Muir VRC 500 windlass--removal procedure

[Daedalus]

Hi. I've just purchased an older boat with a seized Muir VRC 500 windlass . I set about trying to remove it for repair or replacement, but ran into a wall. Copied below is the body of an email I have just sent to Muir.

But, given that the windlass is over 20 years old, I don't really expect them to be very helpful. So I'm turning to you all in the hope of some advice on how to remove it.

Regards

D.


copy of mail sent Muir:
______________________

Hi

I recently purchased an early 80's Hunter 37, which has a Muir 'Penguin VRC500' windlass fitted. As the windlass seems to be seized I'm attempting to remove it for repair/replacement, but I've hit a snag ... I have removed everything I can see any way to remove, and now have the main shaft disappearing (from the top) down into what looks like an oil seal, and (from the bottom), up into what looks like a bearing. But there doesn't seem to be anything at either end that I can 'undo' to make the shaft free to withdraw.

I found what appears to be a folder of documents that would have been provided with the windlass when sold new, and it includes your schematic drawing 1110/EX/01 (dated 23/08/93). This shows a key (#10 on the drawing) that might protrude along the shaft from the bottom of the unit, but it is not visible on the unit itself. There was a lump of heavily corroded metal that disintegrated during my early investigation .... ? There is no key visible on the upper end of the shaft.

So, short of taking an angle grinder to the windlass, and/or an axe to my decks, can you please provide any advice on how to remove said unit.

Pictures of the unit in its current state are attached.

Regards

 

[victorhoisington]

Just curious but aren't the four round items on the inside picture allen wrench bolts. I think if you take those off (looks like that could prove challenging) you may find that the parts will separate. You may have to pry on things a little since they are probably bedded but...

Good luck,

 

[Daedalus]

Yes, the do look like allen head bolts, but I think they just hold the halves of the gear case together, and I suspect they'll be a 'cut off' job rather than an 'undo', so I was holding off on those.

But ... it seems I owe Muir an apology. I received a very helpful email tonight, pointing out that the shaft will only go 'up' through the deck plate, whereas I thought it been lifted up into the plate from below, and some other hints. I'll try it out tomorrow.

So ... err, yeah, kudos to Muir for a prompt and helpful reply to a question about a 20 year old unit.

 

[Chris Patterson]

Wow. That IS a good vendor tip. Good on them for the response, regardless..

 

[Daedalus]

OK, so it's been almost a year, and I've been conspicuous by my absence. Sorry 'bout that.

Anyway, thought I'd post the resolution to the windlass drama.

It transpired that the gearbox, keyed onto the shaft below the deck, had seized and fused onto the shaft. The 'grease' in the gearbox was like gritty peanut butter. I guess years of saltwater had seeped into it and set.

So ... the gearbox wasn't coming off the shaft, and the shaft can only go 'up' out through the deck. Removal then involved a large hammer and an angle grinder. Upside down in the chain locker, trying to cut the one inch stainless stell shaft with minimal clearance between the gearbox and the underside of the deck.

No fun at all. I did mange to get through it eventually, with all my fingers still attached. (Angle grinders are just damn scary!)

I was also curious to realise that the windlass had almost certainly never been used. I concluded this when I noticed that no hole had ever been cut through the deck under the chain feed out of the gypsy. So it had probably sat there as a deck ornament for 30 years!

Anyway, it's gone.

I toyed with the motor when I had it extracted, and the motor ran fine. So ... found an old Simpson Lawrence windlass without a motor at Minney's (Ca) and took a chance. Was amazed and delighted that the motor slid straight on, and the bolt holes matched up perfectly.

So I now have a working windlass.

 

[MSter]

Nice !

 

[capta]

There are very few things I have not been able to disassemble over the years with enough patience and PB Blaster. No matter how rusty and corroded, if it's a steel, PB Blaster will loosen it up.
It needs to be sprayed enough to keep it moist, at least three or four times a day for a few days or more. Tapping it with a hammer when spraying it helps. Heat might speed up the process, if it can be done without being a problem for the fiberglass around the windlass, otherwise I wouldn't.
Luckily, you aren't trying to save the windlass, so you can let loose all your frustrations on it.