I've got a good crop of mold, growing primarily on the teak woodwork (which was factory-oiled with Daly's Seafin). I've got 3 active ventilators running full time, but that doesn't seem to help (guess it could be worse without them). Any suggestions? Should I stop the ventilation (which brings in humid outside air, seal the boat, and use chemical moisture absorbants instead? Thanks
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Humid huh?
George: If you have 3 ventilators, do you have them on exhaust? If you don't I think that may help. I think I would try getting a small de-humidifier that you can let drain into a sink (either the galley or head) and see if that doesn't help. Another thing that we use is one of the West Marine Air Dryers. They have a fan in the unit to circulate warm dry air to prevent mold and mildew. They cost about $45-50 but seem to do a good job. There are some others that do not have the fan and I personally do not care for them. We also use Golden Rods in areas under settees in closets etc to keep condensation from turning to mold. I guess if I were you I would probably be willing to try just about anything.
George: If you have 3 ventilators, do you have them on exhaust? If you don't I think that may help. I think I would try getting a small de-humidifier that you can let drain into a sink (either the galley or head) and see if that doesn't help. Another thing that we use is one of the West Marine Air Dryers. They have a fan in the unit to circulate warm dry air to prevent mold and mildew. They cost about $45-50 but seem to do a good job. There are some others that do not have the fan and I personally do not care for them. We also use Golden Rods in areas under settees in closets etc to keep condensation from turning to mold. I guess if I were you I would probably be willing to try just about anything.
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Steve O.
moldy oldie
You've got mold, I've got ice. I use a product called No-Damp or Damp-Rid. It's basically calcium chloride and it sucks the moisture out of the air and deposits it in a bowl under the basket. I've had good luck, but I'm in Michigan, ain't even in the same league as Texas for humidity.
You've got mold, I've got ice. I use a product called No-Damp or Damp-Rid. It's basically calcium chloride and it sucks the moisture out of the air and deposits it in a bowl under the basket. I've had good luck, but I'm in Michigan, ain't even in the same league as Texas for humidity.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Dehumidifier is the best suggestion so far
And be sure your ventilators are set to exhaust, not pull air in. I've heard that lemon oil inhibits mold and mildew. Wouldn't hurt to try it on a piece that seems most vulnerable and see what happens. It can't hurt the wood, so you have nothing to lose.
And be sure your ventilators are set to exhaust, not pull air in. I've heard that lemon oil inhibits mold and mildew. Wouldn't hurt to try it on a piece that seems most vulnerable and see what happens. It can't hurt the wood, so you have nothing to lose.
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John Visser
Why would this matter?
"And be sure your ventilators are set to exhaust, not pull air in." I don't get it. jv
"And be sure your ventilators are set to exhaust, not pull air in." I don't get it. jv
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George Kornreich
ventilator confusion
I have one in the fwd hatch blowing in and two aft sucking out. If all were on out, think I'd have a vacuum rather than airflow (if the boat were that tight, which it ain't.) But I think that if I switch to the chemical heaters/driers, it might only work if I stop ventilating, as otherwise I'm trying to dry Texas! It seems they are mutually exclusive techniques. Could be I'm missing the point, so please help if you can to clear this up
I have one in the fwd hatch blowing in and two aft sucking out. If all were on out, think I'd have a vacuum rather than airflow (if the boat were that tight, which it ain't.) But I think that if I switch to the chemical heaters/driers, it might only work if I stop ventilating, as otherwise I'm trying to dry Texas! It seems they are mutually exclusive techniques. Could be I'm missing the point, so please help if you can to clear this up
George, Just Blow it out your ..........
George: Got you going there huh? I think that the idea is to get the air/moisture that is accumulating inside the boat out. Now if you are going to add the air driers that are going to be circulating WARM DRY AIR (I know you are not used to that stuff where you live). This is good air. It is also helping to DRY out the interior. Then IF you add the de-humidifier it will just be lowing the humidity that much more. I think that you have problems other than the high relative humidity, you also have condensation inside the boat. This is what you really need to get rid of. First thing I would do is try putting your vents ALL on exhaust. This is not going to cost you anything. Then you can get the wood cleaned up. Like Peggy mentioned try the lemon or orange oils. Not only does it make the wood look better, the smell will be reduced too. PS: Are you having the mold build up in any specific spots?
George: Got you going there huh? I think that the idea is to get the air/moisture that is accumulating inside the boat out. Now if you are going to add the air driers that are going to be circulating WARM DRY AIR (I know you are not used to that stuff where you live). This is good air. It is also helping to DRY out the interior. Then IF you add the de-humidifier it will just be lowing the humidity that much more. I think that you have problems other than the high relative humidity, you also have condensation inside the boat. This is what you really need to get rid of. First thing I would do is try putting your vents ALL on exhaust. This is not going to cost you anything. Then you can get the wood cleaned up. Like Peggy mentioned try the lemon or orange oils. Not only does it make the wood look better, the smell will be reduced too. PS: Are you having the mold build up in any specific spots?
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George Kornreich
Thanks for the sugestions, Steve
No, It's not in one spot, but generally covers the teak paneling. I think that the teak oil, or what's left of it, or the teak itself, is acting as a nutrient for the mold. It all wipes away easily, but soon to return. I'll try the citrus stuff. Someone here suggested that since mold likes damp dark places, to keep a light on at all times. Sounds sort of spooky, but at least may scare away intruders, so I'll give that a whirl too, just for kicks. This seems to be primarily a winter phenomena, so we'll also see what happens when it gets warm (spelled "hot as Texas") here soon.
No, It's not in one spot, but generally covers the teak paneling. I think that the teak oil, or what's left of it, or the teak itself, is acting as a nutrient for the mold. It all wipes away easily, but soon to return. I'll try the citrus stuff. Someone here suggested that since mold likes damp dark places, to keep a light on at all times. Sounds sort of spooky, but at least may scare away intruders, so I'll give that a whirl too, just for kicks. This seems to be primarily a winter phenomena, so we'll also see what happens when it gets warm (spelled "hot as Texas") here soon.
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Rodney
West Marine Turbo Dryers work
I leave my H336 closed up for months at a time in south Florida and it was not pretty inside until I gave West $42 a pop for their 110V AC Turbo Dryers. I started with one, in the main salon, then went back and got a second for the aft cabin. No mold since. It works for me. It does require that I keep AC current to the boat all the times, but in the marina that is not a problem. No muss, no fuss, and it was the cheapest thing I could find that wasn't a pain in the backside. Good luck.
I leave my H336 closed up for months at a time in south Florida and it was not pretty inside until I gave West $42 a pop for their 110V AC Turbo Dryers. I started with one, in the main salon, then went back and got a second for the aft cabin. No mold since. It works for me. It does require that I keep AC current to the boat all the times, but in the marina that is not a problem. No muss, no fuss, and it was the cheapest thing I could find that wasn't a pain in the backside. Good luck.
George, One more thing!
As you noticed Rodney also mentioned the air driers with a fan. I would definitely get 2 of these for your boat. When you clean the mold/mildew use a little soapy water and add a mild solution of bleach. One of the problems is you can get the mold spores in the grain of the wood and you cannot see them but they stay in the grain of the wood. If you just wipe down the entire interior with the soapy water you will be killing all the spores in the boat so you will have a clean start. Then you can wipe down the wood with the citrus oil. We actually had a similar problem a few years ago and we wiped the glass and wood down with this type of mixture. I think you may be suprised on how DIRTY the water will be as you ring out your rag.
As you noticed Rodney also mentioned the air driers with a fan. I would definitely get 2 of these for your boat. When you clean the mold/mildew use a little soapy water and add a mild solution of bleach. One of the problems is you can get the mold spores in the grain of the wood and you cannot see them but they stay in the grain of the wood. If you just wipe down the entire interior with the soapy water you will be killing all the spores in the boat so you will have a clean start. Then you can wipe down the wood with the citrus oil. We actually had a similar problem a few years ago and we wiped the glass and wood down with this type of mixture. I think you may be suprised on how DIRTY the water will be as you ring out your rag.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Goerge, your boat cabin isn't hermetically sealed
If it were, you'd suffocate fairly quickly when you're aboard with all the hatches and ports closed. So plenty of warm moist air gets in without any help from a fan. You want to pull it out, not pull more in that you have to pull out, so set both your fans on exhaust when you're not there. Light definitely inhibits mildew growth, and many a boat owner--including me--has found that keeping a 60w bulb burning continuously in the cabin reduces mildew considerably and often eliminates it altogether. As for using lemon oil on the wood, it should go without saying that you have to clean the wood first. Use a mild solution of detergent, bleach and water, rinse VERY thoroughly, then wipe with undiluted bleach. When it's dry, apply lemon oil furniture polish. However, if your humidity is even higher than it is in GA in the summertime, all of the above may not be enough. I know of a couple of boat owners who keep their boats in south FL, but live elsewhere, and only get there a few times a year, so their boat stays closed up more than it's open. They cured the mildew problem by installing a dehumidifier and plumbing it to drain overboard (if it drains into the bilge, it'll only make the problem worse!). A portable unit with a drain installed in the tray that goes into the galley sink should be adequate for your boat.
If it were, you'd suffocate fairly quickly when you're aboard with all the hatches and ports closed. So plenty of warm moist air gets in without any help from a fan. You want to pull it out, not pull more in that you have to pull out, so set both your fans on exhaust when you're not there. Light definitely inhibits mildew growth, and many a boat owner--including me--has found that keeping a 60w bulb burning continuously in the cabin reduces mildew considerably and often eliminates it altogether. As for using lemon oil on the wood, it should go without saying that you have to clean the wood first. Use a mild solution of detergent, bleach and water, rinse VERY thoroughly, then wipe with undiluted bleach. When it's dry, apply lemon oil furniture polish. However, if your humidity is even higher than it is in GA in the summertime, all of the above may not be enough. I know of a couple of boat owners who keep their boats in south FL, but live elsewhere, and only get there a few times a year, so their boat stays closed up more than it's open. They cured the mildew problem by installing a dehumidifier and plumbing it to drain overboard (if it drains into the bilge, it'll only make the problem worse!). A portable unit with a drain installed in the tray that goes into the galley sink should be adequate for your boat.
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George Kornreich
You're right, Peggie
So, if I set all fans to "exhaust" I still get the problem of sucking in all that humid Texas air throough all the openings. Maybe the best idea in this environment would be not to ventillate, close the boat as tightly as possible and use a dehumifier (chemical or mechanical). Does this sound like a good move to you? Thanks. George
So, if I set all fans to "exhaust" I still get the problem of sucking in all that humid Texas air throough all the openings. Maybe the best idea in this environment would be not to ventillate, close the boat as tightly as possible and use a dehumifier (chemical or mechanical). Does this sound like a good move to you? Thanks. George
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Jim Cook
South Texas humidity
I can commiserate with you. Our humidity has been running 90-98% at night. Strangely enough, I haven't been having any mold problem. I would be concerned about the extra heat generated by a dehumidifier. We have an overabundance of heat down here anyway (it has been in the 80's several days last week). I like the idea of exhausting the air. It may be worth mentioning that I do have a condensation barrier on my entire hull. I'm not sure how much difference, if any, that makes with mold. Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
I can commiserate with you. Our humidity has been running 90-98% at night. Strangely enough, I haven't been having any mold problem. I would be concerned about the extra heat generated by a dehumidifier. We have an overabundance of heat down here anyway (it has been in the 80's several days last week). I like the idea of exhausting the air. It may be worth mentioning that I do have a condensation barrier on my entire hull. I'm not sure how much difference, if any, that makes with mold. Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
No, George...bad move
Stagnant air is even worse than circulated humid air. The best thing you could do would be to leave the boat wide open all the time so that UV and fresh air would prevent mold and mildew, but that's obviously not possible OR practical for other reasons. 1. Buy a dehumidifier and plumb it to drain overboard or into a sink. 2. Clean your interior wood with a solution of detergent, bleach and water, and apply lemon oil furniture polish. 3. Leave all interior lockers, doors and hatches in the cabin open (I loved somebody's idea of replacing all the solid ones with louvred or mesh) so that plenty of fresh air can circulate in them too. 4. Run your exhaust fans continually 5. Leave a 60w bulb burning continuously...it not only dries the air, but mildew doesn't like light, even artificial light. If doing all of the above doesn't prevent mildew, nothing will.
Stagnant air is even worse than circulated humid air. The best thing you could do would be to leave the boat wide open all the time so that UV and fresh air would prevent mold and mildew, but that's obviously not possible OR practical for other reasons. 1. Buy a dehumidifier and plumb it to drain overboard or into a sink. 2. Clean your interior wood with a solution of detergent, bleach and water, and apply lemon oil furniture polish. 3. Leave all interior lockers, doors and hatches in the cabin open (I loved somebody's idea of replacing all the solid ones with louvred or mesh) so that plenty of fresh air can circulate in them too. 4. Run your exhaust fans continually 5. Leave a 60w bulb burning continuously...it not only dries the air, but mildew doesn't like light, even artificial light. If doing all of the above doesn't prevent mildew, nothing will.
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George Kornreich
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