I asked several weeks ago about using the bow eye with a back up line when on the mooring. Several people said they used one line on the bow cleat and the other to the eye just as I asked. I would like to hear from you as to how you fasten the line to the bow eye. Do you use a "clip" such as a caribiner (spelling?) or perhaps a shackle? Thanx in advance. garyg
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Brian
the bowline saved me!
This back up system saved my h23 in a nasty nor'easter that hit the east end of LI this past fall. I knew I was going to be away from the boat for at least two consecutive weeks so I took one line to the cleat inside the anchor locker (I don't trust the deck cleats under heavy load) and after careful consideration decided to tie a bowline to the bow eye. I didn't think this back up was going to be necessary but as the storm swept up the coast and hit, I received a call a few hours later in NYC from a neighbor who informed me that my boat was the last one still attached to its mooring. 1 sail and 1 boston whaler found a spot on the beach. When I got out to the east end of LI a day later I found that my tiller had snapped under the strain of the high surf and the only line that was holding me to the mooring was the back up on the bow eye. In conclusion...the bowline knot saved me. I pulled her out the following week In the future I will probably follow this procedure but think I might use a locking caribiner to replace the bowline simply for convenience... the only added concern I've discovered recently is that the bow eye is designed to take on a direct load, not necessarily from a more lateral force as can happen on the mooring as the boat sways and swings. This might not be much of a concern being that the boat is so light, and after all it held under 50+ mph sustained winds with gusts even stronger. I'm definitely curious to see what people have to say about this set one...
This back up system saved my h23 in a nasty nor'easter that hit the east end of LI this past fall. I knew I was going to be away from the boat for at least two consecutive weeks so I took one line to the cleat inside the anchor locker (I don't trust the deck cleats under heavy load) and after careful consideration decided to tie a bowline to the bow eye. I didn't think this back up was going to be necessary but as the storm swept up the coast and hit, I received a call a few hours later in NYC from a neighbor who informed me that my boat was the last one still attached to its mooring. 1 sail and 1 boston whaler found a spot on the beach. When I got out to the east end of LI a day later I found that my tiller had snapped under the strain of the high surf and the only line that was holding me to the mooring was the back up on the bow eye. In conclusion...the bowline knot saved me. I pulled her out the following week In the future I will probably follow this procedure but think I might use a locking caribiner to replace the bowline simply for convenience... the only added concern I've discovered recently is that the bow eye is designed to take on a direct load, not necessarily from a more lateral force as can happen on the mooring as the boat sways and swings. This might not be much of a concern being that the boat is so light, and after all it held under 50+ mph sustained winds with gusts even stronger. I'm definitely curious to see what people have to say about this set one...
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Chuck
As I said..
that boweye is not for anything but pulling strait ahead on the trailer. Lateral movement can tear it out sideways. I've seen it and the damage is nasty. (that's if your lucky) If you suspect your bowcleat to be weak, REPLACE it and BACKPLATE it. I really wouldn't risk it. My rig is from a 10" bow cleat through the chocks, 2,10' 3/4" pennants, a 5/8" triangle, a foam bouy, 20' of 3/8 chain, 15' of 5/8" chain and a 1500 LB concrete block. That'll hold her. Good luck
that boweye is not for anything but pulling strait ahead on the trailer. Lateral movement can tear it out sideways. I've seen it and the damage is nasty. (that's if your lucky) If you suspect your bowcleat to be weak, REPLACE it and BACKPLATE it. I really wouldn't risk it. My rig is from a 10" bow cleat through the chocks, 2,10' 3/4" pennants, a 5/8" triangle, a foam bouy, 20' of 3/8 chain, 15' of 5/8" chain and a 1500 LB concrete block. That'll hold her. Good luck
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Brian
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Chuck
?? was what luck?
Not sure what you mean. It wasn't my boat that got messed up if that's the question.
Not sure what you mean. It wasn't my boat that got messed up if that's the question.
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john
I have always used both!
I actually use the bow eye as my principle pennant line and the one to the cleat deck as my secondary (a little bit more slack). There are several reasons for this. One...I was one of the few boats in Lewis Bay CC that survived Hurricane Bob...using this technique. I also feel that the strain on the deck cleat may actually rip the deck up in severe weather. Using the bow eye also eliminates the issue of chaffing. I use a heavy duty spring loaded glavanized steel hook. I oil it with wd 40 every so often and change it every two seasons. Never let me down!
I actually use the bow eye as my principle pennant line and the one to the cleat deck as my secondary (a little bit more slack). There are several reasons for this. One...I was one of the few boats in Lewis Bay CC that survived Hurricane Bob...using this technique. I also feel that the strain on the deck cleat may actually rip the deck up in severe weather. Using the bow eye also eliminates the issue of chaffing. I use a heavy duty spring loaded glavanized steel hook. I oil it with wd 40 every so often and change it every two seasons. Never let me down!
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Jeff Peltier
Proper sized line
One of the keys to not ripping cleats, ect. off boats and docks is not to oversize line. The stretch of the line absorbs considerable energy. I've seen bow eyes torn off boats, but all of them had short, oversided lines that allowed very little stretch. I've also seen boats tied too tight, bow and stern, which doesn't allow them to rock and roll with the waves, putting more pressure yet on the cleats and line. This can be a fine line, depending on how much room is in the slip. Jeff Peltier
One of the keys to not ripping cleats, ect. off boats and docks is not to oversize line. The stretch of the line absorbs considerable energy. I've seen bow eyes torn off boats, but all of them had short, oversided lines that allowed very little stretch. I've also seen boats tied too tight, bow and stern, which doesn't allow them to rock and roll with the waves, putting more pressure yet on the cleats and line. This can be a fine line, depending on how much room is in the slip. Jeff Peltier
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Johnny
Been there, lost my boat
I had a SanJuan24, (full keel), and dureing Isadore, a TS a year or 2 ago, I was Moored on a Helix in Harris, The Narrows. That lil storm ripped my Bow/Mooring Cleat off. On my Hunter22 I am adding Backing Plates to Bow Cleat and 2nd Bow Cleat that I am adding. This boat is on a Trailer, but in Summertime I will keep her on my Mooring Helix, that thing stayed, the boat left. Rather than useing any Pad Eyes, I am installing Bow Line Chocks and an Anchor Roller, might be overkill for a 22, but is worth the $70 to me. Allways use MORE scope than is called for in any book or guide, and someone mentioned Size of Line, that is also a good point. If your Anchoring system calls for .5", then get 1", and add 2' of Chain Rode to whatever is called for. Ya also want Anchor/Moor line that has some Stretch, to 'stiff' and it snaps.
I had a SanJuan24, (full keel), and dureing Isadore, a TS a year or 2 ago, I was Moored on a Helix in Harris, The Narrows. That lil storm ripped my Bow/Mooring Cleat off. On my Hunter22 I am adding Backing Plates to Bow Cleat and 2nd Bow Cleat that I am adding. This boat is on a Trailer, but in Summertime I will keep her on my Mooring Helix, that thing stayed, the boat left. Rather than useing any Pad Eyes, I am installing Bow Line Chocks and an Anchor Roller, might be overkill for a 22, but is worth the $70 to me. Allways use MORE scope than is called for in any book or guide, and someone mentioned Size of Line, that is also a good point. If your Anchoring system calls for .5", then get 1", and add 2' of Chain Rode to whatever is called for. Ya also want Anchor/Moor line that has some Stretch, to 'stiff' and it snaps.
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Tom
Two pennants
My 1999 H260 has 2 bow cleats, one each stb and port. I have two 3/4" diameter, 10 foot long mooring pennants, one for each cleat. This provides a backup in case one fails. The 3/4" pennant has a loop on the boat end an this is passed over the entire cleat and closed as tight as possible, then a piece of small line is wrapped around the loop and tied to prevent it from opening enough to slip off the cleat if the pennant becomes slack. Some harbor masters in the New England area require all moorings to have double pennants, to seperate cleats. Fair winds, Tom
My 1999 H260 has 2 bow cleats, one each stb and port. I have two 3/4" diameter, 10 foot long mooring pennants, one for each cleat. This provides a backup in case one fails. The 3/4" pennant has a loop on the boat end an this is passed over the entire cleat and closed as tight as possible, then a piece of small line is wrapped around the loop and tied to prevent it from opening enough to slip off the cleat if the pennant becomes slack. Some harbor masters in the New England area require all moorings to have double pennants, to seperate cleats. Fair winds, Tom
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