a new pin and sheave? See photo. Thanks in advance. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Not too difficult
But I reckon to do the job properly you will need to take of the mast step so that you have plenty of room to glass up.
But I reckon to do the job properly you will need to take of the mast step so that you have plenty of room to glass up.
Similar problem
My recently purchased 1994 H26 suffered a similar fate and the prior owner fiberglassed it back in place. Is this a design flaw ? and is there a way to fix the problem ?
My recently purchased 1994 H26 suffered a similar fate and the prior owner fiberglassed it back in place. Is this a design flaw ? and is there a way to fix the problem ?
how to work with fiberglass
I'm not familiar with working with fiberglass. Can someone provides some detailed info? Thanks, Ron Mehringer
I'm not familiar with working with fiberglass. Can someone provides some detailed info? Thanks, Ron Mehringer
Fiberglass Repair
Hi Ron: The area that broke is a real pain. I have had a lot of trouble keeping a sheave that properly fits in that area. On the fiberglass repair, I would be tempted to hire the local fiberglass boat repair person to fix it for me. Otherwise, you can buy these fiberglass repair kits (with resin, paint, cloth, hardener, etc.) & do it yourself. You have to watch not to get fiberglass in the pipe, & make sure the shoulder is grooved to handle a new pin. Do it in layers until you have the shoulder built up to an acceptable level. If you get too much fiberglass in place, you can always sandpaper or file the area down. I have had good luck using a small electric pencil sander for this purpose. As well, I am not so sure you have to remove the mast plate to get at this area. Good luck! Rick
Hi Ron: The area that broke is a real pain. I have had a lot of trouble keeping a sheave that properly fits in that area. On the fiberglass repair, I would be tempted to hire the local fiberglass boat repair person to fix it for me. Otherwise, you can buy these fiberglass repair kits (with resin, paint, cloth, hardener, etc.) & do it yourself. You have to watch not to get fiberglass in the pipe, & make sure the shoulder is grooved to handle a new pin. Do it in layers until you have the shoulder built up to an acceptable level. If you get too much fiberglass in place, you can always sandpaper or file the area down. I have had good luck using a small electric pencil sander for this purpose. As well, I am not so sure you have to remove the mast plate to get at this area. Good luck! Rick
Your right Rick
If you have not had any experiance n this sort of work get someone else to do it. The cost would be pretty low. I would imagine down here I would have to pay about $60-80.00aus. But if you do decide to tackle the task do as Rick suggested. Build up in small layers. The great thing about glass work is that it is very easy to correct any mistakes. Sorry Rick but if I was to do the job I would take off the mast step so that I can get right in there and mask off etc etc plus it will give more room to work.
If you have not had any experiance n this sort of work get someone else to do it. The cost would be pretty low. I would imagine down here I would have to pay about $60-80.00aus. But if you do decide to tackle the task do as Rick suggested. Build up in small layers. The great thing about glass work is that it is very easy to correct any mistakes. Sorry Rick but if I was to do the job I would take off the mast step so that I can get right in there and mask off etc etc plus it will give more room to work.
This Worked For Me
The exact same thing happened to us. Our harbor master came up with this solution. We used an Over The Top Fairlead Block similar to the one on page 881 in the 2003 West Marine catalog. The size you need may very. This style of block lends itself well for a permanent fix. The pressure from the center board line works to your advantage with this fix. Drop the mast and remove the mast base plate. You may even need to remove the compression post for notching to fine tune the fit, making sure the center board line feeds correctly. The block sits inverted with the legs resting on top of the old fiberglass shoulders just above the old blocks location. We had to repair and reshape the broken fiberglass to accomodate the new hardware. Once the 4 screws are in place the new hardware isn't moving. Caulk and replace the mast base plate and your finished. This worked out terrific for us. Never caused us another problem. Wish I had a picture but we sold the boat. Good Luck! Jeff
The exact same thing happened to us. Our harbor master came up with this solution. We used an Over The Top Fairlead Block similar to the one on page 881 in the 2003 West Marine catalog. The size you need may very. This style of block lends itself well for a permanent fix. The pressure from the center board line works to your advantage with this fix. Drop the mast and remove the mast base plate. You may even need to remove the compression post for notching to fine tune the fit, making sure the center board line feeds correctly. The block sits inverted with the legs resting on top of the old fiberglass shoulders just above the old blocks location. We had to repair and reshape the broken fiberglass to accomodate the new hardware. Once the 4 screws are in place the new hardware isn't moving. Caulk and replace the mast base plate and your finished. This worked out terrific for us. Never caused us another problem. Wish I had a picture but we sold the boat. Good Luck! Jeff
Thanks all.
I ordered a replacement sheave pin and sheave from Hunter and will attempt to repair the fiberglass. I would have tried Jeff's over the top fairlead block had I been unable get original parts ordered from Hunter. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
I ordered a replacement sheave pin and sheave from Hunter and will attempt to repair the fiberglass. I would have tried Jeff's over the top fairlead block had I been unable get original parts ordered from Hunter. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Marine Tex
Ron, sorry to hear about your problem. I had to do the same repair many years ago and used Marine Tex epoxy to make the repair and build up the pin base. Make sure you put vaseline on the pin and use it to form a base in the same location of the original. If you don't use vaseline the pin will be epoxied in for good. I built up mine to the point that you can just force the sheeve and pin into place. No problems since the repair. Call me if you have any questions. Bob "Gravyboat"
Ron, sorry to hear about your problem. I had to do the same repair many years ago and used Marine Tex epoxy to make the repair and build up the pin base. Make sure you put vaseline on the pin and use it to form a base in the same location of the original. If you don't use vaseline the pin will be epoxied in for good. I built up mine to the point that you can just force the sheeve and pin into place. No problems since the repair. Call me if you have any questions. Bob "Gravyboat"
Hi Bob
Too late. By the time I read your message, I already had the job done. Thanks anyway. I reattached the a broken piece back and filled voids using chopped glass and epoxy. Ended with layers of glass over whole thing to keep it strong. So, are you still my neighbor to the north or have you made the move to the sunshine state? Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Too late. By the time I read your message, I already had the job done. Thanks anyway. I reattached the a broken piece back and filled voids using chopped glass and epoxy. Ended with layers of glass over whole thing to keep it strong. So, are you still my neighbor to the north or have you made the move to the sunshine state? Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Photo of repair
Click on the link to see a pic of the fiberglass repair. Still needs to be sanded smooth, but we tested it and it seems fine. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Click on the link to see a pic of the fiberglass repair. Still needs to be sanded smooth, but we tested it and it seems fine. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Attachments
Check that line.
Yes Ron, I am still in the north. I only go to FL for the winter months and returned in May. The line on the CB looks a little worn. I would check it out this fall when you haul the boat. Don't want to lose the CB. Bob Gravenstine "Gravyboat"
Yes Ron, I am still in the north. I only go to FL for the winter months and returned in May. The line on the CB looks a little worn. I would check it out this fall when you haul the boat. Don't want to lose the CB. Bob Gravenstine "Gravyboat"
cb line
The cb line is starting to get kind of fuzzy. Most of it is just on the surface though. I'll keep my eye one it. I worry more about the part I can't keep an eye on, down in the compression post. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
The cb line is starting to get kind of fuzzy. Most of it is just on the surface though. I'll keep my eye one it. I worry more about the part I can't keep an eye on, down in the compression post. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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