removehtml]Does anyone know about miter cut jibs versus crosscut jibs? Mack sails promotes the miter cut and I wonder if it is a marketing gimmick or is it a valid design? Do these jibs actually hold their shape significantly longer than crosscut of similar quality material?Error: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
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Material
I have seen ads promoting radial cut jibs ( I know you said miter cut) but my sailmaker said there would be no advantage using good quality dacron over a cross cut. He did say that mylar, specta, kevlar, et al should have a radial cut, however. FWIW, Rick D.
I have seen ads promoting radial cut jibs ( I know you said miter cut) but my sailmaker said there would be no advantage using good quality dacron over a cross cut. He did say that mylar, specta, kevlar, et al should have a radial cut, however. FWIW, Rick D.
radial v crosscut
radial designs allow the sailmaker to strengthen the higher stress areas of the sail by redirecting the seams and placing stronger panels in the needed areas. Try visiting a few sailmaker websites and you'll get some different viewpoints.
radial designs allow the sailmaker to strengthen the higher stress areas of the sail by redirecting the seams and placing stronger panels in the needed areas. Try visiting a few sailmaker websites and you'll get some different viewpoints.
Mack - miter cut jib
I have had a Mack miter cut 150 jib on my Ericson 38 for five years and am pleased with the sail. It ias held its shape through some pretty rough weather. I also have a Mack main with a Mack Pack sail cover and it is terrific. I did some research on the miter cut before I purchased the sail and could not find anything conclusive pro or con. Tom
I have had a Mack miter cut 150 jib on my Ericson 38 for five years and am pleased with the sail. It ias held its shape through some pretty rough weather. I also have a Mack main with a Mack Pack sail cover and it is terrific. I did some research on the miter cut before I purchased the sail and could not find anything conclusive pro or con. Tom
almost a lost art
The miter cut went out of fashion because it was more labor intensive, meaning more expensive. It's a far better design for a woven sail than crosscut or radial cuts because it keeps the draft forward when the sail stretches. In my opinion, a miter-cut sail furls better on roller furling. If you're getting a dacron sail that you realistically hope to put a lot of miles on, it's well worth the extra 10-20% you'll pay for a miter cut. If you're getting a laminated sail, go with a radial cut because at that point the issue isn't stretching, it's load-bearing pathways. But if you're getting a woven sail, such as dacron, go with a miter cut. Can't give you an opinion on Mack sails, because I don't know the loft, but if they're still offering miter cuts, I suspect they're "a cut above."
The miter cut went out of fashion because it was more labor intensive, meaning more expensive. It's a far better design for a woven sail than crosscut or radial cuts because it keeps the draft forward when the sail stretches. In my opinion, a miter-cut sail furls better on roller furling. If you're getting a dacron sail that you realistically hope to put a lot of miles on, it's well worth the extra 10-20% you'll pay for a miter cut. If you're getting a laminated sail, go with a radial cut because at that point the issue isn't stretching, it's load-bearing pathways. But if you're getting a woven sail, such as dacron, go with a miter cut. Can't give you an opinion on Mack sails, because I don't know the loft, but if they're still offering miter cuts, I suspect they're "a cut above."
Miter cut
Miter cut is an old fashioned method of preventing extreme 'bias stretch' of old technology sail material. Modern (higher end) woven materials by their engineering and fiber/weave alignment do not have this 'problem' to the same degree. I perceive miter cut sails allow the sailmaker to use a cheaper, less stable sail material. If you actually know how to adjust the shape of your sails (halyard, cunningham tension, etc.) a miter cut wont respond to this reshaping as a standard cross-cut .... ie.: heavier halyard tension wont result in much location of max. draft in the bottom sections of the sail where draft location is normally difficult to control in most sails. With a miter cut sail the more sheet or outhaul tension you apply the max. draft will tend to move lower in the sail toward the foot the more sheet or outhaul tension you apply especially if the sail fabric is 'stretchy' -- good for 'storm' sails but not for general 'cruising', etc. A radial, etc. cut will tend to stay in the shape that the sail is originally cut .... with the major axis of strain in the fabric aligned with the major axis of strain of the windloading, etc. and are relatively non-adjustable w/r 'shape'. If you are a 'cruiser' and simply 'raise' but never shape your sails ... all this doesnt make any difference as most of the time you will have 'deplorable' sail shape anyway ... especially if you dont have a local sail loft come to your boat, go sailing with you to see how the boat and rigging performs, determines how good or how bad a sailor you are, do the 'actual' measurements on the boat, etc.. If you are not knowledgeable nor even 'care' about 'sail shaping' then the radial cut will be the longest lasting while holding its overall shape and give the very best performance. IMHO if you're not actively racing, the cross-cut remains the best value and has the highest ability to be 'reshaped' (max. draft position, etc.) but needs some measure of 'quality' material to remain shape stable over time. The miter cut falls somewhere in between the two (but is unnecessary if you use 'good' materials).
Miter cut is an old fashioned method of preventing extreme 'bias stretch' of old technology sail material. Modern (higher end) woven materials by their engineering and fiber/weave alignment do not have this 'problem' to the same degree. I perceive miter cut sails allow the sailmaker to use a cheaper, less stable sail material. If you actually know how to adjust the shape of your sails (halyard, cunningham tension, etc.) a miter cut wont respond to this reshaping as a standard cross-cut .... ie.: heavier halyard tension wont result in much location of max. draft in the bottom sections of the sail where draft location is normally difficult to control in most sails. With a miter cut sail the more sheet or outhaul tension you apply the max. draft will tend to move lower in the sail toward the foot the more sheet or outhaul tension you apply especially if the sail fabric is 'stretchy' -- good for 'storm' sails but not for general 'cruising', etc. A radial, etc. cut will tend to stay in the shape that the sail is originally cut .... with the major axis of strain in the fabric aligned with the major axis of strain of the windloading, etc. and are relatively non-adjustable w/r 'shape'. If you are a 'cruiser' and simply 'raise' but never shape your sails ... all this doesnt make any difference as most of the time you will have 'deplorable' sail shape anyway ... especially if you dont have a local sail loft come to your boat, go sailing with you to see how the boat and rigging performs, determines how good or how bad a sailor you are, do the 'actual' measurements on the boat, etc.. If you are not knowledgeable nor even 'care' about 'sail shaping' then the radial cut will be the longest lasting while holding its overall shape and give the very best performance. IMHO if you're not actively racing, the cross-cut remains the best value and has the highest ability to be 'reshaped' (max. draft position, etc.) but needs some measure of 'quality' material to remain shape stable over time. The miter cut falls somewhere in between the two (but is unnecessary if you use 'good' materials).
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