Hello, I am trying to fix my mast light w/o bringing the mast down on a 23.5. I have a short in the connector from the mast to the boat. I pulled the wires out of the connector (mast side) hoping the manual would explain what color is what? WRONG!! I have a Blue wire, green/yellow wire, and a redish/brownish wire... anyone know which one is the ground?? thanks..
Mast wiring - which wire is ground?
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ABYC Wire Colors
You need to double check this against the ABYC standards but I believe the DC ground wire is Green or green w/yellow stripe(s)
You need to double check this against the ABYC standards but I believe the DC ground wire is Green or green w/yellow stripe(s)
ABYC WIRING.
Larry,I think George is correct. According to page 113 of Nigel Calder's Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual "DC grounding conductors are Green or Green with Yellow stripe(s)"
Larry,I think George is correct. According to page 113 of Nigel Calder's Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual "DC grounding conductors are Green or Green with Yellow stripe(s)"
Get a multi-meter
to find the ground, do a oms test from the negative battery terminal and each wire. That will tell you which wires have a ground. To find wires that are connecting but shouldn't, disconnect the wires at the base of the mast and check for oms between the wires. To find wires that are broken, check for oms between the ends of the each wire. All that is needed is a multi-meter (pretty cheap) and a lead wire (20' is usually good enough) with clips on each end so you can clip it to things. By spending $20 and investing an hour, you can find your problem if you have one in the wires.
to find the ground, do a oms test from the negative battery terminal and each wire. That will tell you which wires have a ground. To find wires that are connecting but shouldn't, disconnect the wires at the base of the mast and check for oms between the wires. To find wires that are broken, check for oms between the ends of the each wire. All that is needed is a multi-meter (pretty cheap) and a lead wire (20' is usually good enough) with clips on each end so you can clip it to things. By spending $20 and investing an hour, you can find your problem if you have one in the wires.
Do not worry.
A light bulb has no polarity, it is a simple resistance. If unsure of the wiring colors do not worry as you can reverse the wires at the connector with no consequence. Since you have the wires exposed you may want to test for continuity. If you get 0 ohms you do not have continuity and it could be 1) a burnt bulb, 2) dirty bulb socket, 3) loose connector or 4) broken wire. Unfortunately you will not be able to tell where the failure lies from the deck of the boat. Hope is in the connector like you expressed. Good luck.
A light bulb has no polarity, it is a simple resistance. If unsure of the wiring colors do not worry as you can reverse the wires at the connector with no consequence. Since you have the wires exposed you may want to test for continuity. If you get 0 ohms you do not have continuity and it could be 1) a burnt bulb, 2) dirty bulb socket, 3) loose connector or 4) broken wire. Unfortunately you will not be able to tell where the failure lies from the deck of the boat. Hope is in the connector like you expressed. Good luck.
Not so fast Benny! There are three wires!
There are two bulbs at the top of the mast on a H23.5, and three wires in the cable that goes up there. I think the three-position switch on the electrical panel is labelled "Anchor" and "Steaming" (left and right), with OFF being in the middle position. "Anchor" turns on both lights for all-around lighting; "Steaming" just the forward one. At least, that's how my H23.5 is set up. The link below shows the Perko masthead light on my boat. BTW, my masthead lights didn't work when I bought my boat, a 1995 that was 7 years old. After replacing the bulbs and a lot of testing, it turn out the problem was just corrosion on the connector at the mast base. I cleaned up the prongs and the sockets with a "Starbrite Corrosion Buster Pen": http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1502 There may be better ways. Careful with the pen; it sheds fiberglassy bits that you don't want stuck in your skin or eyes. ...RickM...
There are two bulbs at the top of the mast on a H23.5, and three wires in the cable that goes up there. I think the three-position switch on the electrical panel is labelled "Anchor" and "Steaming" (left and right), with OFF being in the middle position. "Anchor" turns on both lights for all-around lighting; "Steaming" just the forward one. At least, that's how my H23.5 is set up. The link below shows the Perko masthead light on my boat. BTW, my masthead lights didn't work when I bought my boat, a 1995 that was 7 years old. After replacing the bulbs and a lot of testing, it turn out the problem was just corrosion on the connector at the mast base. I cleaned up the prongs and the sockets with a "Starbrite Corrosion Buster Pen": http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1502 There may be better ways. Careful with the pen; it sheds fiberglassy bits that you don't want stuck in your skin or eyes. ...RickM...
Rick you are right
I did not consider the H-23 might have a steaming light/ mast light fixture. You now have two circuits with a common ground wire.
I did not consider the H-23 might have a steaming light/ mast light fixture. You now have two circuits with a common ground wire.
Here's a wiring diagram
My H23.5 manual must be up at the lake. The link below is from the H240/H260 manual. It's quite likely the same. ...RickM...
My H23.5 manual must be up at the lake. The link below is from the H240/H260 manual. It's quite likely the same. ...RickM...
mast wiring
I had the same problem this Spring. I followed the wiring diagram in the 240 manual and reconnected the 3 wires. Worked fine. So if your 23.5 is the same set up follow the diagram posted.
I had the same problem this Spring. I followed the wiring diagram in the 240 manual and reconnected the 3 wires. Worked fine. So if your 23.5 is the same set up follow the diagram posted.
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