We are running a small H26 and want to have refridgeration and get rid of the "ice cooler". Our problem is energy, no inboard only an outboard with limited charging, what's your thoughts? Is LP gas absorption a possibility or to dangerous.. or the only alternative in this case?
- Status
solar panel?
Do you have a good house battery (set) now? If not, you'll need one. A good solar panel installed on the cabintop should provide enough charging, especially if run that motor every once in a while. If using the boat for a long weekend, you might start to run down your batteries running the fridge, but the solar panel will really help.
Do you have a good house battery (set) now? If not, you'll need one. A good solar panel installed on the cabintop should provide enough charging, especially if run that motor every once in a while. If using the boat for a long weekend, you might start to run down your batteries running the fridge, but the solar panel will really help.
We use a Coleman small fridge...
that has an adapter for 120 or 12 volt use. It fits in the cooler spot. You can set it on it's back or bottom. We have two house batteries and a starting battery. I have a solar panel and whenever I'm in the slip I plug in the shor power to keep the batteries at peek. Haven't run out of power after four days use. Lot's better than hauling alot of ice.
that has an adapter for 120 or 12 volt use. It fits in the cooler spot. You can set it on it's back or bottom. We have two house batteries and a starting battery. I have a solar panel and whenever I'm in the slip I plug in the shor power to keep the batteries at peek. Haven't run out of power after four days use. Lot's better than hauling alot of ice.
TOM>>>
Is your coleman one of those thermocoolers that draw about 4 amps and are on at all times when pluged in, if so we tried one and found it to operate fine, cool down etc. but the power consumption seemed high for any length of time and killed the deepcell we had in +- 12 hours not so good for the 2 weeks we were to be gone. Great at the dock with the battery charger on. Steve
Is your coleman one of those thermocoolers that draw about 4 amps and are on at all times when pluged in, if so we tried one and found it to operate fine, cool down etc. but the power consumption seemed high for any length of time and killed the deepcell we had in +- 12 hours not so good for the 2 weeks we were to be gone. Great at the dock with the battery charger on. Steve
Yes, but like I said
we have two deep cycle batteries, a starter battery and a solar charger. Max use for me was four days. I always had enough power. I am going to put a battery charge indicator on the boat this year, so I can really monitor my use.
we have two deep cycle batteries, a starter battery and a solar charger. Max use for me was four days. I always had enough power. I am going to put a battery charge indicator on the boat this year, so I can really monitor my use.
Solar Panel Comment
If you go the solar panel route you'll need two large ones to keep up with the current draw because they'll probably never be puting out their rated power. Also, if there is a place, at least a pair of golf carts but four would be better. We tried a Coleman for a few days and found it seemed to run a lot. We now have an Adler Barbour and it doesn't run as much but the box is 12 cu ft vice the smaller Coleman. One of the problems with refrigeration is it costs so much to get all the batteries, battery boxes, cables (00) w/ connectors and heat shrink tubing, brekers, switches, etc etc that the cost of the Coleman will be pale by comparison. The worst part is you can't take all this stuff off when you sell the boat. Actually, the worst part is the project will be more work and cost more than you ever envisioned. The advantage of solar panels is you can take them off the boat when you sell it so you'll be out only the investment of the batteries and cable stuff. It's going to be a challenge!
If you go the solar panel route you'll need two large ones to keep up with the current draw because they'll probably never be puting out their rated power. Also, if there is a place, at least a pair of golf carts but four would be better. We tried a Coleman for a few days and found it seemed to run a lot. We now have an Adler Barbour and it doesn't run as much but the box is 12 cu ft vice the smaller Coleman. One of the problems with refrigeration is it costs so much to get all the batteries, battery boxes, cables (00) w/ connectors and heat shrink tubing, brekers, switches, etc etc that the cost of the Coleman will be pale by comparison. The worst part is you can't take all this stuff off when you sell the boat. Actually, the worst part is the project will be more work and cost more than you ever envisioned. The advantage of solar panels is you can take them off the boat when you sell it so you'll be out only the investment of the batteries and cable stuff. It's going to be a challenge!
refrigeration
The electric coolers work ok in some circumstances. They work on the "Peltier effect" principle. They will cool to about 20 to 30 degrees below ambient temperature. If you stock them with cold product to begin with, they will keep it cold. If you start with warm product, they will never cool it. We (and others) manufacture these and a much better unit that has a true 12 vdc compressor. It will pull down to freezer temps if you want it to, draws 3.5 to 4 amps and has all the usual bells and whistles such as low battery voltage cut out, etc. Ideal for the smaller boat.
The electric coolers work ok in some circumstances. They work on the "Peltier effect" principle. They will cool to about 20 to 30 degrees below ambient temperature. If you stock them with cold product to begin with, they will keep it cold. If you start with warm product, they will never cool it. We (and others) manufacture these and a much better unit that has a true 12 vdc compressor. It will pull down to freezer temps if you want it to, draws 3.5 to 4 amps and has all the usual bells and whistles such as low battery voltage cut out, etc. Ideal for the smaller boat.
I agree with Bill
The thermoelectric coolers use no moving parts, can be highly durable, but gobble up electrical current. The typical thermoelectric device, when run at "real" (i.e. non vendor-laboratory) conditions will have a COP of roughly 0.5. That's 0.5 Watts of cooling for every 1 Watt of power input. Plus not only do you suffer from high power consumption but now you have got to get rid of the heat generated by the thermoelectric device. The typical vapor-compression device will run to a COP anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5. Do the math - reduce current draw with vapor compression systems. Timothy Sullivan, PE
The thermoelectric coolers use no moving parts, can be highly durable, but gobble up electrical current. The typical thermoelectric device, when run at "real" (i.e. non vendor-laboratory) conditions will have a COP of roughly 0.5. That's 0.5 Watts of cooling for every 1 Watt of power input. Plus not only do you suffer from high power consumption but now you have got to get rid of the heat generated by the thermoelectric device. The typical vapor-compression device will run to a COP anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5. Do the math - reduce current draw with vapor compression systems. Timothy Sullivan, PE
supercool
On the other hand, the Supercool units, made in Sweden, draw only about 1.5 amps (measured), have two little fans, and draw cool air from the bilge to cool the heat sink. The ducting is standard 4" stuff you would use for a dryer. On my boat, the exhaust goes into the cabinet under the sink, helping dry things like pots and pans. The original fans, very easy to replace, would last almost exactly two years. The new ones are supposed to go four times as long. Mine have about six years on them, so far. I live aboard, by the way, so the refer is in constant use. I have been using this system since 1986, and it is very economical and reliable. The little unit, good for up to a four foot box, reasonably well insulated, is an easy install, and is as close to a no-maintenance unit as you will find. It is not a freezer, but it is a refrigerator.
On the other hand, the Supercool units, made in Sweden, draw only about 1.5 amps (measured), have two little fans, and draw cool air from the bilge to cool the heat sink. The ducting is standard 4" stuff you would use for a dryer. On my boat, the exhaust goes into the cabinet under the sink, helping dry things like pots and pans. The original fans, very easy to replace, would last almost exactly two years. The new ones are supposed to go four times as long. Mine have about six years on them, so far. I live aboard, by the way, so the refer is in constant use. I have been using this system since 1986, and it is very economical and reliable. The little unit, good for up to a four foot box, reasonably well insulated, is an easy install, and is as close to a no-maintenance unit as you will find. It is not a freezer, but it is a refrigerator.
addendum
The Supercool unit I wrote about is a Peltier effect unit, and it does cool things down that were warm. And, it worked in California and now in Mexico. Probably works because the heat sink side is cooled by the cooler bilge air. On the other hand, you could just get one of those small refrigerators so common in college dorms, and an inverter!
The Supercool unit I wrote about is a Peltier effect unit, and it does cool things down that were warm. And, it worked in California and now in Mexico. Probably works because the heat sink side is cooled by the cooler bilge air. On the other hand, you could just get one of those small refrigerators so common in college dorms, and an inverter!
- Status