Many thanks to all that replied to my previous posting in this area of the Hunter Owners Site. Most helpful getting all the insite into the Handling/seakeeping abilities of the boat from those that have sailed them for a while. I now have some technical concerns to discuss after looking over the surveyors shoulder, and viewing the sails/equipment in storage for the winter. The surveyor found several voids in the hull where the glass/resin were not laid-up properly (aprox 3" dia), but claims this can be cut back filled and painted . Also found several gaps in the keel/hull joint that need repairing. Are these things common/serious? Also found that the boat's toerail had been damaged, and toerail on both sides replced with ones from a Hunter 35. Which made me notice the exterior hull/deck joint, bolts are accesable enough but exterior flange could get caught on the edge of wharf/pilings. What's everyones thoughts here? One other items of concern were, when tracing hoses/tru-hulls is the total lack of accesss to the aft interior of the hull bottom due to the liner covering the fuel/holding tanks. Is there any way to access this area, and where do the shower /cockpit drains go to?? Are there thru-hull/seacocks for these? Another item noticed was the play in the rudder stock, is this common/serious?? Lots of questions I know, but once again hoping for some insight/experience from you folks! Thanks Eric Grant
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
J
Jay Hill
Partial Response
Can't answer all but here's some info: 1. Gaps in keel/hull joint: Common: Yes (to my knowledge; my 31' had the same thing.) Serious: It can get that way if left to corrode. Relatively simple to repair, however, and if not effecting the structure of the boat, negligable (to me.) 2. Toe rail issue: Same type of toerail as my 31'. Bent it once on a pier stabilizer upright that was the perfect height to catch the under side of the rail. Otherwise I like that the toe rail sticks out from the side an inch or two; it acts as toe rail and rub rail in one. The bad part is that the stanchions are angled outboard. This is great for walking forward on the decks while heeled over, but the top end of the stanchion is the first thing to get caught on a piling, tall pier, or other structure; a real pain. This is no big deal if you always pull into the slip with wind on the nose or stern as you can pull straight into "whatever". If you get a cross breeze, however, it's hard to keep the stanchions off pilings. Big deal? Not really, just be careful. 3. Shower will drain into main bilge, no separate sump or seacock required. Cockpit scuppers have their own drain hose which exit just under the lower edge of the transom; no seacock required.
Can't answer all but here's some info: 1. Gaps in keel/hull joint: Common: Yes (to my knowledge; my 31' had the same thing.) Serious: It can get that way if left to corrode. Relatively simple to repair, however, and if not effecting the structure of the boat, negligable (to me.) 2. Toe rail issue: Same type of toerail as my 31'. Bent it once on a pier stabilizer upright that was the perfect height to catch the under side of the rail. Otherwise I like that the toe rail sticks out from the side an inch or two; it acts as toe rail and rub rail in one. The bad part is that the stanchions are angled outboard. This is great for walking forward on the decks while heeled over, but the top end of the stanchion is the first thing to get caught on a piling, tall pier, or other structure; a real pain. This is no big deal if you always pull into the slip with wind on the nose or stern as you can pull straight into "whatever". If you get a cross breeze, however, it's hard to keep the stanchions off pilings. Big deal? Not really, just be careful. 3. Shower will drain into main bilge, no separate sump or seacock required. Cockpit scuppers have their own drain hose which exit just under the lower edge of the transom; no seacock required.
E
Eric
MYSTERY INFO
I would be curious of what the secret info another writer to this forum would only be willing to share in such a confidential manner. Any boat can be torn to shreds on a thread such as this. Usually most problems are those unique to a particular boat. For example, blistering, laminate problem, leaks etc. I will say, that looking at the Catalina and Hunter pages, some models have what I would call specific problems in construction. I have not detected this with 28.5. and I have been reading this thread for over a year. As for it being a pig boat, it will easily achieve its theoretical hull speed. Anybody that SIGNIFICANTLY complains about handling under power demonstrates his/her inexperience in boat handling. These are not cars. All boats have their own quirks. My advice is to look at what your budget and see what else is out there for the same money. If you have doubts about the Hunter then don't buy it because you will only remember the negative vibes. On the other hand, what other boat besides the Catalina and Hunter can you have so much honest , although biased, information. Try and get this much comment on an O'Day, Pearson etc. One last thought, These are 12- 15 year old boats and will have some issues due to age. Good luck in your search.
I would be curious of what the secret info another writer to this forum would only be willing to share in such a confidential manner. Any boat can be torn to shreds on a thread such as this. Usually most problems are those unique to a particular boat. For example, blistering, laminate problem, leaks etc. I will say, that looking at the Catalina and Hunter pages, some models have what I would call specific problems in construction. I have not detected this with 28.5. and I have been reading this thread for over a year. As for it being a pig boat, it will easily achieve its theoretical hull speed. Anybody that SIGNIFICANTLY complains about handling under power demonstrates his/her inexperience in boat handling. These are not cars. All boats have their own quirks. My advice is to look at what your budget and see what else is out there for the same money. If you have doubts about the Hunter then don't buy it because you will only remember the negative vibes. On the other hand, what other boat besides the Catalina and Hunter can you have so much honest , although biased, information. Try and get this much comment on an O'Day, Pearson etc. One last thought, These are 12- 15 year old boats and will have some issues due to age. Good luck in your search.
J
Jim McCue
28.8 shower drain!
The shower/head floor has a drain hole that bleeds into or more like towardsthe bilge. Yopu will be "shipping" the shower water between your ribs until it finally gets to the bilge. I would have had it designed with a direct drain tube into the bilge to reduce all the wetness thruought the boat's interior. Microbial growth al all
The shower/head floor has a drain hole that bleeds into or more like towardsthe bilge. Yopu will be "shipping" the shower water between your ribs until it finally gets to the bilge. I would have had it designed with a direct drain tube into the bilge to reduce all the wetness thruought the boat's interior. Microbial growth al all
D
Dave McIlveen
28.5 CONCERNS
Eric: I have a 1985 Hunter 28.5 which I purchased in 1997. I have 2 seasons on the boat. I did extensive research on various boats before buying the Hunter. I have monitored this website for the past 2 1/2 years. With regard to the "voids" in the hull laminate, I suggest you get a fibreglass expert to look at this. Can't recall anything on this site about voids on any Hunter hull. The 28.5 has a cast iron keel which is bolted to the hull. Main consideration is to insure there is no leakage at this joint. Joint should be sealed every few years as required. As well the keel itself should be epoxied unless you don't mind rust! Lots of posts on this site about the hull/keel joint. This is a normal maintenance item. I have the original toerail and the outside edge has a flange which pretty well covers the toerail bolts. This would concern me. What happened to the original toerail? Corrosion or mechanical damage? There is access to the aft area where the rudder post, exhaust hose outlet and scuppers are located. Access is by removing the bulkhead at the back of the aft berth. This is very tight space to work in! The fuel and holding tanks are glassed in. Liner would have to be cut out to remove either tank. Tanks have not been a problem on the 28.5. Access to steering assembly is through the starboard cockpit locker and by removing an access panel in the ceiling of the aft berth. As mentioned previously, the shower drains to the main bilge (via a hose as I recall!). The cockpit scuppers are crossed (to prevent flooding when heeled) and drain through thruhulls aft near the transom - no seacocks necessary. There should be no play in the rudder stock. Something not right here. Is the play in the wheel/cable assembly or in the rudder stock itself? Wheel play can be adjusted. This is one of the most popular and reliable Hunters based on my experience watching this site and owning the boat. However this particular boat seems to have more problems than normal. I hope this is of some help to you. Regards, Dave McIlveen 28.5 Osprey - Fredericton NB dmcilveen@compufred.com
Eric: I have a 1985 Hunter 28.5 which I purchased in 1997. I have 2 seasons on the boat. I did extensive research on various boats before buying the Hunter. I have monitored this website for the past 2 1/2 years. With regard to the "voids" in the hull laminate, I suggest you get a fibreglass expert to look at this. Can't recall anything on this site about voids on any Hunter hull. The 28.5 has a cast iron keel which is bolted to the hull. Main consideration is to insure there is no leakage at this joint. Joint should be sealed every few years as required. As well the keel itself should be epoxied unless you don't mind rust! Lots of posts on this site about the hull/keel joint. This is a normal maintenance item. I have the original toerail and the outside edge has a flange which pretty well covers the toerail bolts. This would concern me. What happened to the original toerail? Corrosion or mechanical damage? There is access to the aft area where the rudder post, exhaust hose outlet and scuppers are located. Access is by removing the bulkhead at the back of the aft berth. This is very tight space to work in! The fuel and holding tanks are glassed in. Liner would have to be cut out to remove either tank. Tanks have not been a problem on the 28.5. Access to steering assembly is through the starboard cockpit locker and by removing an access panel in the ceiling of the aft berth. As mentioned previously, the shower drains to the main bilge (via a hose as I recall!). The cockpit scuppers are crossed (to prevent flooding when heeled) and drain through thruhulls aft near the transom - no seacocks necessary. There should be no play in the rudder stock. Something not right here. Is the play in the wheel/cable assembly or in the rudder stock itself? Wheel play can be adjusted. This is one of the most popular and reliable Hunters based on my experience watching this site and owning the boat. However this particular boat seems to have more problems than normal. I hope this is of some help to you. Regards, Dave McIlveen 28.5 Osprey - Fredericton NB dmcilveen@compufred.com
S
Stephen Ostrander
28.5
On my boat the shower drained into the bilge and the bilge pumped the water OB. I never showered on the boat because the head is pretty tight anyway. I also liked the toerail as a place to shackle halyards or snatch blocks to. My 33.5 doesn't have a toerail, and I kind of miss it. Some suggestions: 1) Add a second battery and switch and dedicate one for the house and one for starting. 2) Keep the shaft packing box adjusted. This was the source of seawater that got under the liner and sloshed around in my boat. 3) Keep the rudder shielded from direct sunlight, especially in the summer if cradled. Can cause distortion and/or separation from overheating. This is true for any boat, BTW. 4) You can access the area you mentioned from the STB lazarette, which is big enough to climb into and work if neccessary. These are great boats, if you can find a better boat for the money, buy it.
On my boat the shower drained into the bilge and the bilge pumped the water OB. I never showered on the boat because the head is pretty tight anyway. I also liked the toerail as a place to shackle halyards or snatch blocks to. My 33.5 doesn't have a toerail, and I kind of miss it. Some suggestions: 1) Add a second battery and switch and dedicate one for the house and one for starting. 2) Keep the shaft packing box adjusted. This was the source of seawater that got under the liner and sloshed around in my boat. 3) Keep the rudder shielded from direct sunlight, especially in the summer if cradled. Can cause distortion and/or separation from overheating. This is true for any boat, BTW. 4) You can access the area you mentioned from the STB lazarette, which is big enough to climb into and work if neccessary. These are great boats, if you can find a better boat for the money, buy it.
J
J. Russell
28.5 GREAT BOAT
I have owned a 28.5 for about 10 months. I bought it from a fellow who took excellent care of it and there were no problems when I purchased it. I suspect that there are many 28.5's out there in great condition. Suggest you keep looking unless the price is so good that you feel you can not pass it up.
I have owned a 28.5 for about 10 months. I bought it from a fellow who took excellent care of it and there were no problems when I purchased it. I suspect that there are many 28.5's out there in great condition. Suggest you keep looking unless the price is so good that you feel you can not pass it up.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.