We find that our 33 does not do well in a headwind under power. I would like to here from people who have 1 Replaced the diesel with a larger unit 2 Replaced the prop with a larger 2 blade or a 3 blade
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Don Connolly
Try a three blade prop
MeEllis is powered by a three bladed prop and I have no problems powering thru winward slop. Also maneuvering power both fwrd. & reverse is better.
MeEllis is powered by a three bladed prop and I have no problems powering thru winward slop. Also maneuvering power both fwrd. & reverse is better.
Is your engine putting out?
Steve: I am not sure which engine you have but the first things to check would be to make sure your engine in running properly. Which engine do you have? Make sure that you are getting max RPM's from the engine under load. Is your bottom clean? A dirty bottom can make a BIG difference in speed. If your engine is not running properly you can check the mixing elbow, injectors, fuel and filters. Just a few things to check. After these things you should have your existing prop checked to make sure you have the correct pitch and prop size for the boat/engine combination.
Steve: I am not sure which engine you have but the first things to check would be to make sure your engine in running properly. Which engine do you have? Make sure that you are getting max RPM's from the engine under load. Is your bottom clean? A dirty bottom can make a BIG difference in speed. If your engine is not running properly you can check the mixing elbow, injectors, fuel and filters. Just a few things to check. After these things you should have your existing prop checked to make sure you have the correct pitch and prop size for the boat/engine combination.
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Steve Beynon
More info
We have the 18 HP Yanmar Diesel. I have talked to a couple of other owners of similar models and they have expressed the same complaint. One owner said he just reved up the motor and blasted through the waves. I prefer to keep the revs down so am looking for more pitch and less revs. The motor seems to rum smoothly. There is no bottom buildup in the North Channel over a summer.
We have the 18 HP Yanmar Diesel. I have talked to a couple of other owners of similar models and they have expressed the same complaint. One owner said he just reved up the motor and blasted through the waves. I prefer to keep the revs down so am looking for more pitch and less revs. The motor seems to rum smoothly. There is no bottom buildup in the North Channel over a summer.
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carol donovan
3-blade
Steve: I replaced my 2-blade prop with a 3-blade, and it made all the difference in the world. Due to an unusual docking situation, I had to back my H33 out of her slip down a very narrow channel past a dozen boats and the 3-blade prop helped to steer straight and tight. But it really paid for itself the day we were caught in a bad storm as well as in an oil tanker's prop wash - without the 3-blade prop we would have been sitting on the breakwater. After that incident I never worried about headway again! Had Wilmington Prop make it - $280. /c
Steve: I replaced my 2-blade prop with a 3-blade, and it made all the difference in the world. Due to an unusual docking situation, I had to back my H33 out of her slip down a very narrow channel past a dozen boats and the 3-blade prop helped to steer straight and tight. But it really paid for itself the day we were caught in a bad storm as well as in an oil tanker's prop wash - without the 3-blade prop we would have been sitting on the breakwater. After that incident I never worried about headway again! Had Wilmington Prop make it - $280. /c
Here is the scoop
Steve: These engines (when properly cared for) will last between 12,000-15,000 hours. Probably longer than most of us will own them. The design specs are for the engines to produce full horsepower at 3600 rpm's (18+). They should be run at 70-80% of this rating when motoring. I hear a lot of owners saying that they are running as 2000-2200 rpms. This is too low. Low RPM's causes coking of the mixing elbow and inadequate cooling. Run your engine at 2500-2900 rpms and it will be happy. Be sure that you change your oil at least every fall and don't forget the fuel filters. Be sure to add biocide to the fuel to prevent micro-organism growth in the fuel. If you are not getting the proper power at these RPM's I would suggest that you take the suggestions of the other owners that have switched to a three blade. It will slow you down when you are sailing but maybe it will be a good trade off. PS: What RPM's are you running your engine at?
Steve: These engines (when properly cared for) will last between 12,000-15,000 hours. Probably longer than most of us will own them. The design specs are for the engines to produce full horsepower at 3600 rpm's (18+). They should be run at 70-80% of this rating when motoring. I hear a lot of owners saying that they are running as 2000-2200 rpms. This is too low. Low RPM's causes coking of the mixing elbow and inadequate cooling. Run your engine at 2500-2900 rpms and it will be happy. Be sure that you change your oil at least every fall and don't forget the fuel filters. Be sure to add biocide to the fuel to prevent micro-organism growth in the fuel. If you are not getting the proper power at these RPM's I would suggest that you take the suggestions of the other owners that have switched to a three blade. It will slow you down when you are sailing but maybe it will be a good trade off. PS: What RPM's are you running your engine at?
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Jim Logan
Diesel Power for H33
A question that may be relevant to owners of older Hunters. Many older Hunters (like my 1980 33) have 2QM-15 engines instead of the later 2GM series. While the engines appear to be the same, the data plate on mine shows rated rpm as being 3000 rpm instead of the 3600 for the 2GM series. Does anybody know anything about this? It would seem that trying to get your 2QM up to 3600 rpm could lead to "interesting" failures. Does anybody know what the real story is?
A question that may be relevant to owners of older Hunters. Many older Hunters (like my 1980 33) have 2QM-15 engines instead of the later 2GM series. While the engines appear to be the same, the data plate on mine shows rated rpm as being 3000 rpm instead of the 3600 for the 2GM series. Does anybody know anything about this? It would seem that trying to get your 2QM up to 3600 rpm could lead to "interesting" failures. Does anybody know what the real story is?
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Steve Beynon
No RPM meter
My biggedt problem is I don't have the RPM meter on my Yanmar panel. What I have been doing is setting the throttle where the boat would be doing 5.5 knots in calm conditions. I have talked to some owners and they use 6.0 setting, but this seems to me to be pushing it a bit.
My biggedt problem is I don't have the RPM meter on my Yanmar panel. What I have been doing is setting the throttle where the boat would be doing 5.5 knots in calm conditions. I have talked to some owners and they use 6.0 setting, but this seems to me to be pushing it a bit.
H'33 where are you?
You owners of the older 2qm-15's should get ahold of the Yanmar distributors in your area and get the scoop on these engines. I would think that using boat speed as an indication engine RPM is a little dangerous. I know that my boat picked up over 1 knot with a clean bottom. So the question is are you running your engines at 50% or 90% if you do not have a tach?
You owners of the older 2qm-15's should get ahold of the Yanmar distributors in your area and get the scoop on these engines. I would think that using boat speed as an indication engine RPM is a little dangerous. I know that my boat picked up over 1 knot with a clean bottom. So the question is are you running your engines at 50% or 90% if you do not have a tach?
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