Just did mine
I replaced my leaking stainless steel muffler earlier this season, with a new fiberglass one. After trying to get the old one out via the starboard cockpit locker (maybe this would work if I had removed the fuel tank)and by attempting to remove the bulkhead behind the engine, I finally took out the panel next to the quarter berth that David mentions. The "difficult" screws closest to the stern -- accessible only from the muffler area! -- had already been left loose by previous owner. Some of the screws on the cabin end of this panel were difficult to find; I ended up loosening or removing a piece or two of the teak forming the engine enclosure frame to access these screws. Once this panel was out, it was easy to crawl into the aft berth and replace the muffler. Also take this opportunity to check out the wheel steering (if you have it) and the coupling on the rudder post. I found two nuts on the bolts mounting the steering pedestal to the cockpit floor were missing -- found them in the bilge and replaced.