Need a float switch recommendation.

Menestheus · Mar 17, 2011

i just bought a johnson ...so far no problem

Steve Dion · Mar 17, 2011

Take a look at the WEMA float switch.

www.wemausa.com

I think that the Ultra Junior is another quality unit.

RAD · Mar 17, 2011

I think I have a Water Witch electronic bilge switch thats been doing fine for a couple of seasons so far , before that I was going through conventional switch's every year

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|84462|316439&id=157603

CarlN · Mar 17, 2011

On my last boat, I had my best results with the Ultra Pump switch from the guys who make Tef-gel. Not cheap.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor

On the current boat I have one of the Johnson Ultima switches. Very happy and I've heard good things. Quite a bit cheaper than the Ultra.

Years ago I had a waterwitch that failed right around two years. Worse, it failed "on" and drained the battery (come to think of it, failed "off" could have worse results). Over the years, several other people told me they had the same problem. Waterwitch may have updated the design by now.

Carl

Rich Stidger · Mar 17, 2011

I must live right. And believe me that is an amazing revelation. I am using a Rule float switch on my pump for the last 13 years and a Black Max switch on a second higher level to activate an alarm. I have never had a switch failure.

Oh heck, now I've gone and done it. I am now probably jinxed.

Anyway thinking outside the box, how about a standard home sump pump switch? The ones with the vertical float are all sealed and are adjustable for turn on and turn off depth and they just have a set of contacts for closure. I've seen them for about $45 which is pretty expensive IMHO, but maybe they can be had for a lower price?

sailaway78 · Mar 17, 2011

Float Switch

For me the Rule is a very poor second choice. I have had very good success with the water witch electronic. Have never had Rule last more than a couple of years.

JoeD · Mar 17, 2011

Got tired of replacing float switches. Look at a Water Witch, It is solid state and no moving parts, Can mount it as low or high as you need it. Has been on my boat for six years and has never failed. About $31.00 from Defender. Maybe Phil has them here never looked. Always look here first.

He is a great guy.

Joe

RAD · Mar 17, 2011

Ed Schenck said:
Interesting RAD, thanks. It is only 1 5/8" high. Did you have to shim under it? With my keel-stepped mast I always have about 1/2" of flow back. It might never shut off.

I have a keel centerboard and that bilge is narrow and deep so I ty wrapped it to a piece of 3/4 pvc and screwed the pipe at the top where is was easy and then was able to adjust the switch by pushing or pulling up or down on the pipe

JoeWhite · Mar 17, 2011

Has anyone tried to see why a switch fails. I would think it is due to peak current - usually arcing when it turns off. This can burn the contacts. To avoid this I would wire an external relay with very large contacts and let the bilge switch turn on and off the relay coil - then let the contacts of the external relay turn the pump on and off. This will definitely extend the life of the switch.

WayneH · Mar 18, 2011

The Defender and SBO Water Witches are different animals. Defender's Water witch 230 only starts and stops the bilge pump. SBO's Water Witch 257 has a secondary output that can sound an alarm if the pump runs for 2 minutes or start a secondary pump at that time. I can see where if you have a lot of water to pump out you might get the alarm but wouldn't that be a good thing?

http://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html

joker460 · Mar 18, 2011

I've become disillusioned by some of the switches on the market and decided to construct a non contact bildge switch and control module. The switch is based on the non contact level sensor used with the Scad tank level sensor. This item can be bought just about anywhere and can be cut down to 6" which works in my application.The control module has a LCD display to allow selection of pump trigger point, on /off time of pump and pump on counts. The relay used to switch pump is an automotive 12volt 40 amp contacts. I will report back how it works out if anyone shows any interest.This is a DIY project.

jibes138 · Mar 18, 2011

RUle makes two different switches. The regular one that won't shut off consistently resulting in drained batteries and burned out pumps. And then they make the "superswitch that actually works. I have the latter and am happy with it, in use for maybe 16 years. I have tried the former and been disgusted.

Roger Long · Mar 18, 2011

jibes138 said:
RUle makes two different switches. The regular one that won't shut off consistently resulting in drained batteries and burned out pumps.

I've had exactly the same experience. I have two. One only shuts off after you whack it and bang it. It's still in the boat because it's on my pair of emergency pumps that won't go on except in a major flooding emergency when I won't care if it shuts off. It's amazing that they sell these switches, continue to sell them, and that there has never been a recall or lawsuit. I would never buy another Rule product because of their record on these. My first two Rule pumps lasted just two seasons when they were in regular bilge service. They work fine though when kept dry and not used. I test them occasionally by lifting the float switches. Someday, I'll replace them with another make.

I've had reasonably good service from the Atwood Sahara S750 pump with built in float switch. However, the S500 in the same case is suitable only for direct transom discharge in small boats where there is no significant lift involved. My Sahara handles all sink and shower drain along with condensation and other small water accumulations.

Need a float switch recommendation.

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