I replaced the bulb in the mast/steaming light and it is not working. Checked the fuse and opened the box to inspect the wires. Has anyone rewired the light? There is a plug at the base of the mast on the port side cabin top. It has two prongs. I cleaned it and checked the wires going in. I am electrically challenged, even though this is a simple system. While we are at it. I don't have an anchor light at the top of the mast. Has anyone attached and wired one? Thanks, Captain Norman Dunedin, Florida
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Diagnose first
Go up the mast and measure the voltage at the lamp. Turn on the lamp and set the battery selector switch to both. Bring with you a multi meter, sandpaper and a wire long enough to reach the batteries. I find a 50' extension cord works great. Lots of problems with lamps that are exposed to the elements are corrosion on the terminals. Test on a clean part of the terminal. If you get a good voltage then it is sandpaper time. If you did not get a good voltage reading (12 volts) then either the power or ground is acting up. To test the power have your trusty assistant put the ground tang of the extension cord to the battery negative post. You then test between the ground hole on the extension cord and both of the terminals. One combination should show 12 volts. This will be the power wire. If not, see below "power and ground not connected" To test the ground have your trusty assistant put the ground tang of the extension cord to the battery positive post. You then test between the ground hole on the extension cord and both the terminals on the light. If you don't get 12 volts from one combination of hole and terminals then you really have problems. If you can't get power or ground then switch the multi meter to ohms and with your assistant holding the extension cord to the negative terminal test between the extension cord ground hole and each terminal. The one with 0 ohms is the ground wire. Switch the extension cord to the positive battery terminal and test each terminal. The one with 0 ohms is the power. If you still get "no joy" then you have to trace the wires from circuit breaker to light testing for 12 volts or 0 ohms at each junction. The Great Roosack predicts that you have a corroded light terminal(s) and a little sandpaper will fix the problem. He also predicts that while hanging from the mast you will bend the terminal while sanding it and break the sucker off if not real careful.
Go up the mast and measure the voltage at the lamp. Turn on the lamp and set the battery selector switch to both. Bring with you a multi meter, sandpaper and a wire long enough to reach the batteries. I find a 50' extension cord works great. Lots of problems with lamps that are exposed to the elements are corrosion on the terminals. Test on a clean part of the terminal. If you get a good voltage then it is sandpaper time. If you did not get a good voltage reading (12 volts) then either the power or ground is acting up. To test the power have your trusty assistant put the ground tang of the extension cord to the battery negative post. You then test between the ground hole on the extension cord and both of the terminals. One combination should show 12 volts. This will be the power wire. If not, see below "power and ground not connected" To test the ground have your trusty assistant put the ground tang of the extension cord to the battery positive post. You then test between the ground hole on the extension cord and both the terminals on the light. If you don't get 12 volts from one combination of hole and terminals then you really have problems. If you can't get power or ground then switch the multi meter to ohms and with your assistant holding the extension cord to the negative terminal test between the extension cord ground hole and each terminal. The one with 0 ohms is the ground wire. Switch the extension cord to the positive battery terminal and test each terminal. The one with 0 ohms is the power. If you still get "no joy" then you have to trace the wires from circuit breaker to light testing for 12 volts or 0 ohms at each junction. The Great Roosack predicts that you have a corroded light terminal(s) and a little sandpaper will fix the problem. He also predicts that while hanging from the mast you will bend the terminal while sanding it and break the sucker off if not real careful.
You are wise Grizzhopper!
A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with a theory. And man have I seen corrosion!
A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with a theory. And man have I seen corrosion!
Rather than first climbing
the mast, first disconnect the light at the base of the mast and measure the resistance of the wiring and bulb up the mast. It should read about 1 - 3 ohms. If it reads much more you have either an open circuit or poor connections. This means you have a bad bulb, cut wire, bad connections or corrosion. Check and clean your plug connections. Are they tight and free of crrosion? You'll most likely find that the problem is up the mast but maybe Murphy took the day off and you'll get lucky. If not follow Bill's advise. I'm having a similar problem with my Ericson but, since I don't sail at night and the anchor light works fine, I'll wait until I drop the mast in a few weeks to fix it. Good luck.
the mast, first disconnect the light at the base of the mast and measure the resistance of the wiring and bulb up the mast. It should read about 1 - 3 ohms. If it reads much more you have either an open circuit or poor connections. This means you have a bad bulb, cut wire, bad connections or corrosion. Check and clean your plug connections. Are they tight and free of crrosion? You'll most likely find that the problem is up the mast but maybe Murphy took the day off and you'll get lucky. If not follow Bill's advise. I'm having a similar problem with my Ericson but, since I don't sail at night and the anchor light works fine, I'll wait until I drop the mast in a few weeks to fix it. Good luck.
What I found on my H23
I've found that the plug and socket at the mast base are prone to weathering (not corrosion). A thin green coating (patina?) forms on the brass, causing poor electrical continuity. I usually sand lightly, then apply some silicone grease to keep the salt air out. On a related note, my boat HAD a masthead anchor light but no steaming light. I think Hunter took the term "day-sailer seriously). I sometimes motor at night, e.g. to get back into the marina after dark, but rarely anchor out, so I removed the masthead light and installed a steaming light just above the spreaders. The steaming light is powered by the anchor light circuit (I cut off the extra length). On those rare occasions when I do anchor out, I use either an oil lamp (perfectly legal and won't draw the battery down) or an LED light hoisted on the main halyard (not USCG approved but I think an unapproved light that stays illuminated all night is better than no light at all). Peter H23 "Raven"
I've found that the plug and socket at the mast base are prone to weathering (not corrosion). A thin green coating (patina?) forms on the brass, causing poor electrical continuity. I usually sand lightly, then apply some silicone grease to keep the salt air out. On a related note, my boat HAD a masthead anchor light but no steaming light. I think Hunter took the term "day-sailer seriously). I sometimes motor at night, e.g. to get back into the marina after dark, but rarely anchor out, so I removed the masthead light and installed a steaming light just above the spreaders. The steaming light is powered by the anchor light circuit (I cut off the extra length). On those rare occasions when I do anchor out, I use either an oil lamp (perfectly legal and won't draw the battery down) or an LED light hoisted on the main halyard (not USCG approved but I think an unapproved light that stays illuminated all night is better than no light at all). Peter H23 "Raven"
On this boat
I wouldn't ever climb the mast..i'd just lower it. It's kind of a wierd thought, but with 4 cotter ring "steps" I can have my jib halyard attached to my mainsheet at the bow and the forestay unclipped. I guess theres the foreward pin at the mast step too. But it's really easy to raise and lower! (getting her trailer-ready is different and not quit so easy).
I wouldn't ever climb the mast..i'd just lower it. It's kind of a wierd thought, but with 4 cotter ring "steps" I can have my jib halyard attached to my mainsheet at the bow and the forestay unclipped. I guess theres the foreward pin at the mast step too. But it's really easy to raise and lower! (getting her trailer-ready is different and not quit so easy).
Plug
My light trouble has always been the where the mast wire goes into the plug. This year a frustrated tape jod has been freakishly reliable. Gotta love the H23... Ya just gotta.
My light trouble has always been the where the mast wire goes into the plug. This year a frustrated tape jod has been freakishly reliable. Gotta love the H23... Ya just gotta.
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