More newbie questions

[Kommy000]

Ok... I know , I know more questions.
1. Im trying to fix the rat nest of electrical wiring and also install my new chartplotter and was wondering what is that black box?
2. Realized one of my bow stanchions vertical legs is loose and being held with caulking only to the deck. Also all of my bow stanchions do not have a base with bolts that hold that base and stanchion. Looks like they go in to the deck and caulked around. When I looked from under the deck looks like there is one bolt that goes into each bow stanchion and screwed into it with the nut under the deck. When I took the cushions out to clean I found the bolt laying that I believe went into the loose stanchion. Is it normal setup for the 27 hunter? Does it screw into the stanchion somehow and then you just use that nut on the under the deck. Why would it just unscrew and fall out and if its not possible to screw it back in what would be the solution?
3. Also after removing the cushions found the access points for the water tank and holding tank but do not possess enough strength to unscrew the 6" plastic covers . Is there a special tool or just get a hammer and pound at it?
4. Added this question. Again .. Im new to this but this is my first boat that has a shore power plug. Does it automatically charge battery once you plug in, cause this boat also came with a boat charger plugged into the ac outlet of the boat.
Thanks

 

[shemandr]

I'm not the member to give the best answer but since there isn't another maybe this will keep your post from dropping off the page:
Black Box - I don't know
Stanchion - not normal . Usually a screw or bolt goes through the stanchion base, and through the deck to a nut underneath with hopefully a heavy washer or backing plate. It's possible that on the Hunter there is a system in which a bolt threads up through the deck into a machined stanchion end - but I doubt it since it seems like an expensive way to do it. Dave Condon would be THE source on matters of Hunters.
The plastic covers are probably just tight and "Frozen." Special tool is elbow grease and some sort of plier or wrench which can engage the flat surfaces of cover.
Don't assume shore power plug is connected to charger for batteries. The charger may do that. But with electric you need to verify and understand the entire system. There are many installations, some factory and some Previous Owners and you can't assume anything.

 

[Joe]

4. Added this question. Again .. Im new to this but this is my first boat that has a shore power plug. Does it automatically charge battery once you plug in, cause this boat also came with a boat charger plugged into the ac outlet of the boat.
Thanks

First, you need to determine what make and model charger it is. Then, since it appears your previous owner left you no documentation or owner's manuals for the equipment, do a google search for the installation manual for your Charger. It's important you do this to keep from wrecking your battery.

A properly installed shore power system will have a master switch... follow the wiring from where it enters the boat and make a sketch of the whole system. Do the same thing for your 12 volt system also. If you have a hardwired charger, there should also be a 30 amp rated switch for it also.

I can't tell what the "black box" is... picture is fuzzy.

 

[Kommy000]

First, you need to determine what make and model charger it is. Then, since it appears your previous owner left you no documentation or owner's manuals for the equipment, do a google search for the installation manual for your Charger. It's important you do this to keep from wrecking your battery.

A properly installed shore power system will have a master switch... follow the wiring from where it enters the boat and make a sketch of the whole system. Do the same thing for your 12 volt system also. If you have a hardwired charger, there should also be a 30 amp rated switch for it also.

I can't tell what the "black box" is... picture is fuzzy.

fuzzy? did you click on the thumbnail, its a HD pic so its pretty sharp. It has a rotary switch on it from OFF to ON to ON+light and there is a warning on it too says:"Important. switching off during passage will reset all log headings"
has a logo that looks like STOWE with multiple waivy WWW above each other.

 

[Joe]

Sorry... even it were clear on my end, I'd still want to know what the black box is connected to? Can you follow the wires to find out?

 

[jssailem]

logo that looks like STOWE with multiple waivy WWW above each other.

Try sending image and query to this site. http://www.stowemarine.com/contact/contact.htm. My guess you have an aftermarket electronic item and the box is a switch. turn it on to "On+Light" and go looking for what is lit up.
Not a Hunter owner, but your "Bolt" looks like a threaded stud that has backed out of it's place. You would want to screw it back into it's hole and snug up tight with the nut and lock washer. Me, I would remove the "loose stanchion" remove all the caulking, examine the deck and core for water damage. Repair deck if needed, get a base on the stanchion that lets me bolt it through the deck. Get a proper backing plate for the stanchion. Prep the site (see MaineSail's stanchion base repair suggestions - http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware) apply sealant (my preference is butyl) bolt the stanchion to the deck and go sailing.

You will be a lot more sure when your guest or family member leans against the stanchion to stop from falling over board that they may stay on the boat and not become an MOB.

 

[SailormanDan]

1. Yes, that black box is an after market gizmo. From looking at their site, seems like there is a gauge or instrument in the cockpit that is connected to it.
2. Stanchions: Mine were loose, but re-bedding and tightening solved that problem. I didn't have that issue to have to pull the whole rail and look, but it seems that JSSailem has the answer. (Bow & stern rails are similar) After 35 years, stuff just wears out or gets loose.
3. Access hatches of the tanks: I have a pair of Channel Lock pliers that I was able to open up far enough to grip it and turn it loose, it was tight, but was able to work it loose. They are plastic and could crack.
4. No, does not charge battery automatically, that's why there is a charger plugged into the ac outlet of the boat. I added one to mine and also have solar panels on the seahood.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Black Box: here is the Stowe Instruments web site:
http://www.stowemarine.com

The bow pulpit should be anchored to a backing plate or the toe rail.

The tank ports are a Prior Owner (P.O.) improvement. If you have a shore power charging system, it is also from a PO. So we need to know the make, model and often a picture to help.

In the end, on all your systems, you will end up tracing connections of wires/pipes to discover the mix of original delivery, and PO work. But the h27 has simple systems, and most of them are easy to understand and fix.

 

[Franklin]

On some Hunter boats they bolt deck hardware into the deck and inside the deck is a fiberglassed in threaded backing plate. The plate serves as the backing plate and nut. I think it is a terrible idea and becomes a real problem when the bolt breaks off inside it. All my stanchions are done that way. The good thing about it is one person can take them off easily if the big screws do not strip the heads and they don't break.

 

[Dennis Kitchen]

On my Cherubini 25 the bolt you show would be for the bow and stern pulpits to attach the legs to the deck. The legs have a nut welded up inside that the all-thread threads into, add a fender washer, poke through hole in deck or combing and add a fender washer and lock washer below and then the nut and tighten from below.

 

[Kommy000]

On my Cherubini 25 the bolt you show would be for the bow and stern pulpits to attach the legs to the deck. The legs have a nut welded up inside that the all-thread threads into, add a fender washer, poke through hole in deck or combing and add a fender washer and lock washer below and then the nut and tighten from below.

Yea, thats what I ended up doing and then using PL5200 in gaps around the post. Seems like not as strong and sturdy like the rest of them on the back of the boat with solid bases. I'm thinking I will remove the old caulk or whatever it is around the posts and re tighten them with bigger washers and use PL5200 as a new sealant around the posts . Still wondering why they did the front with threaded posts only and the back with nice solid bases to hold them in place