Mast Step Support

[Shawondasee]

Can someone tell me what material is used to carry the mast load from the step to the top of the compression post on a 1985 Hunter 31? The compression post was replaced last year, but the material between the mast step and the top of the compression post is suspect. Can repairs be made with the mast in? There is no sign of distress on the cabin top or around the mast step, but a moisture meter suggests that the area inside the beam is wet.

 

[Scott]

On my '86 31 an aluminum plate was used. I found this out while drilling a hole for a Nicro solar vent between the mast and the center hatch. Needless to say the solar vent ended up on the hatch.

 

[Allan12210]

There is an alumninum plate glassed into the deck. Below that is where the problems have been known to occur. Inside the fiberglass beam on the inside of the boat is a piece of douglas fir (lying on its side). That is the solid couple between the underside of the deck and the top of the compression post. The wires in the mast pass through a short piece that is caulked in a hole through the deck. You might be able to see it by peeking into the base of the mast. If the sealant has deteriorated water can get inside the overhead and cause that piece of week to rot. Alternatively, the wood may have a big chunk cut out of it to allow passage of the wires down into the compression post. The small crossection under the heavy load will begin to crush down like mine did. You could have all of the above and the top of the compression post could begin to rot as well. Search the archives for compression post repair especially for the Hunter 34. check under the tab Boat Info >> Hunter Owner Modifications. There are easier ways to fix it than I did that others have documented. I think it would be best to pull the mast as it might be necessary to rebed that pipe where it enters the deck. Also, repairing the material above the fiberglass beam would be easier without the wires in the way. This all is predicated on the assumption that you actually have a problem. Is there any sign of the beam inside distorting under load? Does the rigging stay loose? Maybe check the moisture content from the inside of the boat around that beam. The aluminum plate may be fooling the instrument.

Allan

 

[Shawondasee]

Thanks for your help Allen. I'm thinking of cutting a window on the rear vertical surface of the beam (1-1/2" x 6") to gain access, replace the Douglas Fir with pressure treated wood coated with epoxy and installing a teak trim piece to close the window. There is some distress around the bottom of the beam where it was in contact with the teak jacket that surrounded the compression post. This is not surprising as there was nothing left to the compression post when I removed it and replaced it last year. The 1/2" teak jacket was carrying the entire mast load.

Thanks again

Ed

 

[kloudie1]

Yes, there was a posting for the 34 that had an idea for replacing the upper compression wood. Basically required marking the underside of the cross beam and then removing it.. Then cutting a window in the bottom of the fiberglass beam so that the entire window would be hidden by the compression post trim, once the fix was made. There was also a posting that showed a small boom lift made of 2X4's that could be used to lift the mast and control the lower end while moving it aside a few inches to get at the caulking.. This one should be studied carefully as it may be not worth the risk compared to having the yard unship the mast and re-step after repair.. Good luck with the repair.. post pics when ya done!

 

[Steve Dion]

There is wood in the cross member that goes from the port/starboard side.

If you are not showing any problems with the step, I would not worry about it until you complete the season. It would not be adviseable to do any of this work without removing the mast.

Some replaced the entire cross member with metal. I am not sure if that was on a 31 or a 34. You can alway drill some small holes from the inside to determine if there is rot/moisture in the area if you are concerned.

 

[Shawondasee]

Thanks guys. At this juncture a few exploratory holes makes a lot of sense. Than if repairs are needed, I'll have the yard remove the mast first.

Smooth Sailing,

Ed

 

[kwilder]

hunter compresssion post

Hi
do you have any digital photos of the is issue - I am looking at fixing a 33 with a rotting post - would like to get more insight into what I'm up against
cheers,
Ken from Canada
kwilder@telus.net

There is an alumninum plate glassed into the deck. Below that is where the problems have been known to occur. Inside the fiberglass beam on the inside of the boat is a piece of douglas fir (lying on its side). That is the solid couple between the underside of the deck and the top of the compression post. The wires in the mast pass through a short piece that is caulked in a hole through the deck. You might be able to see it by peeking into the base of the mast. If the sealant has deteriorated water can get inside the overhead and cause that piece of week to rot. Alternatively, the wood may have a big chunk cut out of it to allow passage of the wires down into the compression post. The small crossection under the heavy load will begin to crush down like mine did. You could have all of the above and the top of the compression post could begin to rot as well. Search the archives for compression post repair especially for the Hunter 34. check under the tab Boat Info >> Hunter Owner Modifications. There are easier ways to fix it than I did that others have documented. I think it would be best to pull the mast as it might be necessary to rebed that pipe where it enters the deck. Also, repairing the material above the fiberglass beam would be easier without the wires in the way. This all is predicated on the assumption that you actually have a problem. Is there any sign of the beam inside distorting under load? Does the rigging stay loose? Maybe check the moisture content from the inside of the boat around that beam. The aluminum plate may be fooling the instrument.

Allan

 

[heart of gold]

A different way to look at the mast post problem

I emailed hunter in Florida a couple of weeks ago regarding this and other projects, not really expecting any response but low and behold, 3 hours later a techniciian called me on my cell. We chatted for about a half an hour about the weaknesses in these older boats and with regard to the post he suggested this... Unstep the mast at the yard, pull the wooden post out clear the wiriing in the beam area out of the way, remove the step, drill a hole just large enough to insert a flanged mast post (mine would be 3in' aluminum pipe) through from the top, long enough to reach down to a flanged step where the wooden post rested previously. This takes the load completely off of the cabin roof as the top flange is the shape of the step and is bolted in place usiin slightly longe bolts. Mind you it would have to be exactly the right length and sealed completely. Aparantly this is how the new boats are put together. seems to make a lot of sense, takes the guess work out of it, saves cutting ugly holes in the beams and eliminates any squashing of decks and posts and as the pipe, in my case is hollow, voila, you have a chase for wires.

 

[achilles43]

Additional Suggestion

I encountered the same problem on my 84' 31. I also recommend unstepping the mast before making the replacement post and installing. Additionally I used 3M 5200 on the mast step plate caulking all around the pvc pipe that comes up thru the deck for the mast wiring. I coated the entire surface of the deck which is visible at the bottom of the plate and of course sealed the tubing in place. Since this created a 'cup' under the mast with no where for any water draining down the inside of the mast to go, I drilled several small 'weep' holes in the side of the base casting so any accumulated water could drain out and not collect. I have been 'dry as a bone' for two years.