Does anyone know how to solve the problem of the wire clanging inside the mast as the boat gently rocks on the mooring and we are trying to go to sleep? Does anyone have experience raising a mast on a 25 foot or larger sloop with a gin pole rig? How about remounting your VHF antenna to the top of the mast? I would appreciate some experienced help, thanks. John.
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A
Andrew Shaw
Wire Clanging
Wrap a bungee cord around the spreaders and to the running lines. With the correct tension the lines are pulled just off the mast, and problem solved.
Wrap a bungee cord around the spreaders and to the running lines. With the correct tension the lines are pulled just off the mast, and problem solved.
J
Jim Quibell
Uhh Andrew - I think he said inside the mast.
I removed our steaming light, injected some of that expandable foam into the mast through the screw holes and voila - no more banging inside the mast. There are lots of other ways to stop this annoying problem, and I'm sure the gang on line will let you know. You may also want to let up on the viagra to get a smooth nights sleep. Cheers,
I removed our steaming light, injected some of that expandable foam into the mast through the screw holes and voila - no more banging inside the mast. There are lots of other ways to stop this annoying problem, and I'm sure the gang on line will let you know. You may also want to let up on the viagra to get a smooth nights sleep. Cheers,
M
Mel,
Wire slap inside mast
Thats what I did, removed top jib bail, shot in some expending insulation foam. You could do a dab wherever else there is a bolt that could be removed also. The only access you need is for the 1/4 inch can nozzle.
Thats what I did, removed top jib bail, shot in some expending insulation foam. You could do a dab wherever else there is a bolt that could be removed also. The only access you need is for the 1/4 inch can nozzle.
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Roy Mosteller
PVC Pipe
I have heard that placing a PVC pipe inside the mast and running wires through it stops the wire slap and gives the ability of running new wires should it later be necessary.
I have heard that placing a PVC pipe inside the mast and running wires through it stops the wire slap and gives the ability of running new wires should it later be necessary.
J
John Dawson
not the archives again
long discussions about this topic in the archives. As I remember, there were about three solutions that were popular, the foam is a new one. First was using zip ties to bundle the wires inside and leaving their tails on to protrude in all directions against the mast. Second was putting them in foam pipe insulation, leaving room for internal halyards (Don Casey recommendation). Thirdly was securing dishwashing plastic mesh scrubbies at various heigths along the wires; their diameter is about right for smaller masts.
long discussions about this topic in the archives. As I remember, there were about three solutions that were popular, the foam is a new one. First was using zip ties to bundle the wires inside and leaving their tails on to protrude in all directions against the mast. Second was putting them in foam pipe insulation, leaving room for internal halyards (Don Casey recommendation). Thirdly was securing dishwashing plastic mesh scrubbies at various heigths along the wires; their diameter is about right for smaller masts.
T
Terry
T
Tricia
foam pipe insulation vs zip ties
Foam pipe insulation will, sooner or later, disintigrate. I did the zip tie routine and am very happy with it.
Foam pipe insulation will, sooner or later, disintigrate. I did the zip tie routine and am very happy with it.
Zip ties here too
I recently replaced the masthead antenna for my VHF. The only hard part was getting the zip ties through the hole in the mast base casting (mast is deck-stepped). I solved the problem by arranging the zip ties as an elongated X rather than a cross (+). Worked fine, and plenty of room left over for three halyards and the wires for the anchor light and steaming light. Peter H23 "Raven"
I recently replaced the masthead antenna for my VHF. The only hard part was getting the zip ties through the hole in the mast base casting (mast is deck-stepped). I solved the problem by arranging the zip ties as an elongated X rather than a cross (+). Worked fine, and plenty of room left over for three halyards and the wires for the anchor light and steaming light. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Mel,
Gold Beach
That it does, on the Rogue, with the Rogue River "Bar", lost two more people(man and women) there a few months ago. Got the women's body that day, but took a while to find the guy. Their Lifevests washed ashore with the rest of the debris the same day. One guy was right there, getting a line to within 4 feet of the lady, just before the next wave got her.
That it does, on the Rogue, with the Rogue River "Bar", lost two more people(man and women) there a few months ago. Got the women's body that day, but took a while to find the guy. Their Lifevests washed ashore with the rest of the debris the same day. One guy was right there, getting a line to within 4 feet of the lady, just before the next wave got her.
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Bill
Antenna
Last year I installed a VHF with antenna at the top of the mast. Did it similar to one of the last entries. I laid the mast down and drilled a hole in the side of the base, large enough for the antenna cable and a rubber grommet. Took the cap off the top of the mast and ran a stiff wire in through the hole near the base and pushed it to the top end of the mast. Secured the antenna cable to the wire at the top end and pulled it through to the bottom and out the bottom. Drilled a hole in the side of the mast near the top and pulled the top end of the cable through this hole, protecting the cable from possible chafing. Then installed a clamshell vent over this hole and pointed the cable toward the base to form a drip loop. then installed the connectors at both ends. Be sure to verify with an ohm meter that you have continuity between the two ends by shorting the center lead to the shield at one end and measuring at the other end. Next, take off the short and measure from the center lead to the shield. You should not get a reading when doing this. Next, install your antenna and hook up your radio to the whole installation to make sure it works. Much easier to do these checks when the mast is down rather than when it is 25 or 30 feet in the air. Good Luck, Been there
Last year I installed a VHF with antenna at the top of the mast. Did it similar to one of the last entries. I laid the mast down and drilled a hole in the side of the base, large enough for the antenna cable and a rubber grommet. Took the cap off the top of the mast and ran a stiff wire in through the hole near the base and pushed it to the top end of the mast. Secured the antenna cable to the wire at the top end and pulled it through to the bottom and out the bottom. Drilled a hole in the side of the mast near the top and pulled the top end of the cable through this hole, protecting the cable from possible chafing. Then installed a clamshell vent over this hole and pointed the cable toward the base to form a drip loop. then installed the connectors at both ends. Be sure to verify with an ohm meter that you have continuity between the two ends by shorting the center lead to the shield at one end and measuring at the other end. Next, take off the short and measure from the center lead to the shield. You should not get a reading when doing this. Next, install your antenna and hook up your radio to the whole installation to make sure it works. Much easier to do these checks when the mast is down rather than when it is 25 or 30 feet in the air. Good Luck, Been there
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Tom s/v GAIA
If you spray expanding foam into the mast how do
you run new wires when the time comes to replace something?????????? Tom s/v GAIA
you run new wires when the time comes to replace something?????????? Tom s/v GAIA
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Jim Quibell
You fish the new lines through -
how else would you do it??? Fasten your new wire/line/whatever to your old line and simply pull it through the foam. Trust me - I have done it and it works just fine. Cheers.
how else would you do it??? Fasten your new wire/line/whatever to your old line and simply pull it through the foam. Trust me - I have done it and it works just fine. Cheers.
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Ned
Gin Pole
I drive a truck transporting boats and also own an O'day daysailer. I did have the experience this summer of putting up a mast with a gin pole on a 27' Catalina. It took about 3 hours to get everything done. It was not as hard as it appeared to be. The main thing to keep in mind is to use a rope with a large loop and run it around the bottom portion of the mast below the spreaders. Also attach a line to the loop and raise the mast up. Once you have the mast in position and have attached all of the stays, make sure that you tighten them to the proper tention and let the gin pole line down. You may have to use that line that you attched to the loop to help it down. We did it with 2 people, but 3 would have ben ideal. Its really easy to tangle the stays to be careful. It barely made it because of the height and that may be a problem that you also encounter. Good luck
I drive a truck transporting boats and also own an O'day daysailer. I did have the experience this summer of putting up a mast with a gin pole on a 27' Catalina. It took about 3 hours to get everything done. It was not as hard as it appeared to be. The main thing to keep in mind is to use a rope with a large loop and run it around the bottom portion of the mast below the spreaders. Also attach a line to the loop and raise the mast up. Once you have the mast in position and have attached all of the stays, make sure that you tighten them to the proper tention and let the gin pole line down. You may have to use that line that you attched to the loop to help it down. We did it with 2 people, but 3 would have ben ideal. Its really easy to tangle the stays to be careful. It barely made it because of the height and that may be a problem that you also encounter. Good luck
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