MD6 Removal

Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
Hey gang, sadly, I have been informed that I have insufficient compression and need to rebuild my MD6. It has the combi. which I want to remove/renovate at the same time. Questions:

(a) Is it possible to remove just the prop and pull the entire engine, combi and shaft forward into the salon and hoist it up and out the companionway hatch in one piece?

(b) If not, is it possible to simply unbolt the combi at the block and slide the engine forward and off the spline, leaving the combi behind without dismantling the whole combi?

(c) If I do as suggested in (b) am I going to then run into problems breaking apart the combi to remove it?

I am going up tomorrow to start the job, so any speedy advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much. Trevor (V2915)

_________________________________________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

n3935j

.
Oct 31, 2019
58
Trevor,
Have you determined why you have low compression compression? Unless you've already done a complete leak down check on the cylinders - before you tear everything apart- pull the cylinder heads and check out the valves and inspect the cylinder walls. Have a reliable marine or automotive machine shop determine if your valves were leaking enough to cause your low compression. If a valve grind won't save it, you have some serious thinking ahead deciding if you want to risk all the potential cost a rebuild might include. Volvo parts are very expensive.
Good luck,
Patrick
Thu, 10/23/08, trevor leech trevorleech@... wrote:

From: trevor leech trevorleech@...
Subject: [AlbinVega] MD6 Removal
To: albinvega@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, October 23, 2008, 5:30 PM

Hey gang, sadly, I have been informed that I have insufficient compression and need to rebuild my MD6. It has the combi. which I want to remove/renovate at the same time. Questions:

(a) Is it possible to remove just the prop and pull the entire engine, combi and shaft forward into the salon and hoist it up and out the companionway hatch in one piece?

(b) If not, is it possible to simply unbolt the combi at the block and slide the engine forward and off the spline, leaving the combi behind without dismantling the whole combi?

(c) If I do as suggested in (b) am I going to then run into problems breaking apart the combi to remove it?

I am going up tomorrow to start the job, so any speedy advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much. Trevor (V2915)

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
 
Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
Patrick, thanks. Have a trusted mechanic who has tested it. The rings are gone. Rings and gasket set and bearings are going to cost approx $1000. Head will be extra. Have a good rate on labour. Hoping to get in under $3000. Trev

To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: motorcoaster@...: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 20:27:30 -0700Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] MD6 Removal

Trevor,Have you determined why you have low compression compression? Unless you've already done a complete leak down check on the cylinders - before you tear everything apart- pull the cylinder heads and check out the valves and inspect the cylinder walls. Have a reliable marine or automotive machine shop determine if your valves were leaking enough to cause your low compression. If a valve grind won't save it, you have some serious thinking ahead deciding if you want to risk all the potential cost a rebuild might include. Volvo parts are very expensive.Good luck,Patrick Thu, 10/23/08, trevor leech trevorleech@... wrote:From: trevor leech trevorleech@...Subject: [AlbinVega] MD6 RemovalTo: albinvega@yahoogroups.comDate: Thursday, October 23, 2008, 5:30 PMHey gang, sadly, I have been informed that I have insufficient compression and need to rebuild my MD6. It has the combi. which I want to remove/renovate at the same time. Questions:(a) Is it possible to remove just the prop and pull the entire engine, combi and shaft forward into the salon and hoist it up and out the companionway hatch in one piece? (b) If not, is it possible to simply unbolt the combi at the block and slide the engine forward and off the spline, leaving the combi behind without dismantling the whole combi?(c) If I do as suggested in (b) am I going to then run into problems breaking apart the combi to remove it? I am going up tomorrow to start the job, so any speedy advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. Trevor (V2915)____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ _________________________________________________________________
 
Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
TODAY IS D-DAY, or should I say R-Day (removal day). Can anyone please quickly shed some light on my questions below? Thanks, Trev

To: albinvega@yahoogroups.comFrom: trevorleech@...: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 20:30:10 -0400Subject: [AlbinVega] MD6 Removal

Hey gang, sadly, I have been informed that I have insufficient compression and need to rebuild my MD6. It has the combi. which I want to remove/renovate at the same time. Questions:(a) Is it possible to remove just the prop and pull the entire engine, combi and shaft forward into the salon and hoist it up and out the companionway hatch in one piece? (b) If not, is it possible to simply unbolt the combi at the block and slide the engine forward and off the spline, leaving the combi behind without dismantling the whole combi?(c) If I do as suggested in (b) am I going to then run into problems breaking apart the combi to remove it? I am going up tomorrow to start the job, so any speedy advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. Trevor (V2915)__________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

If you are taking the engine out then you need to remove the combi etc. Instructions or on the group site for removing the combi.

Still thinking that renovating the MD6A is an expensive way to still have a 30+ year old engine. Think carefully

Cheers

Steve B
 
Oct 25, 2008
168
Albin Marin Vega Bogue Chitto, Miss
Trevor,

You should certainly be able to unbolt the engine from the transmission and drive shaft as they are all separate components. If the com-bi and shaft aren't in need of a servicing or replacement, you could always leave them in place, but you could be missing the best opportunity you'll probably ever have to give them that kind of attention. Removal of the engine and drive shaft in one unit would probably be unmannageable. If you aren't going to service or replace the combi or shaft, then I would leave them in place, unbolt the engine and use a block and tackle tied to the boom to hoist the engine up through the companionway. Is the boat on the hard? Think about your stuffing box and cutlass bearing. A) if it ain't broken, don't fix it. or B) Haste makes waste. (esspecially if you have to get back in there and work on the drive train in the near future). Take lots of pictures it helps to refresh your memory should you get delayed with
the reassembly and I always put bolts back into the holes they came out of.. As a rule I try to never end up with a mixed pile of nuts,bolts, and washers. An alternative is using plastic baggies and a sharpie help keep things organized.

A couple of beers, some tunes, and take your time.
 
Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
Thanks for your speedy guidance and words of encouragement, Steve and Ken. I got the MD6 out without any setbacks. It was very easy to disconnect the combi from the motor - sliding the combi casing back exposes 4 bolts - once these are removed the drive shaft slides aft off the spline on the crankshaft.

Steve, I tried the "fulsome blows" on the shaft to break the combi's inner circlips to no avail. Now I am going to try to remove the combi forward and out and take it in to a shop to see if they can break it apart.

Hence . . . another question: Does one need to use a gear-puller to remove the aft portion of the propellor boss from the keyed inner shaft? Your excellent instructions do not seem to discuss this point.

Trev (V2915)

Lastly, I realize that the rebuild is pricey, but I simply can't afford a new engine at this time.
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: mageekenneth@...: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 10:08:40 -0700Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] RE: [URGENT ATTENTION PLEASE AlbinVega] MD6 Removal

Trevor, You should certainly be able to unbolt the engine from the transmission and drive shaft as they are all separate components. If the com-bi and shaft aren't in need of a servicing or replacement, you could always leave them in place, but you could be missing the best opportunity you'll probably ever have to give them that kind of attention. Removal of the engine and drive shaft in one unit would probably be unmannageable. If you aren't going to service or replace the combi or shaft, then I would leave them in place, unbolt the engine and use a block and tackle tied to the boom to hoist the engine up through the companionway. Is the boat on the hard? Think about your stuffing box and cutlass bearing. A) if it ain't broken, don't fix it. or B) Haste makes waste. (esspecially if you have to get back in there and work on the drive train in the near future). Take lots of pictures it helps to refresh your memory should you get delayed withthe reassembly and I always put bolts back into the holes they came out of.. As a rule I try to never end up with a mixed pile of nuts,bolts, and washers. An alternative is using plastic baggies and a sharpie help keep things organized. A couple of beers, some tunes, and take your time.
 
Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
Thanks for your speedy guidance and words of encouragement, Steve and Ken. I got the MD6 out without any setbacks. It was very easy to disconnect the combi from the motor - sliding the combi casing back exposes 4 bolts - once these are removed the drive shaft slides aft off the spline on the crankshaft.

Steve, I tried the "fulsome blows" on the shaft to break the combi's inner circlips to no avail. Now I am going to try to remove the combi forward and out and take it in to a shop to see if they can break it apart.

Hence . . . another question: Does one need to use a gear-puller to remove the aft portion of the propellor boss from the keyed inner shaft? Your excellent instructions do not seem to discuss this point.

Trev (V2915)

Lastly, I realize that the rebuild is pricey, but I simply can't afford a new engine at this time.

To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: mageekenneth@...: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 10:08:40 -0700Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] RE: [URGENT ATTENTION PLEASE AlbinVega] MD6 Removal

Trevor, You should certainly be able to unbolt the engine from the transmission and drive shaft as they are all separate components. If the com-bi and shaft aren't in need of a servicing or replacement, you could always leave them in place, but you could be missing the best opportunity you'll probably ever have to give them that kind of attention. Removal of the engine and drive shaft in one unit would probably be unmannageable. If you aren't going to service or replace the combi or shaft, then I would leave them in place, unbolt the engine and use a block and tackle tied to the boom to hoist the engine up through the companionway. Is the boat on the hard? Think about your stuffing box and cutlass bearing. A) if it ain't broken, don't fix it. or B) Haste makes waste. (esspecially if you have to get back in there and work on the drive train in the near future). Take lots of pictures it helps to refresh your memory should you get delayed withthe reassembly and I always put bolts back into the holes they came out of.. As a rule I try to never end up with a mixed pile of nuts,bolts, and washers. An alternative is using plastic baggies and a sharpie help keep things organized. A couple of beers, some tunes, and take your time.
 
Oct 30, 2019
67
Hello Trevor,

I had exactly the same problem with 'fulsome' blows this Spring even using a sledge with a block of hardwood to protect the boss. Steve must be e big guy! :) I eventually solved the problem by getting to where the propellor shaft connects to the engine ahead of the Combi. There are 4 bolts there flanging the propellor shaft to the engine. There is just enough space to bash the propellor shaft flange backwards towards the stern with a hammer. It took many, many blows (each blow getting stronger and stronger) to open up a gap, and I could start to lever with a small pinch bar. I used a copper head head wheel disc hammer (from an old MG).

Regards,

Clint Edmonds,
Gladwyena # 3266
 
Oct 31, 2019
230
Thanks Clint, what a preposterous arrangement. I wish I could at least
understand what the bashing is supposed to accomplish. After all that,
were you able to get the bloody thing back together? I think I need a
fag. Trev V2915



________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Clinton Edmonds
Sent: October 27, 2008 8:45 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] RE: [URGENT ATTENTION PLEASE AlbinVega] MD6
Removal



Hello Trevor,

I had exactly the same problem with 'fulsome' blows this Spring even
using a sledge with a block of hardwood to protect the boss. Steve must
be e big guy! :) I eventually solved the problem by getting to where
the propellor shaft connects to the engine ahead of the Combi. There are
4 bolts there flanging the propellor shaft to the engine. There is just
enough space to bash the propellor shaft flange backwards towards the
stern with a hammer. It took many, many blows (each blow getting
stronger and stronger) to open up a gap, and I could start to lever with
a small pinch bar. I used a copper head head wheel disc hammer (from an
old MG).

Regards,

Clint Edmonds,
Gladwyena # 3266
 

mphalv

.
Sep 29, 2001
195
There is a way to remove the shaft. I still have the 1987 article "Combi
without tear", It has a description of a puller to remove the shaft with out
a great big hammer. I removed my combi several times with the homemade
puller.I am a firm believer in finese over brawn.
You can all me with an address or E-mail address and I will get the article
to you.
Sorry, I don't check my computer every day.

Paul Halvachs
Double Fantasy
1-207-989-4377
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