masthead light wiring

[ybrad]

Splashed + 1 week

Well, we launched our H37C, Miss Bobbi, last week after a 5x schedule overrun (never mind the budget). After fiberglass work and paint, she’s structurally sound, cosmetically decent, and the essential systems are coming along.

The only stumbling block currently is wire to the masthead light. Previous owner reported that it was not secured in the chase and would be an easy swap-out during LED 360° light installation. Not the case; the wire is fastened somewhere internally low in the mast. It may just be zip tied to other wires or clamped.
Accessing the mast innards would be my 1st choice. It appears there may be a panel on the aft side of the mast about 1” wide that runs from the base up through the cabin top and terminates near the boom attach point. Didn’t have a chance to thoroughly look at this other than as a possible access point, but wanted to ask if, in fact, this was a means to access mast wiring.
Other than that, ???

If unable to liberate the existing (failed) wire, the backup plan is to try to run a snake down chase for the new wire pull.

 

[Jim Legere]

Hi Brad,

Congrats on you re-launch! First the bad news: The easiest way to work on the H37C mast wiring is with the spar out of the boat. Now the good news: With the mast laid out on sawhorses (or similar) the whole wire chase can be exposed from top to bottom.

On our Kenyon spars, the extrusion has a wire chase that is covered by the mast track for the mainsail and by a blank section below the gooseneck. First lube everything with a good penetrating spray lube and let stand for a day. Remove the gooseneck. You may find an impact driver - the kind with screwdriver bits that you grasp and hit with a hammer - useful if the screws are stuborn (make sure to put NerverSeize on all threads when re-assembling) Once the gooseneck is off, you can use a hardwood block and a hammer to gently tap out the sections covering the wire chase (I seem to remember there are 3 or 4). It is good to have someone help you by holding and pulling on the free ends. Re-assembly is a direct reverse of the disassembly. Be careful not to pinch or skin any wires. Again, an extra hand helps. Good luck!

 

[Seattle Scott]

Brad, take one of the halyard exist plates off to see what is going on inside the mast in terms of the masthead wire being out of the chase and tied ot another wire.

 

[Johnb]

What mine looks like

This is a picture I took when we were having the corroded base of our mast cut off and a new base put in.

john brecher

 

[aboardduet]

Facing the same dilemma, and in that the bilge exit point is often wet, why not exit the wiring at some point nearer the level of the sole, but still under it? It seems a little silly to expose all those wires to a bath.

When I threaded my radar wire (thick; about 3/4") up the mast, I put it into the main chamber, spaced off from the inner wall of the mast with wire tie bundles spaced every three feet or so to eliminate rattling.

Now all the masthead wires need attention with the stick IN the boat. I think I'll pull that plastic cover off the bottom of the chase to get access to either replace or splice whatever is needed.

Yes? No?

Dave

 

[Ed Schenck]

Tough break re. no masthead light. As pointed out the wire is in the chase behind the mast track. I don't think it is possible to pull it out. My wires were tied to relieve the strain of the weight. When I replaced them all eight years ago I retied them. If it is really a bad wire I think the mast has to be horizontal. Getting the cover off the chase, the mast track, takes some effort.

But then it should only be the anchor light that you are missing. That is easily solved with something hanging from the forestay or the spreaders. It could also be just a connection problem at the top or bottom.

Dave, I did what you are suggesting. At the bottom my wires come out of the mast about eight inches above the step. They never get wet. I have a tri-color at the top and sometimes in rough weather use the masthead for running lights. So I need that wire. Until you can rewire the channel I suppose splicing would work. You will need some pieces/parts for the coax splice of course.

 

[ybrad]

Thanks all-

The mast is stepped, so unable the civilived horizonal repair. Do I understand that the lower 'sections' are in a channel/track and can be slid out of the mast bottom when not obstructed?

Will take a look at halyard exit plate removal; that may be just what i need.

Very beneficial picture; good to see the internal configuration.

Struck me as odd having wiring exit at such a low point in the bilge also, may get to modify that.

May have to resort to alternative anchor light, but still hope to have a properly mounted one.

Will post as it develops.

Thanks again, Brad

 

[Ed Schenck]

The wire chase is covered with the sail track above the boom gooseneck. Below the gooseneck the chase is covered with a hard rubber that slides out the bottom of the channel "when unobstructed" to use your term. But having the mast on the step would qualify as a serious obstruction I think. You can cut/chisel out a small section at the bottom to get the wires out of the bottom of the bilge.

I have about a one inch gap between the rubber cover and the sail track just below the gooseneck. In that gap I keep fresh silicone caulk in the chase and around the wires. This keeps some of the rain water from traveling down that channel and into the bilge.

 

[ybrad]

Thanks, Ed.
Good further info; sounds like making an inspect/egress point is the 'cover' is a possibility. Will know more tomorrow if I make it to the boat.

 

[Jim Boernge]

Brad,
Look at http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/5280-cruising.html for cross section of the wiring chase and look at "crusing section luff tracks" (K-73540) at http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/kenyon.html#Cruising Sections
to get an idea of the luff track that is removable to expose the wiring chase. My H36 is deck stepped so it has the 53572 piece below the gooseneck. If the below deck section has a rubber piece you are better off for some access.
The chase likely has either screw on clamps or screw mounted zip ties.
Hope this adds to your conceptualizing. On my mast (in the past) I've removed all of the luff track to have the mast painted and to do rewiring.

 

[ybrad]

Great resource, thanks for the links.

Status update: slightly enlarged the exit hole in the cover at the bottom of the mast with a Roto-zip. Not able to make any any definite determination on how wires secured. The opening allowed routing a 'snake' upwards into the mast. It took some manuvering to get it past two solid-feel
obstructions at about 8"-10" up the mast, but once past them, it was a straight shot to the mast top. Find out if it can be accessed from the masthead next time at boat.

 

[Mathurin]

On our boat the wires are secured by some sort of eurethane under the gooseneck probably to avoid water intrusion... Don't know if it's your case, but if it's you will defitively need to remove the mast to remove this stuff.