Hi, I am looking for any and all advice I can get on getting to all the hull bottom on my Venture 17 that is currently sitting on a typical 2 bunk trailer. I have all sorts of jacks but I want to be very careful that I do not put too much weight on any on part or parts of the hull or fixtures. What I have come up with which gets me to almost all of the bottom is using an engine lift with a 4 inch heavy duty strap. As I hope to show in a picture in this message.
Need advice on lifting boat to paint
- Thread starter sasjzl
- Start date
If you use that hoist, move the strap forward maybe 5 inches. Tie it to the cleats so it does not slip off.
I've read that some boats can be lifted by their chain plates. Never tried it but if it works, you'd have access to the whole bottom. Think I'd still want some kind of backup under there before I went underneath.
I would prefer to remove the trailer entirely for easier access when painting or sanding. Move the boat so the front is near a tree or between two trees...where you can construct a support bracket. You need to do this because the cherry picker will block the trailer's movement. Use the cherry picker to lift the front end up and secure to the bracket.... move the cherry picker to the rear and set up the way you've pictured.... build a strong sawhorse type cradle to support the back end. Remove the trailer. Move the lift back to the front and install a similar cradle as the rear. Now you can use the engine lift to raise the boat to allow you to move the cradle supports as needed to paint obstructed areas..
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Hello sasjzl,
I have used both methods on trailer boats. Caution is the password! Devise a "failsafe" system that will prevent the hull from moving/slipping/falling while you are under the hull painting. Using a long handle for the roller might be wise too. I like TSBB 2's method. Blocks between the trailer bunks and the hull would stop a fall. Finally, be sure your health insurance and life insurance are paid up and that they cover this type of activity. RE: life insurance.....don't let any of the named beneficiaries near the project! Stay safe.
I have used both methods on trailer boats. Caution is the password! Devise a "failsafe" system that will prevent the hull from moving/slipping/falling while you are under the hull painting. Using a long handle for the roller might be wise too. I like TSBB 2's method. Blocks between the trailer bunks and the hull would stop a fall. Finally, be sure your health insurance and life insurance are paid up and that they cover this type of activity. RE: life insurance.....don't let any of the named beneficiaries near the project! Stay safe.
When you start sanding, you are going to shake that boat. You better move that strap forward and use boards on both sides as shown in TBBS 2's photo.
Also place a support system made out of strong lumber at the stern under that strap, in case it gives way. Good luck. I painted the bottom of our boat on a trailer last year, a 2900 pound boat.
I documented it on my restoration blog. Here is the link, If you are interested. I used 100 percent acrylic paint. https://sailboatprojectorbust.wordpress.com/
Also place a support system made out of strong lumber at the stern under that strap, in case it gives way. Good luck. I painted the bottom of our boat on a trailer last year, a 2900 pound boat.
I documented it on my restoration blog. Here is the link, If you are interested. I used 100 percent acrylic paint. https://sailboatprojectorbust.wordpress.com/
You might want to consider placing a large sheet of Visqueen under the boat to catch the stuff you take off during sanding or power washing. If the current bottom paint has copper in it, it is better to capture the residue on plastic. That is what I did. I made a low spot off to one side covered with plastic as the drain off spot. I used a sump pump there to capture the toxic runoff when power washing. We have a water well, and I did not want the toxic copper residue to enter the ground water, which it will over time, if left on the ground. Also you walk there and it might get on your shoes or kids' shoes.
A local hazard waste collection site will take the collected run off as well as the sheet of plastic after you are finished, and it has dried. Just a suggestion.
A local hazard waste collection site will take the collected run off as well as the sheet of plastic after you are finished, and it has dried. Just a suggestion.
The way I used to do our Hunter 23.5, when we had it. Drop the nose of the trailer all the way down to the ground. Put 2 flat power boat stands up under the stern of the boat. Jack up the nose of the trailer and block it. This lifts the stern of the boat off the bunks. Jack the bow of the boat off the trailer and block it. Trailer's still in the way kind of, but you can work around it, and it got the boat high enough to get to most of the swing keel. I also pulled the bunks off, one side at a time, for better access.
The cherry picker looks to me like an accident waiting to happen.
The cherry picker looks to me like an accident waiting to happen.
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Build a crib or stack pallets under the stern and lower the boat on to it. Move your crane to side of the bow and lift it off the trailer and carefully pull the trailer out from under boat from the side away from crane. Place pallets or crates under the bow for safety as you work and change crane positions. The trailer can be moved by hand.
As pointed out, move that strap forward and secure that strap so it cannot slip out from beneath the boat. Although you think weight may not be a factor, it is and do not let others think it is not. As a former investigator and sailboat dealer, I have seen too much aftermath with injury and even death, so exercise good judgement and when around the boat going that route, suggest a second person be with you in the event that something should give. Even with a travel lift, there were always two people when taking off or putting on and setting stands.
Drop the trailer tongue as low as you can. Put a stand under the stern, or run the lift strap forward around the keel and back to the lift, or put a cradle under the stern. The further forward you can place the stand or the cradle, the better. Then, raise the trailer tongue. As you raise the trailer tongue, the boat will rest between the rear stand/strap/cradle and the bow roller on the trailer. I have used all three methods. Unless you have a cradle already made, a stand or a strap are easier.
I would use a stand or cradle. Straps can break. If properly supported, you can climb under there and strip and paint or work on the keel bolts.
If that boat falls on you, a second person will only be a witness to your death... no one will lift that boat til after the damage is done.
Lift, support, lower.
I would use a stand or cradle. Straps can break. If properly supported, you can climb under there and strip and paint or work on the keel bolts.
If that boat falls on you, a second person will only be a witness to your death... no one will lift that boat til after the damage is done.
Lift, support, lower.
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