My electrical system died.

Tom J · Mar 2, 2013

Start with at least one fresh battery. Hook up the positive terminal first. Then hook up the ground terminal, but watch closely for any arcing from the battery terminal to the cable as you touch the two together. Any arcing would indicate a short or a high amperage load in the system. It's possible that a high load that the solar panels couldn't keep up with killed the batteries. It's also possible that one of the batteries was bad, and pulled the whole system down, killing the other battery.
You mentioned that the panel was dead when you got on the boat. If it was left on since October, that could be a problem. Normally, it's a good idea to shut off the battery switch when leaving the boat for an extended period. The panel and everything connected to it would be off, but the panels would still be charging the batteries.

Tom J · Mar 2, 2013

I meant the solar panels would still be charging.

walt · Mar 3, 2013

A couple things (assuming you had everything hooked up correctly and loads turned off while not at the boat).

Flynfoil who post here sometimes once told a "story" about a solar battery charging system on a hideout home. Flynfoil, please correct this story if there is anything not correct. In his case, he had snow buildup on the panels for a fairly long time and the MPPT controller has a sleep mode when its not generating power but the sleep mode current is still relatively high compared to the simpler controllers. During the snow blockout, the batteries discharged. Apparently some of those controllers have to see some minimum battery voltage in order to "wake up" and start charging again and if the battery gets below some voltage, they don’t wake up, just sit there drained. You’re in Houston so not likely to have snow but I brought that up anyhow.

Another story.. I used to charge two 12 volt group 27 batteries in parallel with a 20 watt panel and a PPM solar charge controller. I would let this system go for too long without checking the battery water and when I would check the water, one battery would be near empty and the second battery would be just about full. I believe there some sort of run-away feedback mechanism in the case of parallel batteries where if one battery has its water level go below the top of the plates, that battery will have its water loss accelerated. I had this happen just a few times and both batteries wore out early but the one which always needed lots of water was really trashed.

This is the reason that when I replaced these batteries, I went to two six volt golf cart batteries in series. By definition, the charging current is exactly the same in both batteries no matter what and this particular problem went away.

So... if you check the battery water level, are the batteries low on water? Is one battery very low and the other not low?

FYI, I think your batteries may be trashed but maybe you can put them on a seperate charger and get the battery voltage back up in the 12 volt range and then hook it up to the BlueSky controller and see if it now operates.

Tom J · Mar 3, 2013

Sounds good. Best of luck, and have fun!

Maine Sail · Mar 3, 2013

doehunter said:
Hey guys.
Early this morning, I pulled both batteries and inspected them. One had 3 cells that were dry. The other looked good. I added water and tried charging both batteries. I didn't really wait very long but it looked like they weren't responding very well so I just bought 2 new batteries. THIS time, they're both the same group 27 batteries. The old ones were a 27 and a 31, and different ages. ( and one wasn't sitting level.
When I connected the 1st one, it sparked a little, so I backed off and connected it through my amp meter and saw about 2 amps. HMMM! then I noticed the cabin light was on! I made sure everything was off and reconnected and there was no amp draw.
Everything went back to working like it was last year. The charge controller came right up. I was playing the radio (4 largish speakers) kinda loud and still putting in 4 amps from the solar panels! (100 watts)
So, I learned a couple of lessons. I guess the biggest one is to check the batteries periodically, mount them level, and use 2 identical ones.
I moved things around a bit. Now the 2 batteries are in boxes, and sitting side by side under the V berth.. Easy to get to, and leaves the area under the galley free to be used for storage. Maybe one more long weekend of work left and I'll ready for the water.

Make sure the "automatic equalization" feature on the controller is TURNED OFF.......

This is one reason I don't like leaving solar unattended. These controllers are "smart" and correctly won't charge into a battery with low voltage. Unfortunately if the panels become occluded for a period of time the bank can be sucked below the safe "on" voltage of the controller and then you're toast. Add on top of that an "auto equalize" feature and you can really destroy a bank quickly....

onecoolair · Mar 4, 2013

doehunter said:
A question to those with 26S boats,
When I was putting my batteries in the V berth, I noticed the top of the ballast tank is a bit flexible there, and I was a little concerned about the weight of 2, group 27 batteries sitting there,
I did not build in any floor, they are simply in boxes and sitting on top of the ballast tank. They are tied to the aft wall with just eye bolts and rope for now. I intended to make an aluminum strap to replace the rope but I'm wondering about the strength of the floor in there.
Has anyone experienced problems from doing that?

This was the same on my 91 m26s ... Some Flexing is normal.... I also had a clear access port into the water Ballast tank just forward of batteries so I could reach in and goop down the puck antenna to the hull for my humming bird. To mount the battery boxes I glued down two 2x2 wood strips all the way across from port side to starboard. Then I was able to screw down the boxes . I also strapped the boxes to the bulkhead same as you. Btw... Don't forget some weep holes in the wood strips and make sure access plate is properly seated so you get no leaks from ballast tank.

onecoolair · Mar 4, 2013

doehunter said:
Hmm,
Mine's a '93 and there's no access hole in there. I have one in the hallway next to the galley and one underneath the galley. My transducer is in the lazerette.
It sounds like a good idea with the 2x2's. I'm not sure I understand about the holes. Did you mean to give water a way to flow through?
"week holes"

I put the access plate there.

Because I wanted to Goop the antenna to the inside of hull for the hummingbird in that location. Weep holes in the wood stiffeners was so any water under the v-birth and on top of the water ballast tank can then flow to the port or the starboard bilge.

BTW....I used 3M 5200 hundred to glue the wood stiffeners down...

Sumner · Mar 5, 2013

onecoolair said:
I put the access plate there. Because I wanted to Goop the antenna to the inside of hull for the hummingbird in that location. .

Interesting. Our transducer is just ahead of the tank at an angle so might like to do this and also like having access to the tank for possible zebra mussel cleaning.

How did you exit the transducer cable out of the tank and seal that? Thanks,

Sum

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finding41 · Mar 5, 2013

Sumner said:
Interesting. Our transducer is just ahead of the tank at an angle so might like to do this and also like having access to the tank for possible zebra mussel cleaning.

How did you exit the transducer cable out of the tank and seal that? Thanks,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

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Hey Sumner I had my boat in a lake full of zebra mussels and didn't have any attach to anything on my hull. (I bottom painted on the trailer and had whit strips of bare hull) I also felt around the inlet after I hauled out for the winter. Nothing...
I did put crushed pool chlorine pucks in my ballast. One every mo. smelt clean when I hauled out. Here is what the water looked like for at last 2 mo last year.

finding41 · Mar 5, 2013

I forgot to mention that if one puts cement in the front of there ballast tank it stiffens that area up considerably!
That may just be in my case with my farrow cement ballast....
Oh those rusty bolts keep the chunk-O cement from moving.

Why. I'll never know.

Please don't attempt this modification without sane supervision!

onecoolair · Mar 5, 2013

exit the transducer cable out of the tank

Sumner said:
Interesting. Our transducer is just ahead of the tank at an angle so might like to do this and also like having access to the tank for possible zebra mussel cleaning.

How did you exit the transducer cable out of the tank and seal that? Thanks,

Sum

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Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

Sum....Cut the hole for the access plate. Then notch out a small slot just wide enough for cable and long enough to go past trim ring of access plate fitting. Then bolt plate trim ring in place with your choice of caulking sealant. I believe I used 5200...Yes I know

....Make sure access plate trim is installed true with no twisting. Make sure to have good rubber o-ring. Do not cross thread....Do not over or under tighten. If done right it should not leak. Hint if it still leaks a bit .....lay a bead of goop on top of the cap.... Not on the threads but on top of the cap plate once it is screwed into place. The goop should not damage the plastic and not become permanent. It should just peel off if needing to unscrew plate.

Sumner · Mar 6, 2013

onecoolair said:
Sum....Cut the hole for the access plate. Then notch out a small slot just wide enough for cable and long enough to go past trim ring of access plate fitting. Then bolt plate trim ring in place with your choice of caulking sealant. I believe I used 5200...Yes I know ....Make sure access plate trim is installed true with no twisting. Make sure to have good rubber o-ring. Do not cross thread....Do not over or under tighten. If done right it should not leak. Hint if it still leaks a bit .....lay a bead of goop on top of the cap.... Not on the threads but on top of the cap plate once it is screwed into place. The goop should not damage the plastic and not become permanent. It should just peel off if needing to unscrew plate.

Thanks

Sum

flynfol · Mar 7, 2013

Walt remembered most of the "story" correctly. I also had the phantom loads from the inverter and the home brew desulfator drawing the batteries down. Other than the solar panel angle snafu that year, and adding water twice a year, this system has been relatively autonomous and trouble free. Batteries are at the end of useful service in their eleventh year. Now if the Lake level will only come back up..........I post from an IPad, where none of my pictures reside, so you will have to use your imagination........ or without pics, maybe it is just a story.

walt · Mar 8, 2013

Glad I remembered "most of the story correctly". I’m fairly certain my wife remembers a lot of stuff that actually never happened. When I first read "home brew", I thought OH NO!!! Not a problem with the home brew.. Relieved to see it was just a home brew circuit. My Bluesky MPPT controller has now worked 10 years, just cranks away everyday, its held up much better than I have.

Sumner, hope you and Ruth have a great time in Florida!!!

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