I would like to shop for an asymmetric spinnaker and need a little help as I have only limited experience with spinnakers. First, where can I get the right dimensions for the luff, foot, and leech. If there is a correct size to have, is it acceptable to go somewhat smaller? I have a 37 Legend which I really like except for downwind sailing with larger waves and not enough wind. I feel that with the asymmetric I could get the main off the spreaders and still keep enough pressure on the boat to keep it driving in lighter conditions. The fractional rig just doesn't have drive in the front end and allows the boat to wallow around too much. I was considering that a somewhat smaller sail would make it easier to set and take down for my wife and I. Any comment on these ideas from persons with more spinnaker experience on these boats would be greatly appreciated. I have some spinnaker experience with beach cats, 30'Stilletto, & 32' Ericson but most of the time it has been too much trouble to be worthwhile - this may be adifferent situation. Thanks
Measurements for spinnaker
- Thread starter bill niessen
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Spinnaker
I'm having my asymmetric delivered for my new 44DS on Saturday and I'll give you more feedback after that. I ordered it for same reason - I thought jib would not provide enough power downwind and main has problem with spreaders. In fact she has sailed better than I thought she would. Re asymmetric it is my first time....only used conventional one before. Your sailmaker should be able to provide best advice...mine asked about how much I wanted to win those races vs how much I wanted to be able to handle her shorthanded - the usual trade-off. Also whether will only be a light-wind sail or intend to use in stronger winds downwind. Apart from luff leech and foot - my specific dimensions won't help you - other issues are weight of material (and type); also the degree of 'belly' in the sail. I think mine has "100% belly" in other words I think that means that half-way up the sail the sail width is equal to 100% of the foot. This is moderate compromise between the racing/cruising trade-off. I'll try to find out more when sailmaker helps me with test sail on Saturday.
I'm having my asymmetric delivered for my new 44DS on Saturday and I'll give you more feedback after that. I ordered it for same reason - I thought jib would not provide enough power downwind and main has problem with spreaders. In fact she has sailed better than I thought she would. Re asymmetric it is my first time....only used conventional one before. Your sailmaker should be able to provide best advice...mine asked about how much I wanted to win those races vs how much I wanted to be able to handle her shorthanded - the usual trade-off. Also whether will only be a light-wind sail or intend to use in stronger winds downwind. Apart from luff leech and foot - my specific dimensions won't help you - other issues are weight of material (and type); also the degree of 'belly' in the sail. I think mine has "100% belly" in other words I think that means that half-way up the sail the sail width is equal to 100% of the foot. This is moderate compromise between the racing/cruising trade-off. I'll try to find out more when sailmaker helps me with test sail on Saturday.
Your sailmaker will work out the dimentions
Bill: Any sailmaker will make an appointment with you to come to the boat for measurements. He'll measure the length of the luff by pulling his tape up to the sheave while attached to the halyard. Next, the sail guy will take numbers relating to the rest of the sail. If you need the halyard, Sailnet is presently having a 50% off sale on pre-cut lines. And, while you are at it, you will need two sheets TWICE the length of the boat. These need to be correctly sized for the type of conditions you will be in. Ours are 5/16ths. And finally, you will also need a tack line that will run from the bow/anchor roller to the cockpit. You will have to make the decision on what type of sailing conditions will cause you to want to fly the sail. Keep in mind, that the optimum angles for an asym are from about 100 to 130 degrees. The sail is doused by bringing it to 150 so that the main will blanket and make it easier to lower. This is NOT a DDW sail. I strongly suggest that you order the dousing sock with your selection. For my purposes, I ordered a 180% asymmetrical in 1.5 ounce dacron. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with .75 to better contend with the lighter air in So. Calif. We have had our sail up in 15 to 19 knots, but when you are sailing in these conditions, it is paramount that you keep a close eye on where the wind is coming from. Don't let it get too far forward, say 90 or less degrees. When this happens, and the air is over 12 or so knots, you will run the risk of becomming very over powered and the weather helm can be counterproductive to gaining speed. And, a broach can ruin your day. I have easily had the most enjoyable sailing when the asym is rigged. It is exciting as long as you know your limitations. I have attached a picture of our boat. The wind in this picture was very light, but at least you can get an idea of what it looks like. Best wishes, John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Bill: Any sailmaker will make an appointment with you to come to the boat for measurements. He'll measure the length of the luff by pulling his tape up to the sheave while attached to the halyard. Next, the sail guy will take numbers relating to the rest of the sail. If you need the halyard, Sailnet is presently having a 50% off sale on pre-cut lines. And, while you are at it, you will need two sheets TWICE the length of the boat. These need to be correctly sized for the type of conditions you will be in. Ours are 5/16ths. And finally, you will also need a tack line that will run from the bow/anchor roller to the cockpit. You will have to make the decision on what type of sailing conditions will cause you to want to fly the sail. Keep in mind, that the optimum angles for an asym are from about 100 to 130 degrees. The sail is doused by bringing it to 150 so that the main will blanket and make it easier to lower. This is NOT a DDW sail. I strongly suggest that you order the dousing sock with your selection. For my purposes, I ordered a 180% asymmetrical in 1.5 ounce dacron. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with .75 to better contend with the lighter air in So. Calif. We have had our sail up in 15 to 19 knots, but when you are sailing in these conditions, it is paramount that you keep a close eye on where the wind is coming from. Don't let it get too far forward, say 90 or less degrees. When this happens, and the air is over 12 or so knots, you will run the risk of becomming very over powered and the weather helm can be counterproductive to gaining speed. And, a broach can ruin your day. I have easily had the most enjoyable sailing when the asym is rigged. It is exciting as long as you know your limitations. I have attached a picture of our boat. The wind in this picture was very light, but at least you can get an idea of what it looks like. Best wishes, John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Imight have an asymetrical for you
Bill We own a 1991 Legend 37.5. I believe this is the same boat as your Legend 37. We bought her in 2002. She came with a practically brand new asymetrical, which we have not used. The P.O. sailed mostly with his wife, who did not like the asymetrical, so it has hardly ever been used. UK Sails, who has been trying to sell the sail for us, has assigned the sail the highest quality rating. I am sure they can fill you in on the sail if you are interested. Included with the sail is a snuffer, a sheet and sail bag. If this is something you ight be interested in, my email is scarpman@comcast.net. I live in Ann Arbor so the logistics are not that imposing.
Bill We own a 1991 Legend 37.5. I believe this is the same boat as your Legend 37. We bought her in 2002. She came with a practically brand new asymetrical, which we have not used. The P.O. sailed mostly with his wife, who did not like the asymetrical, so it has hardly ever been used. UK Sails, who has been trying to sell the sail for us, has assigned the sail the highest quality rating. I am sure they can fill you in on the sail if you are interested. Included with the sail is a snuffer, a sheet and sail bag. If this is something you ight be interested in, my email is scarpman@comcast.net. I live in Ann Arbor so the logistics are not that imposing.
Get a sock to keep it under control
It makes life soooo much easier. Mine has pockets for the control line and that is good too. I have an asymetrical (cruising) spinnaker which came off a 35' Mariner and it works fine on my 37.5. The actual size is not really too critical unless you are picky. They are also easy to sew up if you need to modify or repair it. You can get a kit and make one on a home sewing machine if you are patient enough. Look up Sail Rite kits online for more info.
It makes life soooo much easier. Mine has pockets for the control line and that is good too. I have an asymetrical (cruising) spinnaker which came off a 35' Mariner and it works fine on my 37.5. The actual size is not really too critical unless you are picky. They are also easy to sew up if you need to modify or repair it. You can get a kit and make one on a home sewing machine if you are patient enough. Look up Sail Rite kits online for more info.
For your first akite.....
.......you can buy them used for a few hundred dollars. Your "I" is 49' so you can buy that size plus or minus 10%. A used akite with a sock will set you back $500 to $800. The sock makes short handed sailing very easy. Check out these folks, they have a nice selection at good prices.
.......you can buy them used for a few hundred dollars. Your "I" is 49' so you can buy that size plus or minus 10%. A used akite with a sock will set you back $500 to $800. The sock makes short handed sailing very easy. Check out these folks, they have a nice selection at good prices.
smaller
Bill, you asked whether it was acceptable to go smaller. The answer is yes! Spinnakers do not have to be 180% of J. Many cruisers opt for a 165% kite, especially if they anticipate using it shorthanded. I have a 165% asym. spinnaker, and it's an absolute dream to use, especially when it's just the wife and me sailing. We tend to fly it in conditions when other boats aren't quite ready to wrassle with their big chutes. With a built-in sock, it's crazy how easy this sail is to hoist and dowse.
Bill, you asked whether it was acceptable to go smaller. The answer is yes! Spinnakers do not have to be 180% of J. Many cruisers opt for a 165% kite, especially if they anticipate using it shorthanded. I have a 165% asym. spinnaker, and it's an absolute dream to use, especially when it's just the wife and me sailing. We tend to fly it in conditions when other boats aren't quite ready to wrassle with their big chutes. With a built-in sock, it's crazy how easy this sail is to hoist and dowse.
Akite for 35.5
Alan, what luff, leech and foot dimensions should I search for when acquiring my asymmetrical for my 35.5?
Alan, what luff, leech and foot dimensions should I search for when acquiring my asymmetrical for my 35.5?
Bob Allen
The most important is your luff, but none of the lengths are critical as they are in headsails. Your "I" is 42 so 41 to 44 will work just fine. I have a cruising spinnaker with luff 45 and foot 27. I have a racing Akite with a 49 luff and 32 foot. Make sure that your spinnaker sheeets are long enough. General rule, 2X LOA. I find that many skippers are afraid of fly a cruising spinnaker. But it is very easy to set and fly and if you use a sock you can do it singlehanded. Always use an adjustable tack line lead aft to the cockpit. As the apparent wind goes aft and the sail flies to windward of the headstay, ease the tack line about 3 feet. You will feel the boat speed increase.
The most important is your luff, but none of the lengths are critical as they are in headsails. Your "I" is 42 so 41 to 44 will work just fine. I have a cruising spinnaker with luff 45 and foot 27. I have a racing Akite with a 49 luff and 32 foot. Make sure that your spinnaker sheeets are long enough. General rule, 2X LOA. I find that many skippers are afraid of fly a cruising spinnaker. But it is very easy to set and fly and if you use a sock you can do it singlehanded. Always use an adjustable tack line lead aft to the cockpit. As the apparent wind goes aft and the sail flies to windward of the headstay, ease the tack line about 3 feet. You will feel the boat speed increase.
Asym and a spin pole
Gentlemen, There appears to be a bit of asym knowledge in this thread. Has anyone had any experience with an asym wing on wing down wind run with the asym clew being held out with a spin or whisker pole ?? RD
Gentlemen, There appears to be a bit of asym knowledge in this thread. Has anyone had any experience with an asym wing on wing down wind run with the asym clew being held out with a spin or whisker pole ?? RD
Cap't
Psst, come closer so I can whisper. Wing on wing refers to going downwind with the jib/genoa on one side of the hull and the mainsail on the other. It has nothing to do with flying-sails or asyms. OK, now go get 'em.
Psst, come closer so I can whisper. Wing on wing refers to going downwind with the jib/genoa on one side of the hull and the mainsail on the other. It has nothing to do with flying-sails or asyms. OK, now go get 'em.
Beg to differ, Fred
We've flown our Akire wing on wing more than a few times. Capt Bob, DDW is the absolute slowest point of sail, but yes if you want to sail it you can 'wing' your akite out with a pole. However, sailing by the lee (AWA 190-200) and winging the akite is faster and will not require a pole. Care must be taken to watch that you don't accidentaly jibe the main. A preventer works well for that.
We've flown our Akire wing on wing more than a few times. Capt Bob, DDW is the absolute slowest point of sail, but yes if you want to sail it you can 'wing' your akite out with a pole. However, sailing by the lee (AWA 190-200) and winging the akite is faster and will not require a pole. Care must be taken to watch that you don't accidentaly jibe the main. A preventer works well for that.
Alan, you're right again!
I told you I was old-school. The term triradial was coined in the '70s for 'chutes. I bought one. Then in the '80s I bought a triradial Sobstad genoa. Junk! They sold a new sail to me at their cost.
I told you I was old-school. The term triradial was coined in the '70s for 'chutes. I bought one. Then in the '80s I bought a triradial Sobstad genoa. Junk! They sold a new sail to me at their cost.
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