I have moved from a marina to open water just off the intracoastal in Central Florida. I am currently on a Bahamian moor but want to install a permanent mooring system. I have looked at Anne's Mushroom anchors and the Helix system as candidates for a secure mooring and talked to both companies. The Helix looks great but is quite expensive and I know that the mushroom anchors are extensively used up North. I would appreciate some feed-back from those who have first hand knowledge on the mushroom system; size, worst conditions encountered, etc... good and bad and opinions of which way to go. I am in about 10' of water, no tide, good sand and mud bottom but have quite a bit of fetch for the wind to build out of the Southeast and Northeast. Not to mention Hurricanes. Thanks for your inputs Tom Hadoulias Hunter 37C, S/V Lite Chop
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Debo Cox
The thang...
Hi Tom, I put in a permanant mooring using an Anne's mushroom anchor like you're describing in front of my house on the Pamlico River in North Carolina. It too was in about 10 feet of water with a muddy/sandy bottom, with a long fetch. I had great results - mine never budged an inch - even in relatively high winds (50-75 MPH). I never rode out a hurricane on one, but I would expect similar results. IMHO, it's probably one of the better places to be in a hurricane, especially if it's located in a sheltered cove or protected area. Here's what I would suggest: 1. Get a copy of Chapman's Piloting - there is a very clear and concise explanation about the construction of permanant moorings. 2. I used an anchor larger than was suggested in Chapman's for an extra measure of safety. I think within the bounds of good reason, bigger is better. 3. It's not a "set it and forget it" kinda thing. You should frequently check the integrity of everything once it's in the water. Constant wave action is HARD on mechanical components. 4. During your frequent checks, you'll notice that the chain is getting shorter because changes in wind direction are wrapping it around the anchor on the bottom. You should unwrap the chain for maximum scope and so the chain is not bound. 5. Buy high quality components. You're trusting your boat to this thing. It will, at times be the only thing that keeps your boat safe. Don't skimp. 6. Keep a close eye on chafing of all components, not just mooring lines, but everything. You'll be surprised how much constant wave action can saw away at components. 7. ALWAYS use at least 2 mooring pennants. If you run one to the port forward chock/cleat, and one to the starboard forward chock/cleat, it will reduce the amount of "porpoising" back and forth on the mooring. 8. The only drawback I ever found was that my boat was always in motion on the mooring due to wave action, winds, rocking, etc. I thought this was a little hard on the boat, but it's just an opinion. I hope this helps. I'm no expert, but these are things I found out "by the seat of my pants." Adios Debo Cox S/V El Coyote
Hi Tom, I put in a permanant mooring using an Anne's mushroom anchor like you're describing in front of my house on the Pamlico River in North Carolina. It too was in about 10 feet of water with a muddy/sandy bottom, with a long fetch. I had great results - mine never budged an inch - even in relatively high winds (50-75 MPH). I never rode out a hurricane on one, but I would expect similar results. IMHO, it's probably one of the better places to be in a hurricane, especially if it's located in a sheltered cove or protected area. Here's what I would suggest: 1. Get a copy of Chapman's Piloting - there is a very clear and concise explanation about the construction of permanant moorings. 2. I used an anchor larger than was suggested in Chapman's for an extra measure of safety. I think within the bounds of good reason, bigger is better. 3. It's not a "set it and forget it" kinda thing. You should frequently check the integrity of everything once it's in the water. Constant wave action is HARD on mechanical components. 4. During your frequent checks, you'll notice that the chain is getting shorter because changes in wind direction are wrapping it around the anchor on the bottom. You should unwrap the chain for maximum scope and so the chain is not bound. 5. Buy high quality components. You're trusting your boat to this thing. It will, at times be the only thing that keeps your boat safe. Don't skimp. 6. Keep a close eye on chafing of all components, not just mooring lines, but everything. You'll be surprised how much constant wave action can saw away at components. 7. ALWAYS use at least 2 mooring pennants. If you run one to the port forward chock/cleat, and one to the starboard forward chock/cleat, it will reduce the amount of "porpoising" back and forth on the mooring. 8. The only drawback I ever found was that my boat was always in motion on the mooring due to wave action, winds, rocking, etc. I thought this was a little hard on the boat, but it's just an opinion. I hope this helps. I'm no expert, but these are things I found out "by the seat of my pants." Adios Debo Cox S/V El Coyote
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Brent Headberg
Moorings
Hello Tom, I keep my Hunter 335 on a mooring here at the Lake Worth Inlet. I have 5/16 galv chain stretched out in 3 directions with big danforth anchors on each of the 3 ends and a heavier central chain coming up to my mooring buoy. I have been there for 3 1/2 years with no problem, but as others will suggest, it needs inspection to be sure it's in good shape. Sure beats dockage, huh? You can see where we keep our boat at: http://www.elenalua.homestead.com Good Luck, Cap'n Brent S/V Elena Lua 1990 Hunter 335
Hello Tom, I keep my Hunter 335 on a mooring here at the Lake Worth Inlet. I have 5/16 galv chain stretched out in 3 directions with big danforth anchors on each of the 3 ends and a heavier central chain coming up to my mooring buoy. I have been there for 3 1/2 years with no problem, but as others will suggest, it needs inspection to be sure it's in good shape. Sure beats dockage, huh? You can see where we keep our boat at: http://www.elenalua.homestead.com Good Luck, Cap'n Brent S/V Elena Lua 1990 Hunter 335
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Tom Hadoulias
Thanks Guy's...
Appreciate the great info. I do like being moored better than docking, especially when your nearby, but you do worry about the boat more. Tom
Appreciate the great info. I do like being moored better than docking, especially when your nearby, but you do worry about the boat more. Tom
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Dallas Malloy
Another Option
I did you same research you have about a year ago. I came to the realization that mushroom anchors have to be quite heavy in order to have adequate holding power. That means that purchasing the mushroom is only half the battle. I also talked with Helix and was scared away by the price. Then I found something very interesting. You can buy "helix" type anchors at your local heavy electrical supply house. They are used to guy off power poles. I didn't buy the helix rectangular type (which they had in stock at the supply house) because they require a hydraulic drill to install. I instead opted for some large screw anchors that were 5' to 6' long with a 12" screw. They were practically identical to the rectangular anchors only with round shanks. I think I paid $35 per anchor. I filled up my air tanks and installed them myself using a #13 rebar that was about 6' long as a lever. In retrospect I believe that they could have been more easily jetted in with a small water pump and hose. At $35 dollars I installed two. I'm thinking about jetting in a couple more and running a ground chain between them for additional security. So far they've been in for almost a year without budging.
I did you same research you have about a year ago. I came to the realization that mushroom anchors have to be quite heavy in order to have adequate holding power. That means that purchasing the mushroom is only half the battle. I also talked with Helix and was scared away by the price. Then I found something very interesting. You can buy "helix" type anchors at your local heavy electrical supply house. They are used to guy off power poles. I didn't buy the helix rectangular type (which they had in stock at the supply house) because they require a hydraulic drill to install. I instead opted for some large screw anchors that were 5' to 6' long with a 12" screw. They were practically identical to the rectangular anchors only with round shanks. I think I paid $35 per anchor. I filled up my air tanks and installed them myself using a #13 rebar that was about 6' long as a lever. In retrospect I believe that they could have been more easily jetted in with a small water pump and hose. At $35 dollars I installed two. I'm thinking about jetting in a couple more and running a ground chain between them for additional security. So far they've been in for almost a year without budging.
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andy
drop in a 500 lb mushroom
with 25" of 5/8 chain. You can move a mushroom, you are stuck with a helix
with 25" of 5/8 chain. You can move a mushroom, you are stuck with a helix
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Ken Koons
just drop a 500 lb mushroom?
Could someone explain how folks get these monsters out to the mooring field to drop them? I've seen some mooring tenders with cranes - but I definitely can't see this being a do it yourself job.
Could someone explain how folks get these monsters out to the mooring field to drop them? I've seen some mooring tenders with cranes - but I definitely can't see this being a do it yourself job.
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