As soon as I let go of the tiller, she turns on me....Is there something out there (besides my foot) to help keep her on track? Thanks
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A piece of line can do the trick
When I had a MacGregor 25 I used to tie a line to the port and starboard cleats, with a loop around the tiller. If you keep it tight enough it will hold the tiller in place and even allow you to make minor port/starboard adjustments. I'm not sure if there are cleats well situated on the Hunter 17, but perhaps you can rig something.
When I had a MacGregor 25 I used to tie a line to the port and starboard cleats, with a loop around the tiller. If you keep it tight enough it will hold the tiller in place and even allow you to make minor port/starboard adjustments. I'm not sure if there are cleats well situated on the Hunter 17, but perhaps you can rig something.
Roger, I have owned a tiller tamer and had to
rebuild it the second day out. The Davis tiller tamer is cheap plastic. I ended up designing and making my own. This is the best thing that I have found mass produced. http://www.tillermate.com/ This is better than the one I made but has much room for improvement. It still looks like a better design than the Davis. This one doesn't look like it would jam-up like the Davis. r.w.landau
rebuild it the second day out. The Davis tiller tamer is cheap plastic. I ended up designing and making my own. This is the best thing that I have found mass produced. http://www.tillermate.com/ This is better than the one I made but has much room for improvement. It still looks like a better design than the Davis. This one doesn't look like it would jam-up like the Davis. r.w.landau
Ross, Dan, The line doesn't give the freedom,
to move to the bow and come back and make a correction in tight situations. I use my tiller damper when docking singlehanded or going forward or jsut a run to the head. When I get back to the tiller, I don't want something I have to mess with. Tiller controls ( want to call them tamers but it is like zerox, or kleenex) are a constant dampening of the tiller that if you let your hand off of it the tiller stays put. I would hate to sail with out a tiller damper. r.w.landau
to move to the bow and come back and make a correction in tight situations. I use my tiller damper when docking singlehanded or going forward or jsut a run to the head. When I get back to the tiller, I don't want something I have to mess with. Tiller controls ( want to call them tamers but it is like zerox, or kleenex) are a constant dampening of the tiller that if you let your hand off of it the tiller stays put. I would hate to sail with out a tiller damper. r.w.landau
Ross, probably but the freedom is worth
making or buying a damper. The rigging is out of the way. When I bought my first boat, I tried lines and hitches, and bungees. Infact my second experience with the Davis tiller tamer was almost expensive. The tamer jammed as I was docking. I am glad that I had slip knots on the control line. Ross, With a damper control that is attached and reliable, it is just much easier sailing with a tiller. r.w.landau
making or buying a damper. The rigging is out of the way. When I bought my first boat, I tried lines and hitches, and bungees. Infact my second experience with the Davis tiller tamer was almost expensive. The tamer jammed as I was docking. I am glad that I had slip knots on the control line. Ross, With a damper control that is attached and reliable, it is just much easier sailing with a tiller. r.w.landau
Easy
Use a tiller extension. It can serve 2 purposes, 1: as a tiller extension
2: as a tiller lock. Just install a lock block into the side of your cockpit. You can also adjust the position during sail for cruising. No complexity, lines, service, breaking. Here: http://www.forespar.com/onlineCatalog/2007/Sailboat/26sailing_tillerExtensions2007.shtml
Use a tiller extension. It can serve 2 purposes, 1: as a tiller extension
2: as a tiller lock. Just install a lock block into the side of your cockpit. You can also adjust the position during sail for cruising. No complexity, lines, service, breaking. Here: http://www.forespar.com/onlineCatalog/2007/Sailboat/26sailing_tillerExtensions2007.shtml
Jeff, I don't like using an extension.
I like the tiller and the direct connection to the rudder. That extra extension is cumbersome to me... It still looks like it would limit tiller movement to the locked side. Just my thoughts... r.w.landau
I like the tiller and the direct connection to the rudder. That extra extension is cumbersome to me... It still looks like it would limit tiller movement to the locked side. Just my thoughts... r.w.landau
balance the boat.....
....you are poorly trimmed if your boat heads up hard every time you release the tiller. Flatten the main or let it out..it's overpowering you, try getting more power to the jib by adjusting the lead block and halyard, sit on the weather rail or experiment with your ballast(aka crew) placement, make sure your rudder is fully extended.... do what ever you can to get the boat balanced better. Small boats are very responsive to weight placement, you can easily turn a dinghy just by changing crew position. Learn about that by reading up on small boat handling. Then....... buy a tiller extension... I don't care what RW says, you need to have one so you can move around the cockpit... to balance the boat, btw. Then try some of the techniqes mentioned here so far. Ross' suggestion is the cheapest and will work fine if the rig is balanced. Even if you lock the tiller, the boat will not hold course until you have balanced the rig and adjusted the ballast.
....you are poorly trimmed if your boat heads up hard every time you release the tiller. Flatten the main or let it out..it's overpowering you, try getting more power to the jib by adjusting the lead block and halyard, sit on the weather rail or experiment with your ballast(aka crew) placement, make sure your rudder is fully extended.... do what ever you can to get the boat balanced better. Small boats are very responsive to weight placement, you can easily turn a dinghy just by changing crew position. Learn about that by reading up on small boat handling. Then....... buy a tiller extension... I don't care what RW says, you need to have one so you can move around the cockpit... to balance the boat, btw. Then try some of the techniqes mentioned here so far. Ross' suggestion is the cheapest and will work fine if the rig is balanced. Even if you lock the tiller, the boat will not hold course until you have balanced the rig and adjusted the ballast.
Joe, I am confused...
Your first paragraph tells how to balance the boat. I don't have a problem with that. Then you say buy a tiller extension. If the boat is balanced, why do you need a tiller extension? The fact is, balanced or not when you take your hand off the tiller, it moves. A dampening device prevents this. For me, it makes sailing with a tiller pleasant. r.w.landau
Your first paragraph tells how to balance the boat. I don't have a problem with that. Then you say buy a tiller extension. If the boat is balanced, why do you need a tiller extension? The fact is, balanced or not when you take your hand off the tiller, it moves. A dampening device prevents this. For me, it makes sailing with a tiller pleasant. r.w.landau
ALL these guys have good points
Roger, The tiller extension is great if you plan to be hiking out (this is a 17' boat and you may want a thrill ride). The tiller tamer (Davis, line w/clove hitch, etc) is reasonably functional and easy to use (I've never had a Davis jam on me but this is a concern). Its drawback is the lines run to each side get in the way if you have others in the boat. The tiller dampner is easy to use and out-of-the-way but I suspect more expensive to install than the other options. HOWEVER!!!!! First you must get comfortable balancing your sails and weight. I teach my students that we can sail the boat without a rudder just by using the sails. Balancing the boat will make you a better and "safer" sailor AND it will make whatever mechanical systems you choose work better. Good luck and have fun, Jim
Roger, The tiller extension is great if you plan to be hiking out (this is a 17' boat and you may want a thrill ride). The tiller tamer (Davis, line w/clove hitch, etc) is reasonably functional and easy to use (I've never had a Davis jam on me but this is a concern). Its drawback is the lines run to each side get in the way if you have others in the boat. The tiller dampner is easy to use and out-of-the-way but I suspect more expensive to install than the other options. HOWEVER!!!!! First you must get comfortable balancing your sails and weight. I teach my students that we can sail the boat without a rudder just by using the sails. Balancing the boat will make you a better and "safer" sailor AND it will make whatever mechanical systems you choose work better. Good luck and have fun, Jim
Tie it off - Works for the Pardy's
Used to work for me on my Catalina 25. I have also seen where the Pardy's do the same thing when they sail. They have no power or engine in their boat.
Used to work for me on my Catalina 25. I have also seen where the Pardy's do the same thing when they sail. They have no power or engine in their boat.
Looks Like it will be Hard
Some boats by their design need constant steering. The Hunter 17 looks like one of those boats. I had a Chyrsler Bucaneer 18 that needed constant attention. Same with my Laser. A fin keel and spade rudder teamed with a high aspect sail is a perfect recipe for a fun fast small boat. But it is also a recipe for a boat that needs attention. My Macgregor 26 was simular. I could tie the helm for a few minutes on some points of sail but the boat needed a lot of attention. My Pearson is better and will sail itself into the wind once trimed. But off the wind it doesn't hold a course well and needs attention. Generally going into the wind a boat can be trimed to hold course but so far I've never had a boat that would hold a course downwind. Even upwind in a sloop you have to balance the jib and main before locking the helm.
Some boats by their design need constant steering. The Hunter 17 looks like one of those boats. I had a Chyrsler Bucaneer 18 that needed constant attention. Same with my Laser. A fin keel and spade rudder teamed with a high aspect sail is a perfect recipe for a fun fast small boat. But it is also a recipe for a boat that needs attention. My Macgregor 26 was simular. I could tie the helm for a few minutes on some points of sail but the boat needed a lot of attention. My Pearson is better and will sail itself into the wind once trimed. But off the wind it doesn't hold a course well and needs attention. Generally going into the wind a boat can be trimed to hold course but so far I've never had a boat that would hold a course downwind. Even upwind in a sloop you have to balance the jib and main before locking the helm.
Too small for a tiller pilot?
I found a used raymarine st1000 on ebay for $150...She'll steer a heading all day for you....Or .10 cents for a piece of line Simplicity is a beautiful thing. Go with a piece of line and save the eqt chase for the bigger boat which is just around the proverbial corner. Just a thought. Have fun. Michael
I found a used raymarine st1000 on ebay for $150...She'll steer a heading all day for you....Or .10 cents for a piece of line
Simplicity is a beautiful thing. Go with a piece of line and save the eqt chase for the bigger boat which is just around the proverbial corner. Just a thought. Have fun. MichaelR.W
R.W, I like the tiller in hand too for the same reasons. Feels better, more steering power, faster response, etc. However, the poster's concern is when he leaves the cockpit or needs to go somewhere else in the cockpit (am guessing to trim, etc). This is where the extensionlock comes in handy. (different subject)With experience and a balanced boat, you can also cruise with it. Position the rudder slightly against the tack. The boat will yaw back and forth (come up, fall back) some but will stay on course for a reasonable amount of time.
R.W, I like the tiller in hand too for the same reasons. Feels better, more steering power, faster response, etc. However, the poster's concern is when he leaves the cockpit or needs to go somewhere else in the cockpit (am guessing to trim, etc). This is where the extensionlock comes in handy. (different subject)With experience and a balanced boat, you can also cruise with it. Position the rudder slightly against the tack. The boat will yaw back and forth (come up, fall back) some but will stay on course for a reasonable amount of time.
Tiller Tamer & Sail Trim
I have a C&C 27 and I use a Tiller Tamer...they are cheap, easy to install and use. I do have an autopilot and that works well. But if it is a nice day and I am having fun steering the boat and just want a fast break, the tiller tamer is the way to go. You can get them for about $15.00 if you look around. They other thing I would say is if you are getting a fast turn, play with your sail trim. If your sails are balanced you should not be getting much of a turn at all.
I have a C&C 27 and I use a Tiller Tamer...they are cheap, easy to install and use. I do have an autopilot and that works well. But if it is a nice day and I am having fun steering the boat and just want a fast break, the tiller tamer is the way to go. You can get them for about $15.00 if you look around. They other thing I would say is if you are getting a fast turn, play with your sail trim. If your sails are balanced you should not be getting much of a turn at all.
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