Moveing jib furl line off the deck to the stachions
- Thread starter luken7
- Start date
there are a couple of options for this... the cheapest and quickest is the stanchion mounted bulls-eye fairleads, and they work well.
on a longer boat, or if you want to spend more money, you can buy stanchion mounted blocks to run the furling line thru...
the bulls-eye leads are low friction and are the most common solution and it is what is installed on our boat....
you may or may not have deck mounted bulls-eye leads now, but if you dont, thats good... you dont want them if you have stanchions, as the line still lays on the deck and gets extremely dirty from any fallout that collects.
the line mounted a couple inches higher on the stanchions where the line can remain suspended, it stays much cleaner than one laying on the deck.
dont get the leads mounted too high on the stanchions as it could cause flexing, but 2-4 inches above the deck would be about right...
on a longer boat, or if you want to spend more money, you can buy stanchion mounted blocks to run the furling line thru...
the bulls-eye leads are low friction and are the most common solution and it is what is installed on our boat....
you may or may not have deck mounted bulls-eye leads now, but if you dont, thats good... you dont want them if you have stanchions, as the line still lays on the deck and gets extremely dirty from any fallout that collects.
the line mounted a couple inches higher on the stanchions where the line can remain suspended, it stays much cleaner than one laying on the deck.
dont get the leads mounted too high on the stanchions as it could cause flexing, but 2-4 inches above the deck would be about right...
I did this a year ago on our 361, I'll get some pictures if you want. I went with same leads as jackdaw but had a spare Spinlock clutch that I mounted as far back as I could on port side, took me a while to stop stomping my toe on it. Then I have a block on the stanchion so I can take it up to the coach roof winch if I have to, and I've had to....
I did it mainly because people, not me, were tripping on it on the bow and we carry our inflatable on deck, the furling would be under and rub on the inflatable. I always remove the line from the clutch and hang it before the gate on lifelines, otherwise the big gate has a nice trip line and as you can tell me and those I sail with are klutses.....
I did it mainly because people, not me, were tripping on it on the bow and we carry our inflatable on deck, the furling would be under and rub on the inflatable. I always remove the line from the clutch and hang it before the gate on lifelines, otherwise the big gate has a nice trip line and as you can tell me and those I sail with are klutses.....
I would change to the low profile Garhauer furling line double-sheave guides that can be mounted very low on your stanchions. At the aft end put a Harken ratcheting block and have a Sherman Johnson small clamp-on cleat on the nearby (?) stern rail. That combo has been functioning well for us for almost 20 years.
We did start out with the ss lined guides (photo in earlier reply) for a little while, but even those add unwanted friction.
LB
We did start out with the ss lined guides (photo in earlier reply) for a little while, but even those add unwanted friction.
LB
I actually lifted them up on the stanchion a bit and decided to put a cleat on the stanchion before the lifeline gate, where I hang the furling line when not sailing. When installed low on deck I found it would sag, slow down draining along toe rail and leaving lots of dirt. I live in Seattle area so proper drainage flow is important in the winter.
See pictures for our 361, used it for a couple of years, I like that I can pull it in with winch if needed. The only issue is the small block on the stanchion right after the rope clutch. I might replace it with a more free hanging block as the angle changes between winches and just pulling on it manually but there are many other things on my list before doing that.
See pictures for our 361, used it for a couple of years, I like that I can pull it in with winch if needed. The only issue is the small block on the stanchion right after the rope clutch. I might replace it with a more free hanging block as the angle changes between winches and just pulling on it manually but there are many other things on my list before doing that.
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Syversens, what was your reasoning for mounting the guides outboard on the stanchions?
It seems like the setup would be vulnerable to dock damage if some over zealous marina "helper" comes along. I can see where it may eliminate a trip hazard, but that's about all
That was a concern for me too and originally I had the lines on the inside. It really hasn't made any difference but I found that having them on the inside made the lines cut thru the deck more than if they were on the outside. Also the stanchions are angled out so the line is still "inside" the top lifeline.
Honestly not much difference, I tried inside then outside and preferred this and not had any issues with it.
Honestly not much difference, I tried inside then outside and preferred this and not had any issues with it.
OK so after a season with tweaking my setup I've concluded my setup is working poorly. Leading the furling line outside actually makes it a bit smoother and not had a problem with people pulling on it, but my aft block is completely useless.
I need something like what Jackdaws has where the mount pivots as my line comes from deck, up to the cockpit. Anyone know where I can get a pivotable ball stanchion thing that Jackdaws has? I have a spare block from the mast base that I hope to maybe use for this..... If I remember it has the pin that you insert in the collar around the mas base and lock.
I need something like what Jackdaws has where the mount pivots as my line comes from deck, up to the cockpit. Anyone know where I can get a pivotable ball stanchion thing that Jackdaws has? I have a spare block from the mast base that I hope to maybe use for this..... If I remember it has the pin that you insert in the collar around the mas base and lock.