Ok, a newbie question. I currently have a slip that I back into and tie off from both sides. This works nicely as I don't need fenders, etc since the boat is centered in the slip with spring lines etc and enough slack to accomodate the tide. Only problem is, this slip is on the block and may be sold. I have a guarantee on it for the 2007 season, but after that it's anyone's guess. It belongs to a friend of mine. He has another slip which is now open that I could move to and pretty much guarantee that it will not be sold. This slip parallels the shoreline with the dock along the outboard rail and across the one end. There is another boat that moors to the outboard side of the dock. My question has to do with mooring in this slip. I know how to run spring lines and secure to the dock from the one side but what is a good way to do this and account for the tide without the boat moving around alot? I've looked at mooring whips but they are a bit pricey. Anything cheaper? I can install hardware as needed. I was almost thinking of a line from shore to hold the boat off somewhat. There is nothing there to secure to at this time. I could possibly sink a pole or something to run a line to and buoy the end for when I'm out. Also, the prevailing wind would be pushing the boat toward the dock. Any ideas? -John
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
S
Steve Paul
Tide rollers
No we don't have tides in Indiana, but a friend of mine in Miami had tide rollers installed this year. They are simply two stainless tubes with cars that move up and down with the tide. The boat is secured to these cars by ropes, fenders and cleats. Works pretty well I'm told. Your idea of creating a mooring ring or two on shore is a cheapest alternative i believe. If the ground will allow it, you need a couple of anchors driven down 4 or 5 feet minimum. Talk to the phone or electric guys, maybe the cable company and see if you can buy a couple of these. There are several types and they're almost always galvanized with a large thimble on the end. The type Ilike best must be buried using a post hole digger, then a large pipe is slid down the anchor rod until the clam at the bottom has it's feet spread out. Then fill in the hole and tie up the boat. There are screw types but you'll need a power take off to get this in the ground. Let us know how this ends up. Steve P.
No we don't have tides in Indiana, but a friend of mine in Miami had tide rollers installed this year. They are simply two stainless tubes with cars that move up and down with the tide. The boat is secured to these cars by ropes, fenders and cleats. Works pretty well I'm told. Your idea of creating a mooring ring or two on shore is a cheapest alternative i believe. If the ground will allow it, you need a couple of anchors driven down 4 or 5 feet minimum. Talk to the phone or electric guys, maybe the cable company and see if you can buy a couple of these. There are several types and they're almost always galvanized with a large thimble on the end. The type Ilike best must be buried using a post hole digger, then a large pipe is slid down the anchor rod until the clam at the bottom has it's feet spread out. Then fill in the hole and tie up the boat. There are screw types but you'll need a power take off to get this in the ground. Let us know how this ends up. Steve P.
Moorage
Building an anchor on shore should be easy and inexpensive. A 21 inch sided cube of concrete would give you about 800 lbs which would be more than adequate. Being on shore would avoid the tide level issues of sinking the anchor off shore. Good luck Jim
Building an anchor on shore should be easy and inexpensive. A 21 inch sided cube of concrete would give you about 800 lbs which would be more than adequate. Being on shore would avoid the tide level issues of sinking the anchor off shore. Good luck Jim
J
J. Barrett
Taking the slip
Steve and Jim- Thanks for the input. I'm going to go ahead and move to the inside slip. I really like being tied off on both sides but am concerned with not having a slip at all if the current one gets sold. Since my boat is on the hard for the winter I have some time to figure out exactly how I want to secure in there. Since there is some brush growing along the shore opposite the slip I may be able to use either idea for a shore line without creating an eyesore, something to consider as the neighborhood is somewhat upscale. I like the rollers as the boat can be secured to them and still ride the tide but they aren't cheap. Also, I'd have to wait for low tide and stand in three feet of water and a couple of feet of muck to install. I nearly lost my shoes there last time. Another plus that I thought of last night...when we get Nor'easters my boat (in the current slip) takes the brunt of the winds (40-50 mph+) square on the starboard bow. There isn't much wave action but the wind can get pretty rough. In the new slip it would come from the starboard quarter and push away from the docks. Plus it would be blocked somewhat by the neighboring boats and docks. That alone makes the new slip attractive. Thanks again. -John
Steve and Jim- Thanks for the input. I'm going to go ahead and move to the inside slip. I really like being tied off on both sides but am concerned with not having a slip at all if the current one gets sold. Since my boat is on the hard for the winter I have some time to figure out exactly how I want to secure in there. Since there is some brush growing along the shore opposite the slip I may be able to use either idea for a shore line without creating an eyesore, something to consider as the neighborhood is somewhat upscale. I like the rollers as the boat can be secured to them and still ride the tide but they aren't cheap. Also, I'd have to wait for low tide and stand in three feet of water and a couple of feet of muck to install. I nearly lost my shoes there last time. Another plus that I thought of last night...when we get Nor'easters my boat (in the current slip) takes the brunt of the winds (40-50 mph+) square on the starboard bow. There isn't much wave action but the wind can get pretty rough. In the new slip it would come from the starboard quarter and push away from the docks. Plus it would be blocked somewhat by the neighboring boats and docks. That alone makes the new slip attractive. Thanks again. -John
S
Steve Paul
Tie to the brush?
Not knowing the type of brush growing on shore it's possible to tie to the bottom of the brush, just above the ground. Have you ever tried to pull some bushes with a rope and vehicle? It can be tough if they're rooted at all. Might work as a temporary tie up to hold your boat off the dockside. I like the concrete block idea (meaning square of poured concrete)as it's cheap and easy to do. You could even bury them in the shoreline if aesthetics are important for your upscale neighborhood. Steve P.
Not knowing the type of brush growing on shore it's possible to tie to the bottom of the brush, just above the ground. Have you ever tried to pull some bushes with a rope and vehicle? It can be tough if they're rooted at all. Might work as a temporary tie up to hold your boat off the dockside. I like the concrete block idea (meaning square of poured concrete)as it's cheap and easy to do. You could even bury them in the shoreline if aesthetics are important for your upscale neighborhood. Steve P.
J
J. Barrett
A trip through the brush
Steve, I'm not really sure what kind of brush is growing there. I have used my jeep and winch on a number of occasions to pull brush out and you are right, some of that is pretty well anchored and would probably suffice as a temporary solution . I like the concrete block idea and may see if I can get permission to dig a hole and pour some. I have a fresh water hose there so all I would need is a form, some sacrete and a large anchor ring. I was thinking that one block, amidship along the shore would probably work. Two, of course would be better. The upscale neighborhood isn't mine. I live on the cheap side of town and rent the slip from my rich friend. I do delight in parking my beat-up, peeling paint Neon on the street there while I'm out. My friend loves to torment the neighbors as well so it's all good. I need to get over there and thoroughly examine the possibilities to figure out the best course of action. -John
Steve, I'm not really sure what kind of brush is growing there. I have used my jeep and winch on a number of occasions to pull brush out and you are right, some of that is pretty well anchored and would probably suffice as a temporary solution . I like the concrete block idea and may see if I can get permission to dig a hole and pour some. I have a fresh water hose there so all I would need is a form, some sacrete and a large anchor ring. I was thinking that one block, amidship along the shore would probably work. Two, of course would be better. The upscale neighborhood isn't mine. I live on the cheap side of town and rent the slip from my rich friend. I do delight in parking my beat-up, peeling paint Neon on the street there while I'm out. My friend loves to torment the neighbors as well so it's all good. I need to get over there and thoroughly examine the possibilities to figure out the best course of action. -John
G
Greg
Telephone pole anchors
The anchors that the phone companies use are made by AB Chance of Mo. and don't require a post hole digger. Cheaper and just as strong of an anchor can be gotten at most mobile home dealers. They use the anchors to anchor mobile homes down. The mobile home style has a U shaped channel with 2 holes in it on the top, verses the eye for a cable that the Phone pole style has. The shaft has a screw near the bottom that is twisted down into the ground. A scrap of 2x4 can be put into the slot to give you the needed leverage to twist the anchor down into the ground. I've used these for moorings too, but twisting them down into the bottom is much tougher under water. After driving them all the way in, just put a shackel through one of the holes and splice a line with a thimble on it to the anchor. This is way cheaper, faster, than using the concrete. Paid $5.00 per anchor last time I bought them. They sell a stainless marine version, called a Helical anchor, for mooring fields, BIG BUCKS.
The anchors that the phone companies use are made by AB Chance of Mo. and don't require a post hole digger. Cheaper and just as strong of an anchor can be gotten at most mobile home dealers. They use the anchors to anchor mobile homes down. The mobile home style has a U shaped channel with 2 holes in it on the top, verses the eye for a cable that the Phone pole style has. The shaft has a screw near the bottom that is twisted down into the ground. A scrap of 2x4 can be put into the slot to give you the needed leverage to twist the anchor down into the ground. I've used these for moorings too, but twisting them down into the bottom is much tougher under water. After driving them all the way in, just put a shackel through one of the holes and splice a line with a thimble on it to the anchor. This is way cheaper, faster, than using the concrete. Paid $5.00 per anchor last time I bought them. They sell a stainless marine version, called a Helical anchor, for mooring fields, BIG BUCKS.
J
J. Barrett
There's an idea
Greg, That might be the solution. I hadn't even considered the mobile home anchors. I could get a couple of those and put them in on shore, concealed in the brush to keep the homeowner's association at bay. One for the bow, one for the stern, buoy the ends of the lines to make retrieval easier....I'll have to look into that. I meant to get down there today to check things out but spent the day rebuilding the transom on my son's "new" Sunfish. Actually, it's sort of for me as well as it goes on top of the Durango while we tow the camper so I can still sail while we camp. It's amazing how cheap you can get boats that need fibreglas repair. Thanks for the idea. That might be just the ticket. -John
Greg, That might be the solution. I hadn't even considered the mobile home anchors. I could get a couple of those and put them in on shore, concealed in the brush to keep the homeowner's association at bay. One for the bow, one for the stern, buoy the ends of the lines to make retrieval easier....I'll have to look into that. I meant to get down there today to check things out but spent the day rebuilding the transom on my son's "new" Sunfish. Actually, it's sort of for me as well as it goes on top of the Durango while we tow the camper so I can still sail while we camp. It's amazing how cheap you can get boats that need fibreglas repair. Thanks for the idea. That might be just the ticket. -John
- Status
- Not open for further replies.