What are the advantages and disadvantages of putting a mizzen sail on a 240. I thought about using the mast trailering crutch, with a homemade boom, attaching it in some fashion, and cleating off to stern cleats. Anyone ever thought of this? Would it help to keep the boat pointing into the wind while at anchor?
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Sean Coerse
????
I hope you don't feel this is going to improve sailing qualities of the boat. It was designed as a fractional rig sloop. It is easly driven with the stock sail plan and is often over powered. If your looking at it from an anchoring standpoint your talking about making some type of riding sail. That may have some value but would be ugly in my opinion which often doesn't count for alot.
I hope you don't feel this is going to improve sailing qualities of the boat. It was designed as a fractional rig sloop. It is easly driven with the stock sail plan and is often over powered. If your looking at it from an anchoring standpoint your talking about making some type of riding sail. That may have some value but would be ugly in my opinion which often doesn't count for alot.
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Joe Boyette
mizzen - a few thoughts
first of all - it isn't needed - but - it would be fun to experiment with it! Just don't fool with it in winds over 5-8 knots, and I'd recommend not making any substantial modifications or additions to the original boat design. As a riding sail, you could get some idea of the effectiveness of that setup by tying a fabric sheet on the rear stay and toping lift and observing the action... varing the boom sheeting angle...
first of all - it isn't needed - but - it would be fun to experiment with it! Just don't fool with it in winds over 5-8 knots, and I'd recommend not making any substantial modifications or additions to the original boat design. As a riding sail, you could get some idea of the effectiveness of that setup by tying a fabric sheet on the rear stay and toping lift and observing the action... varing the boom sheeting angle...
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Bill Leathen
mizzen mast - not a good idea
My two cents which is probably all it is worth. Im not a nautical engineer but I know that the forces created by any mast is a complicated affair. The forces push down and forward. The designers took all that into account when they decided where and how much glass to put into the deck and hull. The impact on the handeling of the boat will be anybodys guess. The suggestion to try it only in 5 - 8 mph winds is wise. But even a gust can put some significant forces on the boat that were never anticipated by the designer. The best advise is to learn how to do what you want to do, with the rig you have. Keep sailing. Good luck. Bill Leathen
My two cents which is probably all it is worth. Im not a nautical engineer but I know that the forces created by any mast is a complicated affair. The forces push down and forward. The designers took all that into account when they decided where and how much glass to put into the deck and hull. The impact on the handeling of the boat will be anybodys guess. The suggestion to try it only in 5 - 8 mph winds is wise. But even a gust can put some significant forces on the boat that were never anticipated by the designer. The best advise is to learn how to do what you want to do, with the rig you have. Keep sailing. Good luck. Bill Leathen
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Frank Ladd
I did it
The easiest way to do it is to use a windsurfer rig. That's what I used on my 23.5. You can sheet it to the stern cleats or insert an extension into the rear of the rudder and sheet to that extention. If you tinker with it enough you may get it to help reduce the weather helm forces on the rudder. ( note that this does not reduce the actual weather helm angle of the rudder, it just helps to manage the force needed to steer the boat) Its a fun experiment to try in the light winds of summer but it only makes the boat ride a little better at anchor. As you know and Joe apparently does not, you have no backstay to attach a riding sail. The best method I've found for reducing the swing at anchor is to use a second anchor that you throw out the side after the first anchor is set. This stops the swinging but it must be changed if you have reversing current with the tides.
The easiest way to do it is to use a windsurfer rig. That's what I used on my 23.5. You can sheet it to the stern cleats or insert an extension into the rear of the rudder and sheet to that extention. If you tinker with it enough you may get it to help reduce the weather helm forces on the rudder. ( note that this does not reduce the actual weather helm angle of the rudder, it just helps to manage the force needed to steer the boat) Its a fun experiment to try in the light winds of summer but it only makes the boat ride a little better at anchor. As you know and Joe apparently does not, you have no backstay to attach a riding sail. The best method I've found for reducing the swing at anchor is to use a second anchor that you throw out the side after the first anchor is set. This stops the swinging but it must be changed if you have reversing current with the tides.
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Frank Ladd
Here is a picture
Let's see if this picture uploads ok. If not you can email me at Ladd333@aol.com
Let's see if this picture uploads ok. If not you can email me at Ladd333@aol.com
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Ron Mehringer
Frank, jib question
Frank - Can you explain your jib? Looks like you have something running from the luff to clew. Did you make some changes to the sail in oder to make it self tending? Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Frank - Can you explain your jib? Looks like you have something running from the luff to clew. Did you make some changes to the sail in oder to make it self tending? Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Frank Ladd
Yes I did that too
That was the jib I use while mine was being cut down to 95% It is rigged self tending with the block just in front of the mast and the sheet led from there around to the winch. At first I had the club at the foot in the normal manner, but the club would rise and spill wind on a run. I the picture the club is rigged like a sprit boom so the sail is self vanging and self tacking. Now she sails like a dream and there is no need to go forward to change the whisker pole from side to side on downwind tacks. It works great upwind too. It makes short tacking up a channel fun! I also experimented with a windsurfer boom so the sail would look great on both tacks but it was not any faster on either tack so I went back to the whiskerpole/sprit/club. Unlike the mizzen mast this experiment is one I'll keep and use all the time. So far only one other boat has copied this set up (a MAc 25) and he is sticking with it too.
That was the jib I use while mine was being cut down to 95% It is rigged self tending with the block just in front of the mast and the sheet led from there around to the winch. At first I had the club at the foot in the normal manner, but the club would rise and spill wind on a run. I the picture the club is rigged like a sprit boom so the sail is self vanging and self tacking. Now she sails like a dream and there is no need to go forward to change the whisker pole from side to side on downwind tacks. It works great upwind too. It makes short tacking up a channel fun! I also experimented with a windsurfer boom so the sail would look great on both tacks but it was not any faster on either tack so I went back to the whiskerpole/sprit/club. Unlike the mizzen mast this experiment is one I'll keep and use all the time. So far only one other boat has copied this set up (a MAc 25) and he is sticking with it too.
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