On my Hunter 376 my stove lights and works fine for 15-20 minutes then shuts off. It re-lights fine but will not stay lit for long. Is the the thermocoupler? Thanks. Bob
More help on Propane oven.
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Question is unclear
What exactly is the problem? What kind of oven is it? Does it have a pilot light? Does the pilot light stay lit? Generally speaking, the pilot will not light and keep going unless the thermocouple is ok. I suppose that the thermocouple could be a problem but I doubt it if the pilot light stays lit.
What exactly is the problem? What kind of oven is it? Does it have a pilot light? Does the pilot light stay lit? Generally speaking, the pilot will not light and keep going unless the thermocouple is ok. I suppose that the thermocouple could be a problem but I doubt it if the pilot light stays lit.
This is going to sound weird
But, I had my propane tanks filled at a local gas station by my house and for some reason, when I used those tanks on any propane devices they would all have trouble staying lit. They would usually stay lit for up to 30 mins. Once they went out the first time, they would never really light back up for more than a few minutes unless they sat for quite some time. Then every time I lit them after that the problem would duplicate itself. When I used a different tank that was filled at another gas station everything worked fine. Not sure if this has anything to do with your problem. But, it might be worth trying first.
But, I had my propane tanks filled at a local gas station by my house and for some reason, when I used those tanks on any propane devices they would all have trouble staying lit. They would usually stay lit for up to 30 mins. Once they went out the first time, they would never really light back up for more than a few minutes unless they sat for quite some time. Then every time I lit them after that the problem would duplicate itself. When I used a different tank that was filled at another gas station everything worked fine. Not sure if this has anything to do with your problem. But, it might be worth trying first.
If it's the oven have the same problem
I have a 1997 h40.5 with a Seaward stove with oven. About 2 years ago I started having what sounds like the same problem. The oven will light and then a short while later we will find that the oven went out. This repeatly happens. I thought the problem was fixed back in 7/2004 but the problem has recurred. I called Seaward and asked if it could be the thermocouple. Their reply was that if the pilot is staying lit (mine isn't) then it shouldn't be the theromcouple. They suggested taking the pilot assembly apart and cleaning the orifice. They claimed that a very small speck of rust can sometimes clog the orifice and cause the pilot to go out and then the oven shuts down. I have done this cleaning task twice now. I observed no debris in the orifice either time. I even bent the thermocouple closer to the pilot flame with no benefit. It appears that the failure occurs as follows: The pilot is lit and the main burner comes. After the oven thermostat is satisfied, the main burner is shut down and at that time the pilot is somehow also extinguished. Loss of the pilot causes the safety thermocouple to disable the main gas supply to both the pilot and the main burner. I have refilled my propane tank at least once and probably twice since this trouble started in the summer of 2004. I do usually get my gas from the same dealer, but I also get my other tanks for my home BBQ filled there also- no problems with them. The thing that I see different with the stove is that when just the pilot is on the gas draw is very low. At one time I thought that the problem occurred when the gas in the tank was low, but later it recurred with a tank that was at least 1/2 full. I hate to replace stove parts that are probably good until I find the fault. The thermocouple and/or main burner control are well over $100 each. I could spent $200 or more just easter-egging parts. Totally un-sat. Trouble shooting this problem is on my spring list. This is not easy because there are so many variables to rule out. When I am at my boat I will try the following: Light the pilot and see if it will burn without asking the oven to come up to a higher temperature. IE, will the pilot simply burn by itself? Does the pilot go out if a stovetop burner is being used at the same time as the oven? My thinking here is that when the oven thermostat shuts of the main burner it somehow causes a pressure fluctuation that extinguishes the pilot at the same time. For sure this problem is a pain in the butt. We use our oven all the time- or did until now. If anyone has any ideas I wuld be most grateful to hear them.
I have a 1997 h40.5 with a Seaward stove with oven. About 2 years ago I started having what sounds like the same problem. The oven will light and then a short while later we will find that the oven went out. This repeatly happens. I thought the problem was fixed back in 7/2004 but the problem has recurred. I called Seaward and asked if it could be the thermocouple. Their reply was that if the pilot is staying lit (mine isn't) then it shouldn't be the theromcouple. They suggested taking the pilot assembly apart and cleaning the orifice. They claimed that a very small speck of rust can sometimes clog the orifice and cause the pilot to go out and then the oven shuts down. I have done this cleaning task twice now. I observed no debris in the orifice either time. I even bent the thermocouple closer to the pilot flame with no benefit. It appears that the failure occurs as follows: The pilot is lit and the main burner comes. After the oven thermostat is satisfied, the main burner is shut down and at that time the pilot is somehow also extinguished. Loss of the pilot causes the safety thermocouple to disable the main gas supply to both the pilot and the main burner. I have refilled my propane tank at least once and probably twice since this trouble started in the summer of 2004. I do usually get my gas from the same dealer, but I also get my other tanks for my home BBQ filled there also- no problems with them. The thing that I see different with the stove is that when just the pilot is on the gas draw is very low. At one time I thought that the problem occurred when the gas in the tank was low, but later it recurred with a tank that was at least 1/2 full. I hate to replace stove parts that are probably good until I find the fault. The thermocouple and/or main burner control are well over $100 each. I could spent $200 or more just easter-egging parts. Totally un-sat. Trouble shooting this problem is on my spring list. This is not easy because there are so many variables to rule out. When I am at my boat I will try the following: Light the pilot and see if it will burn without asking the oven to come up to a higher temperature. IE, will the pilot simply burn by itself? Does the pilot go out if a stovetop burner is being used at the same time as the oven? My thinking here is that when the oven thermostat shuts of the main burner it somehow causes a pressure fluctuation that extinguishes the pilot at the same time. For sure this problem is a pain in the butt. We use our oven all the time- or did until now. If anyone has any ideas I wuld be most grateful to hear them.
Clarification
Pilot light also goes out along with oven. So I have to relight pilot then turn oven back on.
Pilot light also goes out along with oven. So I have to relight pilot then turn oven back on.
Adjust pilot light
if that doesn't fix it, adjust the position of the thermocouple. If that doesn't do it, replace thermocouple. If you have cleaned the orifice, there is not too much else it could be.
if that doesn't fix it, adjust the position of the thermocouple. If that doesn't do it, replace thermocouple. If you have cleaned the orifice, there is not too much else it could be.
How about the solenoid valve?
If the same problem occurs on both oven and stove top burners, your gas solenoid could be bad. I had to replace mine after experiencing the same "lights, burns OK for a few minutes, then goes out" symptoms.
If the same problem occurs on both oven and stove top burners, your gas solenoid could be bad. I had to replace mine after experiencing the same "lights, burns OK for a few minutes, then goes out" symptoms.
Bob, how about the stove-top burners?
Do they work OK? Mine do. It's just the oven that keeps going out. I hate to make assumptions, even reasonable ones, because I have found that an assumption will steer me away from finding a fault. But let's consider the following: If the stove-top burners work fine at all levels of flame, I would *think* that would rule out a bad solenoid. Right or Wrong? If the pilot will light and remain lit after the over-ride is released, doesn't that indicate that the thermocouple is OK? Right or wrong? If the above are both true, then something else is causing the pilot to go out. But what? In my case, I have cleaned the orifice and I have moved the thermocouple closer to the pilot and I STILL have the problem. The thermocouple is not a separate item but is part of the safety valve assembly. Well over $100 as I remember. And Seaward claims that they either work or don't work- there's no "in-between". That fact doesn't really encourage me to replace this part.
Do they work OK? Mine do. It's just the oven that keeps going out. I hate to make assumptions, even reasonable ones, because I have found that an assumption will steer me away from finding a fault. But let's consider the following: If the stove-top burners work fine at all levels of flame, I would *think* that would rule out a bad solenoid. Right or Wrong? If the pilot will light and remain lit after the over-ride is released, doesn't that indicate that the thermocouple is OK? Right or wrong? If the above are both true, then something else is causing the pilot to go out. But what? In my case, I have cleaned the orifice and I have moved the thermocouple closer to the pilot and I STILL have the problem. The thermocouple is not a separate item but is part of the safety valve assembly. Well over $100 as I remember. And Seaward claims that they either work or don't work- there's no "in-between". That fact doesn't really encourage me to replace this part.
To: Rich in Bristol RI
Stove top works great. Just the oven shuts off after abt 20 minutes. I need to relite pilot and then stove relites too. But it goes out again. maybe something to do with the thermostat the regulates over temp??? Anyway, making brownies while on the hook is a pain. I'll do some R&R and clean things out next time I'm in the mood. Bob
Stove top works great. Just the oven shuts off after abt 20 minutes. I need to relite pilot and then stove relites too. But it goes out again. maybe something to do with the thermostat the regulates over temp??? Anyway, making brownies while on the hook is a pain. I'll do some R&R and clean things out next time I'm in the mood. Bob
Not likely the solenoid
if it runs for more than a few seconds. Isn't there a pilot light adjustment? Otherwise my vote is on the thermocouple or regulator.
if it runs for more than a few seconds. Isn't there a pilot light adjustment? Otherwise my vote is on the thermocouple or regulator.
How Does it Work?
I see it this way. To ensure no gas leakage into the boat should the gas bottle run out and a fresh one be connected, the stat must be capable of shutting off the entire supply to the oven. To light the oven in the first place it is necessary to bypass the stat's supply to the pilot jet and this is done by holding in the red button next to the oven temp control tap. Once the pilot has heated a small cylinder on the stat it then allows the gas through to the main burner. After the oven reaches the selected temperature the stat shuts off the main burner, but if the small cylinder heated by the pilot is not still hot enough it shuts the whole oven down. Perhaps there is a way to prove this:- 1) Light the oven as normal, but devise a means of holding the red button in for at least 20 mins. 2) Don't leave the oven for a moment. 3) Wait the normal 20 mins to reach full temp and see if it still shuts down with the pilot going out. 4) If the oven does not close down and the pilot is still alight, then it is a fault in the servo control to the pilot jet. This will probably mean an all new stat. Remember this is just a test run. DO NOT CONTINUE THIS PROCESS FOR NORMAL USE OR YOU MAY MEET YOUR MAKER SOONER THAN YOU EXPECTED.
I see it this way. To ensure no gas leakage into the boat should the gas bottle run out and a fresh one be connected, the stat must be capable of shutting off the entire supply to the oven. To light the oven in the first place it is necessary to bypass the stat's supply to the pilot jet and this is done by holding in the red button next to the oven temp control tap. Once the pilot has heated a small cylinder on the stat it then allows the gas through to the main burner. After the oven reaches the selected temperature the stat shuts off the main burner, but if the small cylinder heated by the pilot is not still hot enough it shuts the whole oven down. Perhaps there is a way to prove this:- 1) Light the oven as normal, but devise a means of holding the red button in for at least 20 mins. 2) Don't leave the oven for a moment. 3) Wait the normal 20 mins to reach full temp and see if it still shuts down with the pilot going out. 4) If the oven does not close down and the pilot is still alight, then it is a fault in the servo control to the pilot jet. This will probably mean an all new stat. Remember this is just a test run. DO NOT CONTINUE THIS PROCESS FOR NORMAL USE OR YOU MAY MEET YOUR MAKER SOONER THAN YOU EXPECTED.
european style burners??
I had a problem similar to this with my Seaward three burner +oven stove. At some point I noticed that the euro style burners (base and jets with a removable iron "cover") that made up the stove burners also was the heat device for the oven. I also noticed that the "cover" wasn't sitting on the base in the correct position. The flame would not function correctly and also afected the pilot. Correcting the "covers" positioning solved my problem. Good luck
I had a problem similar to this with my Seaward three burner +oven stove. At some point I noticed that the euro style burners (base and jets with a removable iron "cover") that made up the stove burners also was the heat device for the oven. I also noticed that the "cover" wasn't sitting on the base in the correct position. The flame would not function correctly and also afected the pilot. Correcting the "covers" positioning solved my problem. Good luck
Regarding holding the safety down...
In 2004 I seem to remember jamming the safety in the depressed position so that the oven would be useable. It was a somewhat desparate attempt to get through the weekend and use the damn oven. After speaking later with Seaward, and learning of the potential benefit of cleaning the pilot orifice, I did that action the following weekend. Results seemed positive, the oven stayed lit, and I thought the problem was solved. However, 4-6 weeks later the problem reappeared. Now it was close to winter haulout so we just did without using the oven and cooked more on the BBQ. At the beginning of 2005, I cleaned the orifice again and moved the thermocouple closer to the flame of the pilot. I *think* it seemed a little better, but the pilot was still going out and the safety shutting off. I keep coming back to the Seaward statement about the safety valve and thermocouple unit: "It either works or it doesn't work. It is not something that is prone to be intermittent. And it is a low failure rate item. We have very little trouble with them." Based upon those statements, it doesn't look like a good bet to replace the safety. But....???
In 2004 I seem to remember jamming the safety in the depressed position so that the oven would be useable. It was a somewhat desparate attempt to get through the weekend and use the damn oven. After speaking later with Seaward, and learning of the potential benefit of cleaning the pilot orifice, I did that action the following weekend. Results seemed positive, the oven stayed lit, and I thought the problem was solved. However, 4-6 weeks later the problem reappeared. Now it was close to winter haulout so we just did without using the oven and cooked more on the BBQ. At the beginning of 2005, I cleaned the orifice again and moved the thermocouple closer to the flame of the pilot. I *think* it seemed a little better, but the pilot was still going out and the safety shutting off. I keep coming back to the Seaward statement about the safety valve and thermocouple unit: "It either works or it doesn't work. It is not something that is prone to be intermittent. And it is a low failure rate item. We have very little trouble with them." Based upon those statements, it doesn't look like a good bet to replace the safety. But....???
Patrick: There is no pilot adjustment....
The unit has a fixed jet. It is just a pin hole in a small metal cap. I've entertained the idea of opening up that hole just a bit to create a larger pilot flame and put more heat on the thermocouple, but I haven't yet. I always hesitate (just a little) regarding a redesign on something that I am not an expert.
The unit has a fixed jet. It is just a pin hole in a small metal cap. I've entertained the idea of opening up that hole just a bit to create a larger pilot flame and put more heat on the thermocouple, but I haven't yet. I always hesitate (just a little) regarding a redesign on something that I am not an expert.
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