I would like to move my track out of the cockpit and move it to mid boom. I would be interested in advise if anyone at this site has done the same. If you have a 37C with a mid track, how do they hide the bolts in the cabin? Rick Harvey
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Ed Schenck
Contemplating same upgrade...
but not this year. I saw one in NC where he used teak blocks thru-bolted with the original traveller. Did not see the inside headliner modification. I thought I would just use two large stainless plates right on top of the headliner. I'm not sure if you could peel that back and then hide your work. My only reason for considering the change is that I'll eventually want a full-size dodger. I think I have more control where it is currently located. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
but not this year. I saw one in NC where he used teak blocks thru-bolted with the original traveller. Did not see the inside headliner modification. I thought I would just use two large stainless plates right on top of the headliner. I'm not sure if you could peel that back and then hide your work. My only reason for considering the change is that I'll eventually want a full-size dodger. I think I have more control where it is currently located. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
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Pete Vente
Can I join the club ?
I've also been wrestling with this idea. Harken has risers specifically designed to span cabin tops (expensive - 500$ a pair), that are rated for a main of 300 sq ft. if sheeted at mid boom. That cuts it close with my mainsail. The only problem I see is that where the companionway hatch ends, it doesn't look like I could sheet it exaclty at mid-boom, but maybe 40%, which I wouldn't do. While I haven't measured it precisely, it looks like my dodger gets in the way of mounting it at mid boom. I figured that if I went ahead with this mod, I would mount the risers and put a thich wooden winch pad underneath, which wouldn't look too unattractive. I would avoid going underneath the headliner on this boat.
I've also been wrestling with this idea. Harken has risers specifically designed to span cabin tops (expensive - 500$ a pair), that are rated for a main of 300 sq ft. if sheeted at mid boom. That cuts it close with my mainsail. The only problem I see is that where the companionway hatch ends, it doesn't look like I could sheet it exaclty at mid-boom, but maybe 40%, which I wouldn't do. While I haven't measured it precisely, it looks like my dodger gets in the way of mounting it at mid boom. I figured that if I went ahead with this mod, I would mount the risers and put a thich wooden winch pad underneath, which wouldn't look too unattractive. I would avoid going underneath the headliner on this boat.
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Bill Young
I did this
I have plans how to make a traveler support that fits across the cabin top. It is made of alum. and can be made for I think about $200.00 Send me your e-mail address and I'll send the plans. No charge. Keep in mind that I made the drawings in "paintbrush" My email is wfyoung@carterchambers.com Bill
I have plans how to make a traveler support that fits across the cabin top. It is made of alum. and can be made for I think about $200.00 Send me your e-mail address and I'll send the plans. No charge. Keep in mind that I made the drawings in "paintbrush" My email is wfyoung@carterchambers.com Bill
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Sam Lust
Traveler- Quick, Cheap, Easy
I recently installed a Garhauer mid-boom traveler set-up on my 33. How's $450.00 for the whole kit and kaboodle? Risers, very substantial unsupported track, hefty ball bearing car, 6:1 traveler purchase with ball sheaves. Sure beats the $1500 you'll spend on Harken or Shaefer I went right through the roof and head liner and the backing plate (also supplied) and bolt heads show inside just like they should. Inspection is simple. Look up and see if everything's OK. Personally, I have no problem with seeing working bits inside the cabin. Gives me a warm feeling being able to see that all's well, and if done well the mechanical stuff should look functional, and therefore, attractive.
I recently installed a Garhauer mid-boom traveler set-up on my 33. How's $450.00 for the whole kit and kaboodle? Risers, very substantial unsupported track, hefty ball bearing car, 6:1 traveler purchase with ball sheaves. Sure beats the $1500 you'll spend on Harken or Shaefer I went right through the roof and head liner and the backing plate (also supplied) and bolt heads show inside just like they should. Inspection is simple. Look up and see if everything's OK. Personally, I have no problem with seeing working bits inside the cabin. Gives me a warm feeling being able to see that all's well, and if done well the mechanical stuff should look functional, and therefore, attractive.
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Ed Schenck
Hey Sam, explain please.
Did you call Garhauer? I don't see that setup on their web-site. Does that cost include new blocks for the mainsheet on the traveller and boom? Did you run the sheet the same as original, forward on the boom and then back to the cabin-top winch? What is the purchase on the mainsheet and if it is still 4:1 is it enough at mid-boom?
Did you call Garhauer? I don't see that setup on their web-site. Does that cost include new blocks for the mainsheet on the traveller and boom? Did you run the sheet the same as original, forward on the boom and then back to the cabin-top winch? What is the purchase on the mainsheet and if it is still 4:1 is it enough at mid-boom?
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Tom Hadoulias
Mine is made of Teak
My standoffs were made of teak and through bolted directly through the cabin top and liner with stainless all-thread to a teak backing plate. The original track was used mounted in tension which bends the track in a slight radius over the companion hatch cover. All existing hardware was utilized and the 4:1 purchase remains the same except that it is now mounted slightly aft of mid boom. Absolutely no adverse or exceptional loads have been observed with this set up. My only problem was, the previous owners did not adequately protect the teak blocks and they rotted out from the inside. Upon removing them, I found that they were so badly rotted that all that was holding the assembly together was the all-thread rod. There were three 5/16" rods per side and this alone was sufficient to hold the whole track in place. The teak was just a spacer, so in retrospect, I'll replace with aluminum or starboard. Shaefer also makes standoffs for about $140.00 each. These would be a simple bolt on intallation using your existing hardware. What a difference this makes in the cockpit! Tom
My standoffs were made of teak and through bolted directly through the cabin top and liner with stainless all-thread to a teak backing plate. The original track was used mounted in tension which bends the track in a slight radius over the companion hatch cover. All existing hardware was utilized and the 4:1 purchase remains the same except that it is now mounted slightly aft of mid boom. Absolutely no adverse or exceptional loads have been observed with this set up. My only problem was, the previous owners did not adequately protect the teak blocks and they rotted out from the inside. Upon removing them, I found that they were so badly rotted that all that was holding the assembly together was the all-thread rod. There were three 5/16" rods per side and this alone was sufficient to hold the whole track in place. The teak was just a spacer, so in retrospect, I'll replace with aluminum or starboard. Shaefer also makes standoffs for about $140.00 each. These would be a simple bolt on intallation using your existing hardware. What a difference this makes in the cockpit! Tom
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Capt Walt
Boom height on 37c'
Has anyone out there raised the boom on their 37 cutters? Mine is awfully low, and it looks as if it could be easily raised about 6-8 inches without the top of the sail running out of mast.. If any of you have done this, I'd appreciate knowing about any negatives. Thanks.
Has anyone out there raised the boom on their 37 cutters? Mine is awfully low, and it looks as if it could be easily raised about 6-8 inches without the top of the sail running out of mast.. If any of you have done this, I'd appreciate knowing about any negatives. Thanks.
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Ed Schenck
Changing boom height.
Walt, did you check the archives? I remember that someone moved the boom up just the height of the mounting plate. In other words used the top holes on the mast as the new bottom holes for the bolts. Would be close to 6 inches. But I don't find mine too low, even when level. Were there differences over the model years? Mine is a '79. I don't think 6 inches would be noticeable as far as Center-of-Effort is concerned.
Walt, did you check the archives? I remember that someone moved the boom up just the height of the mounting plate. In other words used the top holes on the mast as the new bottom holes for the bolts. Would be close to 6 inches. But I don't find mine too low, even when level. Were there differences over the model years? Mine is a '79. I don't think 6 inches would be noticeable as far as Center-of-Effort is concerned.
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Sam Lust
Traveler Follow-up
A little bit more detailed description of the way I set up the Garhauer cabin-top mid-boom traveler at the request of Ed Schenck. To start, the tarveler is shown in the Garhauer catalog, page 24, item MT-2, but you really can't see what it is. (If he had a decent catalog he'd probably sell 10 times as much hardware!) I happened to see a flyer in his booth at the Atlantic City Sailboat show last January showing the complete set-up being sold for a (gasp) Catalina 30. The set-up includes polished stainless risers, hefty track, hefty reirculating ball car, 6:1 sheaves for side to side adjustment of the car, cam cleats, pre-drilled backing plates and the 12 long oval head screws to mount it. All for $450. It does not include the sheet tackle. There are too many possible variations for that. I have a triple and two singles at the car, and a double and two singles on three bails at the boom. Single-handing on a small, windy, shallow bay I don't have the time (or energy) to go climbing forward every time I want to make a minute adjustment to the main sheet or traveler. Main sheet, and both port and starboard traveler lines lead back to the wheel at a position just aft of the starboard winch. The main sheet is done a little bit oddly. It's bitter end is at the port end of the traveler, comes across through the tackle arrangement to the boom, and then down to the side deck and back to the wheel. The tackle is, if I recall, either 7 or 8 to 1. It IS mid-boom and I'm afraid there is a wee bit of friction induced by all those sheaves. But it's worth it to be able to trim the main and traveler seated at the wheel. If you're going to order, Guido will need to know the ultimate width of the mounting point on the cabin top, and the rise of the track above those points. I've sailed with it maybe 5 or 6 times so far and I'm quite pleased. I think that compared to $1,200 to $2,000 or more for Harken of Schaefer the Garhauer is a great value. Just make sure Guido doesn't loose your order on his desk for 4 months like he did mine. Must have been the pressure of supplying all that Catalina original equipment hardware!
A little bit more detailed description of the way I set up the Garhauer cabin-top mid-boom traveler at the request of Ed Schenck. To start, the tarveler is shown in the Garhauer catalog, page 24, item MT-2, but you really can't see what it is. (If he had a decent catalog he'd probably sell 10 times as much hardware!) I happened to see a flyer in his booth at the Atlantic City Sailboat show last January showing the complete set-up being sold for a (gasp) Catalina 30. The set-up includes polished stainless risers, hefty track, hefty reirculating ball car, 6:1 sheaves for side to side adjustment of the car, cam cleats, pre-drilled backing plates and the 12 long oval head screws to mount it. All for $450. It does not include the sheet tackle. There are too many possible variations for that. I have a triple and two singles at the car, and a double and two singles on three bails at the boom. Single-handing on a small, windy, shallow bay I don't have the time (or energy) to go climbing forward every time I want to make a minute adjustment to the main sheet or traveler. Main sheet, and both port and starboard traveler lines lead back to the wheel at a position just aft of the starboard winch. The main sheet is done a little bit oddly. It's bitter end is at the port end of the traveler, comes across through the tackle arrangement to the boom, and then down to the side deck and back to the wheel. The tackle is, if I recall, either 7 or 8 to 1. It IS mid-boom and I'm afraid there is a wee bit of friction induced by all those sheaves. But it's worth it to be able to trim the main and traveler seated at the wheel. If you're going to order, Guido will need to know the ultimate width of the mounting point on the cabin top, and the rise of the track above those points. I've sailed with it maybe 5 or 6 times so far and I'm quite pleased. I think that compared to $1,200 to $2,000 or more for Harken of Schaefer the Garhauer is a great value. Just make sure Guido doesn't loose your order on his desk for 4 months like he did mine. Must have been the pressure of supplying all that Catalina original equipment hardware!
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