I have a H37C, 1984 model. I am begining to have water tank problems similar to those described here. I have no problem with cutting the top of the settee off as I have repaired fiberglass before when dealing with the holding tank (which is also due again). My question to Ed Schenck is "how are the tanks secured under the settee?" I have checked your referenced photos which are great for the cutting part. How were your tanks secured? Did you have to cut up the tanks to get them out or did they come out as one piece? Obviously the next question is what did you repklace the original tanks with? I have seen adds for various plastics, welded plastics, molded plastics, etc. Are there "standard" non-mental tanks that will fit the H37C? Where do I find them? Thanks Ed. I follow all your remarks on this site with great interest. You obviously have more time than I do but I am not afraid to tackle a serious project and after owning my boat for 20 years I have done a few. I do not see this as a serious project unless those tanks are mounted directly to the hull and need to be cut out. Otherwise it is just a replacement with new fittings and then put the settees back together. Fair winds. Don
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I have a H37C, 1984 model. I am begining to have water tank problems similar to those described here. I have no problem with cutting the top of the settee off as I have repaired fiberglass before when dealing with the holding tank (which is also due again). My question to Ed Schenck is "how are the tanks secured under the settee?" I have checked your referenced photos which are great for the cutting part. How were your tanks secured? Did you have to cut up the tanks to get them out or did they come out as one piece? Obviously the next question is what did you repklace the original tanks with? I have seen adds for various plastics, welded plastics, molded plastics, etc. Are there "standard" non-mental tanks that will fit the H37C? Where do I find them? Thanks Ed. I follow all your remarks on this site with great interest. You obviously have more time than I do but I am not afraid to tackle a serious project and after owning my boat for 20 years I have done a few. I do not see this as a serious project unless those tanks are mounted directly to the hull and need to be cut out. Otherwise it is just a replacement with new fittings and then put the settees back together. Fair winds. Don
My H30
We'll wait to see what Ed has to say about your model boat, but for those interested in 78H30, the water tank was glassed in. Just one strip of glass tabbing on the hull side of the tank like an angle iron. It was glassed to the tank directly, and the wodden floor the tank rested on. There was a small radius curve at the corner, which made it easy to cut the glass tabbing to get the tank out. There were some small pieces of spacing wood between the tank and the inner edge of the setee, but no mechanical attachment.
We'll wait to see what Ed has to say about your model boat, but for those interested in 78H30, the water tank was glassed in. Just one strip of glass tabbing on the hull side of the tank like an angle iron. It was glassed to the tank directly, and the wodden floor the tank rested on. There was a small radius curve at the corner, which made it easy to cut the glass tabbing to get the tank out. There were some small pieces of spacing wood between the tank and the inner edge of the setee, but no mechanical attachment.
My H30
We'll wait to see what Ed has to say about your model boat, but for those interested in 78H30, the water tank was glassed in. Just one strip of glass tabbing on the hull side of the tank like an angle iron. It was glassed to the tank directly, and the wodden floor the tank rested on. There was a small radius curve at the corner, which made it easy to cut the glass tabbing to get the tank out. There were some small pieces of spacing wood between the tank and the inner edge of the setee, but no mechanical attachment.
We'll wait to see what Ed has to say about your model boat, but for those interested in 78H30, the water tank was glassed in. Just one strip of glass tabbing on the hull side of the tank like an angle iron. It was glassed to the tank directly, and the wodden floor the tank rested on. There was a small radius curve at the corner, which made it easy to cut the glass tabbing to get the tank out. There were some small pieces of spacing wood between the tank and the inner edge of the setee, but no mechanical attachment.
water tank fix
Don: You can see my approach in the photo forum archives. I tried 2 methods, both seem to have worked. On the port side I cut the top of the tank out, removed the baffles, and laid a bladder tank in the hole. On the stbd side,I used epoxy after cutting out two access holes and making removable access covers. There was only one baffle in the stbd side, two in the port tank. Cutting the baffles out is a royal pain, so the epoxy fix is far easier.
Don: You can see my approach in the photo forum archives. I tried 2 methods, both seem to have worked. On the port side I cut the top of the tank out, removed the baffles, and laid a bladder tank in the hole. On the stbd side,I used epoxy after cutting out two access holes and making removable access covers. There was only one baffle in the stbd side, two in the port tank. Cutting the baffles out is a royal pain, so the epoxy fix is far easier.
water tank fix
Don: You can see my approach in the photo forum archives. I tried 2 methods, both seem to have worked. On the port side I cut the top of the tank out, removed the baffles, and laid a bladder tank in the hole. On the stbd side,I used epoxy after cutting out two access holes and making removable access covers. There was only one baffle in the stbd side, two in the port tank. Cutting the baffles out is a royal pain, so the epoxy fix is far easier.
Don: You can see my approach in the photo forum archives. I tried 2 methods, both seem to have worked. On the port side I cut the top of the tank out, removed the baffles, and laid a bladder tank in the hole. On the stbd side,I used epoxy after cutting out two access holes and making removable access covers. There was only one baffle in the stbd side, two in the port tank. Cutting the baffles out is a royal pain, so the epoxy fix is far easier.
Water tanks
Richard: I am planning on doing the epoxy resin fix on both of my 37c water tanks.(not leaking but unuseable) Can you give some more details on your stbd tank fix? What brand and type of resin did you use (food-grade?), did you use Beckson(sp) plastic access hatches or aluminum? Thanks
Richard: I am planning on doing the epoxy resin fix on both of my 37c water tanks.(not leaking but unuseable) Can you give some more details on your stbd tank fix? What brand and type of resin did you use (food-grade?), did you use Beckson(sp) plastic access hatches or aluminum? Thanks
Water tanks
Richard: I am planning on doing the epoxy resin fix on both of my 37c water tanks.(not leaking but unuseable) Can you give some more details on your stbd tank fix? What brand and type of resin did you use (food-grade?), did you use Beckson(sp) plastic access hatches or aluminum? Thanks
Richard: I am planning on doing the epoxy resin fix on both of my 37c water tanks.(not leaking but unuseable) Can you give some more details on your stbd tank fix? What brand and type of resin did you use (food-grade?), did you use Beckson(sp) plastic access hatches or aluminum? Thanks
another approach
I've worked on my tanks, doing some patching on one, and converting the other to a fuel tank. As to how the tanks are attached, they are just glassed in as someone else described. I did some serious changes on the stbd side and had that tank out for other reasons. It was not attached at all, the tabbing having come loose some time before. The tank had been pounding on the 110 volt wiring that was also not well attached. But that is different subject for a different time. Rather than remove the tanks or cut them open on top, I'd recommend that you install cleanouts and work through them. You can make good use of them other times. Here is a link to what I wrote on them, if you want more information please feel free to email me. austinsailor at cs dot com http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html There are people on this board who have used about every imaginable method to solve this problem, and I think I was lucky to try the easiest. Those of you who tried other methods, please jump in and set me straight if I'm wrong.
I've worked on my tanks, doing some patching on one, and converting the other to a fuel tank. As to how the tanks are attached, they are just glassed in as someone else described. I did some serious changes on the stbd side and had that tank out for other reasons. It was not attached at all, the tabbing having come loose some time before. The tank had been pounding on the 110 volt wiring that was also not well attached. But that is different subject for a different time. Rather than remove the tanks or cut them open on top, I'd recommend that you install cleanouts and work through them. You can make good use of them other times. Here is a link to what I wrote on them, if you want more information please feel free to email me. austinsailor at cs dot com http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html There are people on this board who have used about every imaginable method to solve this problem, and I think I was lucky to try the easiest. Those of you who tried other methods, please jump in and set me straight if I'm wrong.
another approach
I've worked on my tanks, doing some patching on one, and converting the other to a fuel tank. As to how the tanks are attached, they are just glassed in as someone else described. I did some serious changes on the stbd side and had that tank out for other reasons. It was not attached at all, the tabbing having come loose some time before. The tank had been pounding on the 110 volt wiring that was also not well attached. But that is different subject for a different time. Rather than remove the tanks or cut them open on top, I'd recommend that you install cleanouts and work through them. You can make good use of them other times. Here is a link to what I wrote on them, if you want more information please feel free to email me. austinsailor at cs dot com http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html There are people on this board who have used about every imaginable method to solve this problem, and I think I was lucky to try the easiest. Those of you who tried other methods, please jump in and set me straight if I'm wrong.
I've worked on my tanks, doing some patching on one, and converting the other to a fuel tank. As to how the tanks are attached, they are just glassed in as someone else described. I did some serious changes on the stbd side and had that tank out for other reasons. It was not attached at all, the tabbing having come loose some time before. The tank had been pounding on the 110 volt wiring that was also not well attached. But that is different subject for a different time. Rather than remove the tanks or cut them open on top, I'd recommend that you install cleanouts and work through them. You can make good use of them other times. Here is a link to what I wrote on them, if you want more information please feel free to email me. austinsailor at cs dot com http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/watertnk.html There are people on this board who have used about every imaginable method to solve this problem, and I think I was lucky to try the easiest. Those of you who tried other methods, please jump in and set me straight if I'm wrong.
Tank questions.
The Related Link is a thread from a year or two ago initiated by Richard. In there you will see a picture of Ron Pearson's tanks and also a note about the right epoxy for the job. I had thought Ron posted his final fix but I cannot locate it. He ended up purchasing two Ronco tanks, about 40+ gallons each, that would fit in the space. I believe the tanks just have a cloth/epoxy tab along the hull, bottom and top. I just remember Ron saying that after the settee tops were cut out that the tanks were easy to remove. My port tank may just have developed a leak this season. On our last overnight I switched to the port tank and either it was empty or coincidentally the pump went bad. I do not remember ever using it in 2004.
The Related Link is a thread from a year or two ago initiated by Richard. In there you will see a picture of Ron Pearson's tanks and also a note about the right epoxy for the job. I had thought Ron posted his final fix but I cannot locate it. He ended up purchasing two Ronco tanks, about 40+ gallons each, that would fit in the space. I believe the tanks just have a cloth/epoxy tab along the hull, bottom and top. I just remember Ron saying that after the settee tops were cut out that the tanks were easy to remove. My port tank may just have developed a leak this season. On our last overnight I switched to the port tank and either it was empty or coincidentally the pump went bad. I do not remember ever using it in 2004.
Tank questions.
The Related Link is a thread from a year or two ago initiated by Richard. In there you will see a picture of Ron Pearson's tanks and also a note about the right epoxy for the job. I had thought Ron posted his final fix but I cannot locate it. He ended up purchasing two Ronco tanks, about 40+ gallons each, that would fit in the space. I believe the tanks just have a cloth/epoxy tab along the hull, bottom and top. I just remember Ron saying that after the settee tops were cut out that the tanks were easy to remove. My port tank may just have developed a leak this season. On our last overnight I switched to the port tank and either it was empty or coincidentally the pump went bad. I do not remember ever using it in 2004.
The Related Link is a thread from a year or two ago initiated by Richard. In there you will see a picture of Ron Pearson's tanks and also a note about the right epoxy for the job. I had thought Ron posted his final fix but I cannot locate it. He ended up purchasing two Ronco tanks, about 40+ gallons each, that would fit in the space. I believe the tanks just have a cloth/epoxy tab along the hull, bottom and top. I just remember Ron saying that after the settee tops were cut out that the tanks were easy to remove. My port tank may just have developed a leak this season. On our last overnight I switched to the port tank and either it was empty or coincidentally the pump went bad. I do not remember ever using it in 2004.
for Val:
Val: The epoxy was from the local builder's supply -It took two quarts in two coats. I had some feedback at the time that it was not "food grade" but we generally drink bottled water and use the tank water for washing. I don't know what nasties lurk in epoxy monomer, but there's no smell or color in the water. After several years of use I don't think it will be a problem. As for the hatches, I made them from 1/4 inch thick polyethylene - a cutting board from Wal-mart, fastened with sheet metal screws bedded in silicone. I don't open them except on ceremonial occasions. There are two: one on each end (baffle in between, as I recall). They are about 10" square to allow for getting to all the insides of the tank. By the way, I did the same for the old holding tank- which is now converted to storage. I used a round "deck plate" for access thru the shower seat.
Val: The epoxy was from the local builder's supply -It took two quarts in two coats. I had some feedback at the time that it was not "food grade" but we generally drink bottled water and use the tank water for washing. I don't know what nasties lurk in epoxy monomer, but there's no smell or color in the water. After several years of use I don't think it will be a problem. As for the hatches, I made them from 1/4 inch thick polyethylene - a cutting board from Wal-mart, fastened with sheet metal screws bedded in silicone. I don't open them except on ceremonial occasions. There are two: one on each end (baffle in between, as I recall). They are about 10" square to allow for getting to all the insides of the tank. By the way, I did the same for the old holding tank- which is now converted to storage. I used a round "deck plate" for access thru the shower seat.
for Val:
Val: The epoxy was from the local builder's supply -It took two quarts in two coats. I had some feedback at the time that it was not "food grade" but we generally drink bottled water and use the tank water for washing. I don't know what nasties lurk in epoxy monomer, but there's no smell or color in the water. After several years of use I don't think it will be a problem. As for the hatches, I made them from 1/4 inch thick polyethylene - a cutting board from Wal-mart, fastened with sheet metal screws bedded in silicone. I don't open them except on ceremonial occasions. There are two: one on each end (baffle in between, as I recall). They are about 10" square to allow for getting to all the insides of the tank. By the way, I did the same for the old holding tank- which is now converted to storage. I used a round "deck plate" for access thru the shower seat.
Val: The epoxy was from the local builder's supply -It took two quarts in two coats. I had some feedback at the time that it was not "food grade" but we generally drink bottled water and use the tank water for washing. I don't know what nasties lurk in epoxy monomer, but there's no smell or color in the water. After several years of use I don't think it will be a problem. As for the hatches, I made them from 1/4 inch thick polyethylene - a cutting board from Wal-mart, fastened with sheet metal screws bedded in silicone. I don't open them except on ceremonial occasions. There are two: one on each end (baffle in between, as I recall). They are about 10" square to allow for getting to all the insides of the tank. By the way, I did the same for the old holding tank- which is now converted to storage. I used a round "deck plate" for access thru the shower seat.
water tanks
Thanks for the details Richard, I added 8" off the shelf round access ports to 2 plastic water tanks I have, also using a cutting board for a backing ring and bedded in silicone. It worked pretty well so I think I will use them on the alum. water tanks as well. Food grade resin is hard to find. I will have a water filter anyway. This is practice before adding an access hatch to the diesel tank. I saw an alum hatch on the web for that. Thanks to Ed also, you always seem to have the appropriate link from the archives. Could not find any reference on the web for that resin.
Thanks for the details Richard, I added 8" off the shelf round access ports to 2 plastic water tanks I have, also using a cutting board for a backing ring and bedded in silicone. It worked pretty well so I think I will use them on the alum. water tanks as well. Food grade resin is hard to find. I will have a water filter anyway. This is practice before adding an access hatch to the diesel tank. I saw an alum hatch on the web for that. Thanks to Ed also, you always seem to have the appropriate link from the archives. Could not find any reference on the web for that resin.
water tanks
Thanks for the details Richard, I added 8" off the shelf round access ports to 2 plastic water tanks I have, also using a cutting board for a backing ring and bedded in silicone. It worked pretty well so I think I will use them on the alum. water tanks as well. Food grade resin is hard to find. I will have a water filter anyway. This is practice before adding an access hatch to the diesel tank. I saw an alum hatch on the web for that. Thanks to Ed also, you always seem to have the appropriate link from the archives. Could not find any reference on the web for that resin.
Thanks for the details Richard, I added 8" off the shelf round access ports to 2 plastic water tanks I have, also using a cutting board for a backing ring and bedded in silicone. It worked pretty well so I think I will use them on the alum. water tanks as well. Food grade resin is hard to find. I will have a water filter anyway. This is practice before adding an access hatch to the diesel tank. I saw an alum hatch on the web for that. Thanks to Ed also, you always seem to have the appropriate link from the archives. Could not find any reference on the web for that resin.
Thanks
Thanks Ed and all the rest who replied. As usual this is a great source of information on the older Hunters. I am currently on a consulting job in Papua New Guinea but should be back to my boat in February. I will have a closer look at my tanks then and plan the removal. It appears the tanks are not held on the bottom by tabs to the hull like the original holding tank. That means they may be cut out so I will probably remove both tanks and replace with non metal ones. The second replacement of the holding tank is another story. I realize that cheap fixes are really not cheap when they have to be done twice. Fair winds. Don
Thanks Ed and all the rest who replied. As usual this is a great source of information on the older Hunters. I am currently on a consulting job in Papua New Guinea but should be back to my boat in February. I will have a closer look at my tanks then and plan the removal. It appears the tanks are not held on the bottom by tabs to the hull like the original holding tank. That means they may be cut out so I will probably remove both tanks and replace with non metal ones. The second replacement of the holding tank is another story. I realize that cheap fixes are really not cheap when they have to be done twice. Fair winds. Don
Thanks
Thanks Ed and all the rest who replied. As usual this is a great source of information on the older Hunters. I am currently on a consulting job in Papua New Guinea but should be back to my boat in February. I will have a closer look at my tanks then and plan the removal. It appears the tanks are not held on the bottom by tabs to the hull like the original holding tank. That means they may be cut out so I will probably remove both tanks and replace with non metal ones. The second replacement of the holding tank is another story. I realize that cheap fixes are really not cheap when they have to be done twice. Fair winds. Don
Thanks Ed and all the rest who replied. As usual this is a great source of information on the older Hunters. I am currently on a consulting job in Papua New Guinea but should be back to my boat in February. I will have a closer look at my tanks then and plan the removal. It appears the tanks are not held on the bottom by tabs to the hull like the original holding tank. That means they may be cut out so I will probably remove both tanks and replace with non metal ones. The second replacement of the holding tank is another story. I realize that cheap fixes are really not cheap when they have to be done twice. Fair winds. Don
Valhala's solution
In my H37C '85, I also had water tank problems(things clogging my filters) and my solution was to cut two acces holes for screw in inspedtion plates on each tank. Seat them in with 5200 and add 5200 between the glass tabs and the tanks where they had come apart(actually, it was the entire tab as well as the fuel tank). I probed thru the guage hole and found where the baffel was and cut a square thru the fiberglass on each side of the baffel so that I could install the inspection plate. After installation of the inspection plate I screwed in a fined tab on 1x3 into the fiberglass so that after re-installation of the cut out portion, I could remove the fiberglass cut outs to get to the inspection ports. I have found that I have to clean the tanks annualy. Since I have cleaned the tanks annually, my fliters don't clog and my water is clear after a rough passage. My '85 has made two round trips to Bermuda in the last three years.
In my H37C '85, I also had water tank problems(things clogging my filters) and my solution was to cut two acces holes for screw in inspedtion plates on each tank. Seat them in with 5200 and add 5200 between the glass tabs and the tanks where they had come apart(actually, it was the entire tab as well as the fuel tank). I probed thru the guage hole and found where the baffel was and cut a square thru the fiberglass on each side of the baffel so that I could install the inspection plate. After installation of the inspection plate I screwed in a fined tab on 1x3 into the fiberglass so that after re-installation of the cut out portion, I could remove the fiberglass cut outs to get to the inspection ports. I have found that I have to clean the tanks annualy. Since I have cleaned the tanks annually, my fliters don't clog and my water is clear after a rough passage. My '85 has made two round trips to Bermuda in the last three years.
Valhala's solution
In my H37C '85, I also had water tank problems(things clogging my filters) and my solution was to cut two acces holes for screw in inspedtion plates on each tank. Seat them in with 5200 and add 5200 between the glass tabs and the tanks where they had come apart(actually, it was the entire tab as well as the fuel tank). I probed thru the guage hole and found where the baffel was and cut a square thru the fiberglass on each side of the baffel so that I could install the inspection plate. After installation of the inspection plate I screwed in a fined tab on 1x3 into the fiberglass so that after re-installation of the cut out portion, I could remove the fiberglass cut outs to get to the inspection ports. I have found that I have to clean the tanks annualy. Since I have cleaned the tanks annually, my fliters don't clog and my water is clear after a rough passage. My '85 has made two round trips to Bermuda in the last three years.
In my H37C '85, I also had water tank problems(things clogging my filters) and my solution was to cut two acces holes for screw in inspedtion plates on each tank. Seat them in with 5200 and add 5200 between the glass tabs and the tanks where they had come apart(actually, it was the entire tab as well as the fuel tank). I probed thru the guage hole and found where the baffel was and cut a square thru the fiberglass on each side of the baffel so that I could install the inspection plate. After installation of the inspection plate I screwed in a fined tab on 1x3 into the fiberglass so that after re-installation of the cut out portion, I could remove the fiberglass cut outs to get to the inspection ports. I have found that I have to clean the tanks annualy. Since I have cleaned the tanks annually, my fliters don't clog and my water is clear after a rough passage. My '85 has made two round trips to Bermuda in the last three years.
- Status