Mystic

[PM2KB]

Hello Fellow Hunter Owners,

Recently we purchased a Hunter 26 Water Ballast sailboat. We love the boat but have had a few difficulties and could use a bit of assistance.

First, we are having some difficulties with water accumulating in the boat during heavy downpours. The bilge pump did not appear to work properly and water collected iin various areas of the inside of the boat. In an attempt to soder wires to reconnect the bilge wires, we noted the wires continued to get very hot. Is there some type of special wiring on this boat that would cause this? The bilge pump appears to be located in an area above where the water collected. Is there an easy solution to relocatiing the bilge pump where it might be more effective?

The sealed windows appear to have some leakage. Can anyone provide instuction on how to re-seat these areas?

Next, we are considering a self furler, but are confused as to which product would best suit the boat and our needs. We are casual sailers on a small lake.

Any thoughts or advice on the above would be highly appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Hopeful Rookie]

What year is your H26?

The hot wire sounds like its shorting somewhere, I have not seen anything special with the wiring on ours.

Have traced the water to the windows or is it coming from somewhere else?

I'm sure you will get alot of help here.

Welcome

 

[Juice6576]

Some water source issues

I have not heard of side window leakage on a H26. The opening side ports can leak, especially if the gaskets are dried out or the hatch ears are cracked. Another source is the large pop top hatch. The screws that hold the strips of teak that make up the handles and stop can work loose and allow water to leak. I always checked them every year and periodically during the season. A lot of guys had good luck with a companionway hatch cover. Another water source is the dried out seal on the ballast tank vent.
As for your furler, I purchased a CDI flexible Furler for our 26. They used to specify a FF3-H26 which was a special model for the H26. We had it on our boat for 14 years, its a simple design, relatively bulletproof and requiries minimal maintenance. It's also relatively inexpensive. If you are keeping your boat in the water, a furler makes a lot of sense. If you are going to be trailering, the furler is more of a hassle and probably not worth the effort. If you do go with the CDI, you will need to cut your forestay shorter to make room for the furler drum. Iactually had our dealer do the installation. The hank on jib can be modified per CDI's direction. Ours worked for 11 years, but a purpose cut jib works a lot better.

 

[cephius (Dave)]

CDI

A CDI furler was provided by the dealer when I got my boat new. Here is a working link to this site's store page: http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail-cdi.htm

I always found half a bucket of rain water in my cabin until I got the hatch cover. Also available on this site, in the canvas shop; http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail.htm?group=203 I use a swimming pool noodle under it to keep the rain from pooling.

 

[Dan Hill]

I'll second ( or third ) the CDI furler system. Have one on our 2000 H240 and it works flawlessly. I reside within a couple miles of their headquarters but have never been there, whats that say. Ours is the FF2 model. Im considering one for our recently acquired 28.5, not looking forward to hanking on sails again.

 

[Kivalo]

I'll 3rd (or 4th) the CDI Flexi-furl. I have had one installed on my boat since new and its been flawless.

Brad
s/v KIVALO

 

[MLampner]

Like the others I agree the CDI is great. I have only one minor complaint with it and that is taking down or putting on the sail. Since we are cruisers not racers it only happens a couple of times a season if we expect a hurricane other than that once a season in each direction is easily lived with.

Make sure you get it with the ball bearings. It's made single handing my older 30 a pleasure.

 

[cephius (Dave)]

At the end of the season my boat comes out of the water and onto the trailer. The mast comes down. I store the CDI Flexi with the sail on. I just make a big 3' loop and lash it with the sheets. This then fits on the cabin floor.

I have removed the sail for cleaning and repairs. I agree it is an effort. I always suspected that if I did it more ofter, things would loosen up and it would get easier.

 

[John23883]

Keep the water out

The key thing is to keep the water from getting in and then work on the bilge pump. Leaking side ports can be fixed by first removing the gasket material and then installing new material. It was imposible for me to find gasket material narrow enough to fit in the groove so I bought wider and slit it to fit. It's a pain to install but can be done. The bulk of my rainwater intrusion came through the cabin hatch boards so I installed the metal strips that you use between flooring but first used double sided foam tape to stick them in place and prevent water from leaking underneath. Attached are pictures. Once I installed these, I never had water in the boat again. This is much cheaper than using the canvas cover. The opening side ports just dripped a little until I fixed them.

When the boat is in the water the bilge pump is the low spot so I wouldn't move it. Are the bilge pump wires hot before the pump is turned on? It has a float switch that turns it on when the switch on the fuse panel is in the auto position. Is the switch shorted out? Were the wires cut because it kept blowing fuses?

A jib furler is really a must for those of us that don't want to go up to the bow when the the wind pipes up. I have a Furlex and it works great. Picture attached. I remove the sail and then bungee it to the mast. I have a 4" PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise and then reassembled at the curve. This sits on the bow pulpit withe the mast and furler sitting on it. see attached picture.

I have tons of pictures of upgrades!

 

[JST123]

Your wiring issue could be one of two problems. High resistance = heat, a short to ground will cause an excessive current draw that the wire cannot handle. The direct short should pop the circut breaker or blow the fuse which ever you have installed. the high resistance should do the same by not as quickly. the best solution is to just run new wires for your pump and ensure it is properly protect by either a fuse or breaker.

Good luck!!