So my batteries need replacing I have two 8 year old gel cels group 27 that are just plain tuckered out- I was thinking of 2 six volts and a group 27 for starting - I have the standard 1 -2- Off-all switch and the regular alternator can I do this Also I am planning to add an atachement to the mast to clip my whisker pole- what's the best to accomplish this - sheet metal screws or rivets or something else - Thanks
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Yes
I take it you are replacing your gels with flooded batteries. Do not mix the two. Also, you probably do not need a group 27 for starting. An automotive starting battery will probably do the job just fine. Don't waste money on a heavy duty, dedicated starting battery that will seldom be needed. A resourceful person might get a starting battery that fits his current car. THe interchangeability might be useful when the car battery flags mid-winter. Replace it with the boat battery and get a new boat battery in spring.
I take it you are replacing your gels with flooded batteries. Do not mix the two. Also, you probably do not need a group 27 for starting. An automotive starting battery will probably do the job just fine. Don't waste money on a heavy duty, dedicated starting battery that will seldom be needed. A resourceful person might get a starting battery that fits his current car. THe interchangeability might be useful when the car battery flags mid-winter. Replace it with the boat battery and get a new boat battery in spring.
Good Idea, Nigel
I did exactly what you are suggesting, for quite a few years. I would start the engine on the group 27, shift the switch to All, after a couple of warm-up minutes, and then shift to just the house 6 volt batteries after about fifteen minutes. Worked just fine. If you pay attention to your battery selection switch, you don't need isolators, combiners, or anything else, and you can mix batteries. Just remember, it is not an Idiot-proof system, but having to think now and then is not all bad, either!
I did exactly what you are suggesting, for quite a few years. I would start the engine on the group 27, shift the switch to All, after a couple of warm-up minutes, and then shift to just the house 6 volt batteries after about fifteen minutes. Worked just fine. If you pay attention to your battery selection switch, you don't need isolators, combiners, or anything else, and you can mix batteries. Just remember, it is not an Idiot-proof system, but having to think now and then is not all bad, either!
Disagree with prior responses, but yes you can.
Nigal, You can do what you want, but I disagree with something in each prior response. First, don't get a regular "car" battery. Diesels require a little bit more to get them going, so I would go for a marine that is used for diesels. Also, with only one house bank, it may come to use to back up your house on the rare occasion. Second, while the engine is running (charging) you may get by with mixing batteries, but the AC charger will not like it at all. The newer ones have settings for wet, gel, etc., and that controls the cutoff-at-full-charge voltage, as well as the "quick charge" amperage levels. You could cook one type to make the happy. Don't mix the types, go with all gel or all wet. If you are interested, I have a setup with two house banks using 4 six-volts and a 5th battery for a starter. it could be modified for 2 12-volt house and a single starter to give the same arrangement as you might be looking for. The advanage is that the house banks are always isolated, and everything is always charging without touching any of the battery selector switches. No "forgetting", and you still can switch for backing up a dead bank somewhere. Good luck, Steve
Nigal, You can do what you want, but I disagree with something in each prior response. First, don't get a regular "car" battery. Diesels require a little bit more to get them going, so I would go for a marine that is used for diesels. Also, with only one house bank, it may come to use to back up your house on the rare occasion. Second, while the engine is running (charging) you may get by with mixing batteries, but the AC charger will not like it at all. The newer ones have settings for wet, gel, etc., and that controls the cutoff-at-full-charge voltage, as well as the "quick charge" amperage levels. You could cook one type to make the happy. Don't mix the types, go with all gel or all wet. If you are interested, I have a setup with two house banks using 4 six-volts and a 5th battery for a starter. it could be modified for 2 12-volt house and a single starter to give the same arrangement as you might be looking for. The advanage is that the house banks are always isolated, and everything is always charging without touching any of the battery selector switches. No "forgetting", and you still can switch for backing up a dead bank somewhere. Good luck, Steve
Agree with Steve
Since you're going for a new set of batteries anyway I'd go for 4 marine type. You should never run your batteries below 50% of the rated capacity and since 50% is still plenty of power to start your engine why not have two fully useful banks. You can switch back and forth to insure that all the batteries are being used and start off either or both banks... It works for me... Ron/KA5HZV
Since you're going for a new set of batteries anyway I'd go for 4 marine type. You should never run your batteries below 50% of the rated capacity and since 50% is still plenty of power to start your engine why not have two fully useful banks. You can switch back and forth to insure that all the batteries are being used and start off either or both banks... It works for me... Ron/KA5HZV
Machine Screws
Nigel, Others can talk about the batteries. But I would use machine screws to attach anything to the mast. Just get the proper length ss machine screw and the appropriate drill bit and tap. Use plenty of oil when cutting the threads and an anti-seize when installing the screws. Sheet metal screws will not get enough "bite" in the thick wall of the mast. They are made for thin wall metals like drain spouts. You don't want your pole to fall to the deck with the first wave. Good luck, Les s/v Mutual Fun
Nigel, Others can talk about the batteries. But I would use machine screws to attach anything to the mast. Just get the proper length ss machine screw and the appropriate drill bit and tap. Use plenty of oil when cutting the threads and an anti-seize when installing the screws. Sheet metal screws will not get enough "bite" in the thick wall of the mast. They are made for thin wall metals like drain spouts. You don't want your pole to fall to the deck with the first wave. Good luck, Les s/v Mutual Fun
More on Les
Another good reason to use machine screws for mounting anything on the mast or boom is that their blunt ends are less likely to snag the halyards and wires that are running inside. Rivets and sheet metal screws leave pointy ends exposed inside the mast or boom where halyards, outhauls, reefing lines, topping lifts, etc. need to move freely. Even machine screws will snag if they are too long. Good Luck, Ron s/v Conterpoint
Another good reason to use machine screws for mounting anything on the mast or boom is that their blunt ends are less likely to snag the halyards and wires that are running inside. Rivets and sheet metal screws leave pointy ends exposed inside the mast or boom where halyards, outhauls, reefing lines, topping lifts, etc. need to move freely. Even machine screws will snag if they are too long. Good Luck, Ron s/v Conterpoint
clarification for Steve and Ron
When I used Nigel's proposed set-up, I ran my charger system through the selector switch, too, and had a separate one for the solar panels. Yes, you have to remember what is going on, but there is nothing else to fail. The starter battery does not have to be "diesel", just get the one with the greatest cold-cranking amps, which is what tells you how big an engine you can spin. At one point, I also had a system that had one starter battery, and four group 27 gels in parallel for the house bank, but eventually I went back to two banks of golf car batteries, which I agree gives you more capacity. I was not saying that Nigel's system was ideal, but I WAS saying that it works, both in theory and in practice, and if finances or space are at premiums it will do just fine. I used that set up for four and a half years of hard cruising and living aboard.
When I used Nigel's proposed set-up, I ran my charger system through the selector switch, too, and had a separate one for the solar panels. Yes, you have to remember what is going on, but there is nothing else to fail. The starter battery does not have to be "diesel", just get the one with the greatest cold-cranking amps, which is what tells you how big an engine you can spin. At one point, I also had a system that had one starter battery, and four group 27 gels in parallel for the house bank, but eventually I went back to two banks of golf car batteries, which I agree gives you more capacity. I was not saying that Nigel's system was ideal, but I WAS saying that it works, both in theory and in practice, and if finances or space are at premiums it will do just fine. I used that set up for four and a half years of hard cruising and living aboard.
Drilling
When drilling and taping into aluminum try to use an aluminum cutting because the drill and tap will tend to gaul-up otherwise. Bought some A-9 several years ago and it works much better than cutting fluid designed for use on steel.
When drilling and taping into aluminum try to use an aluminum cutting because the drill and tap will tend to gaul-up otherwise. Bought some A-9 several years ago and it works much better than cutting fluid designed for use on steel.
thread tapping in aluminum
The link is to a chart for drill sizes in aluminum for thread tapping. I was surprised that the size may be different depending on the material being threaded.
The link is to a chart for drill sizes in aluminum for thread tapping. I was surprised that the size may be different depending on the material being threaded.
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