md6b starting procedure

dk8521

.
Oct 30, 2019
58
hi group, i have purchased a 176 vega hull#2941. it needs a complete
going through,cusions, woodwork electrical etc.i would like to run
the engine before i winterize , but i am not familiar with the
procedure for starting. does anyone know the procedure for starting
md6b volvo? thanks,
dick
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Dick,

I have a 1976 V2933 with MD6B. Here is what I do.

1) Check oil level. Dipstick is starboard side of engine.

2) Make sure fuel line is on. My Vega has the fuel tank in the port
locker. On top of the tank, there is a lever in the fuel line to
block fuel to the engine. I turned the fuel off before winterizing
in the hopes of preventing air from leaking into the system. Sorry I
don't recall at the moment which way the lever goes to turn it on. I
can check for you if needed. Just send reply.

3) Make sure the water intake is open. You might have the original
gate valve just inside the engine compartment on starboard side. It
might have been replaced with something else. Make sure the valve is
open.

4) Make sure the compression lever is closed. My Vega has the
compression lever connected to a T handle that is located next to the
ignition in the cockpit. The T handle is all the way down to start.

5) If you have a battery switch, make sure it is on for power. My
Vega's electrical circuits where heavily modified by previous owner.
I don't know how the original battery setup worked.

6) Turn Key on. Just before reaching the starting position, I get a
very loud beep with oil warning light on. This beep goes away after
start.

7) Turn key to start and hope all goes well.

IMPORTANT: Do not turn key off to stop! To stop the engine, pull
the compression T handle up to stop the engine. After the engine
stops, then you can turn off the key and remove it. If you don't do
it correctly, you can damage something (I forget if its the starter
or generator).

Alternatives:
With some hard starting engines, it has been suggested that you raise
the compression lever. Turn the key to get the flywheel turning
fast, then lower compression lever to start. I have not done this so
can't verify for you.

If battery is dead, hand cranking can be done if you have the crank
that fits the flywheel. Again, I have not tried this yet, so don't
have first hand experience. I think the procedure is to raise the
compression lever, turn the key on, crank flywheel as fast as you can
with crank handle, then lower compression lever and hope it starts.To the group: On my MD6B panel, there is a round gauge labeled
Fuel. On the right (starboard) side are the warning lights and key
switch. On the left (port) side are two black knobs. I just
realized yesterday that the knobs are switches (they are pushed in
and can be pulled out). I was going to take a look in the electrical
box to see what they are connected to. Any Ideas?

Chris
V2933 Renee
Chesapeake Bay, USA
 
Oct 30, 2019
106
Dick,
Congratulations on your purchase!! I'll second Chris's starting
procedure as it is much the same as mine. I would add that I have
left the compression lever open to save the starter motor and start
the engine when the battery is weak or starting with the hand crank.
You can crank the engine and close the compression lever after the
engine is up to speed.

I have found that these engines are very forgiving. Mine started
right away after sitting for a year with no special attention. Best
of luckPaulM
V2926
 
Aug 18, 2015
37
I just started my MD6B again without any trouble after not using her for 6
weeks due to a broken hand. (I got it tangled in a line off my bodyboard in
heavy surf.) I have the same panel and I will look at it carefully tomorrow
for those extra knobs. Well, the engine started fine but I was startled by the
little alarm that my depth finder put out because it was low tide and the
boat was in the minimum depth of water for which I had set the alarm. My
question is if there is a chance of getting mud in the cooling water system if the
keel is barely touching the bottom, not run hard aground into heavy puff mud?

Florance
hull #3227
"SALT"
1977
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Ouch! Sorry to hear about your hand, but glad it was just your
hand. Sounds like it could have been worse.

In my humble OPINION, I'll quote two popular phrases, "Anything is
possible" and "It depends". If your water is fairly clean and the
mud is nice and packed, then I guess it would be ok. Also, if your
intake valve is in the engine compartment like mine is, realize the
intake opening is a few feet above the bottom, even if your keel is
touching. Here in the Chesapeake, the water can get pretty dirty,
especially after storms. I was advised by my storage yard to install
a raw water strainer.

Since I was tired out from working on thru-hulls, I went ahead and
let them install one for me. They mounted a canister type strainer
on the starboard wall of the engine housing, right above the water
intake valve. Do a search for "011_332_003_026" at
www.westmarine.com to see a picture of it. They cut out a square of
the sound proofing material, and installed a square of some white,
plastic looking, material to use as a backing board. Then they
installed the strainer on the backing board. The hose comes straight
up from the intake valve to one side of the strainer. The whole
thing is mounted high up on the wall to ensure it is above water
line.

This makes winterizing easy too. Notice in the picture, that the top
unscrews to allow you to change the filter. I can unscrew the top,
and close off the intake valve, then pour antifreeze in the top as
the engine pulls in the fluid.

I'm not sure what ill effects (if any) an occasional bit of mud would
have going through the system. Maybe someone else can comment. I
would worry about impeller wear/damage, engine cooling duct clogging,
and possibly exaust duct clogging. Most of these possible problems
would be more related to the continuous flow of dirt and grit and not
just an occasional amount.

Chris
V2933 Renee
 
Jan 28, 2001
694
Just a quick comment on the water strainer. Friends had one and I always
thought it was a great idea until they started motoring through schools of
krill. The little buggers would get sucked up by the hundreds and clog the
strainer. We never had a problem and we were motoring with them. I presume
we must have sucked them in also but they must have just went on through the
pump and out with the exhaust water. Walt, Lyric
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Walt

If you had a strainer on the output of the exhaust outlet you could have
collected enough cooked krill for a shrimp cocktail!!

See ya

Steve B