I'm thinking about buying a 26X. I have an opportunity to keep it on a canal which has one bridge before open water. My question is how easy or difficult is it to raise and lower the mast if you have the Macgregor mast raising system? Do you have to disconnect all of the shrouds? How long does it take? and can one guy do it? Any help or advise is appreciated. Joe M
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Bob Blackwell
I always raise and lower my mast by myself. It is really easy with the mast raising kit. You just need to be careful as it goes up and make sure the stays don't get hung on anything. I have a CDI flexible furler that you have to disconnect and pay attention to as the mast comes down and goes back up, but one person can do it relatively easy.
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argo
mast
I have 1 '97 in central florida. With the "M" type mast raising kit it's not too difficult. I added a trailer winch to my boompole and raising is a one person job. But- this is still a good sized mast,esp if you also have a furler, and doing this on a moving boat is not fun. Better to aanchor, just another nuisance. So, it is possible, but not, IMHO, practical to do on a regular basis. I've done it several times but I prefer on-trailer rigging. After you step the mast you still have to bolt on the boom then rig the sheets. Much more pleasant to rig & go.
I have 1 '97 in central florida. With the "M" type mast raising kit it's not too difficult. I added a trailer winch to my boompole and raising is a one person job. But- this is still a good sized mast,esp if you also have a furler, and doing this on a moving boat is not fun. Better to aanchor, just another nuisance. So, it is possible, but not, IMHO, practical to do on a regular basis. I've done it several times but I prefer on-trailer rigging. After you step the mast you still have to bolt on the boom then rig the sheets. Much more pleasant to rig & go.
I have the CDI Furler
with a second Forestay attached above the JIb on the mast, and to the mast transport fitting on the bow pulpit. I live about 4 miles from the launch ramp and have left the mast attached at the base, with the sail, boom, and cover on. The mast will go down far enough to clear all overhead wires, etc. through town. I do use the mast transport crutch and keep tension on the Furler and second Forestay while towing, mostly so a good bump or curb doesn't bend the mast, whether it would or not I don't know, but don't want to take a chance. If your bridge isn't to low I think it would clear, I haven't done it, but IMHO think it would be difficult to re-attach the CDI on the water. I find it's pretty heavy, and it take a lot of tension to re-insert the pin and ring-ding. Good luck........and we do love the 26X.
with a second Forestay attached above the JIb on the mast, and to the mast transport fitting on the bow pulpit. I live about 4 miles from the launch ramp and have left the mast attached at the base, with the sail, boom, and cover on. The mast will go down far enough to clear all overhead wires, etc. through town. I do use the mast transport crutch and keep tension on the Furler and second Forestay while towing, mostly so a good bump or curb doesn't bend the mast, whether it would or not I don't know, but don't want to take a chance. If your bridge isn't to low I think it would clear, I haven't done it, but IMHO think it would be difficult to re-attach the CDI on the water. I find it's pretty heavy, and it take a lot of tension to re-insert the pin and ring-ding. Good luck........and we do love the 26X.
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steve leon
I do it, no prob.
I am moorning my boat at a marina that is tucked away in a well protected cove at Detroit Lake, Oregon. In order to get there I have to go under a bridge with about 14-15 feet of clearance. It's all about the preparation. Try to prep the boat at anchor or pop into a slip for a few minutes to prepare. I have a CDI furler and an extra jib halyard. I use the jib halyard as a temporary forestay, and secure the furler to the gin pole then head toward the bridge. As we approach I release the temporary forestay and lower the mast to clear the bridge. Once on the other side I crank the mast back up, re-secure the temporary forestay, and motor into my slip. Once the boat is secure in the slip I re-do the rig. Kind of a hassle but not too bad. Just take it slow and double check everything before you approach the bridge. Replacing the clevis pin and split ring can be a bit tricky as you have to pull the forestay/furler hard enough to get the pin in. I've found it helps to release the backstay in order to accomplish that. Hope this helps, have fun and be safe.
I am moorning my boat at a marina that is tucked away in a well protected cove at Detroit Lake, Oregon. In order to get there I have to go under a bridge with about 14-15 feet of clearance. It's all about the preparation. Try to prep the boat at anchor or pop into a slip for a few minutes to prepare. I have a CDI furler and an extra jib halyard. I use the jib halyard as a temporary forestay, and secure the furler to the gin pole then head toward the bridge. As we approach I release the temporary forestay and lower the mast to clear the bridge. Once on the other side I crank the mast back up, re-secure the temporary forestay, and motor into my slip. Once the boat is secure in the slip I re-do the rig. Kind of a hassle but not too bad. Just take it slow and double check everything before you approach the bridge. Replacing the clevis pin and split ring can be a bit tricky as you have to pull the forestay/furler hard enough to get the pin in. I've found it helps to release the backstay in order to accomplish that. Hope this helps, have fun and be safe.
i add temp forestay also
i, too, added a second forestay above the furler mast fasten point and fasten it to the deck when raising/lowering mast. it's a simple process to raise and lower the mast with this extra halyard and block. I do not use my mast raising gear any longer, it sits in the garage. the other purpose for the second forestay is for added security while motoring fast. i fasten it to the bow pulpit railing (where the mast end sits while trailering) as a precaution if the furler were to become de-tached while motoring. i've heard of stories where the mast comes crashing down due to an old/defective pin or some such luck.
i, too, added a second forestay above the furler mast fasten point and fasten it to the deck when raising/lowering mast. it's a simple process to raise and lower the mast with this extra halyard and block. I do not use my mast raising gear any longer, it sits in the garage. the other purpose for the second forestay is for added security while motoring fast. i fasten it to the bow pulpit railing (where the mast end sits while trailering) as a precaution if the furler were to become de-tached while motoring. i've heard of stories where the mast comes crashing down due to an old/defective pin or some such luck.
Know your bridges
Used to sail out of Huntington Harbor, CA. You have to sail under a highway bridge (PCH)to get to the ocean. The best answer to your question depends on your rig and your bridge. Without a furling jib, it is pretty easy to rig an alternate forestay to the bow gear and run it back to the cockpit and around a winch. For a high bridge where you only need a foot or two, no problem. Be sure to check the tides if you are in a tidal area. If you need to completly lower the mast it is a little more difficult from the added weight and boom relocation. With a furler, the problem is worse because of the weight of the furling system. Whichever way you go, someone has to climb out to the bow, tighten the forestay and fit the pin and ringding. In a chop this can be pretty exciting. You don't need to disconnect any shrouds. The "baby" shrouds are only used when raising and lowering the mast. Sometimes they get too tight. Be sure they are working or the mast will veer to the side and possibly shear the mast tilt mechanism. How long? Like many sailing maneuvers, you get better with practice. My guess is that, given perfect conditions, experienced crew, and a bridge/tide level that only lacks a foot or so should only take about 5 extra minutes. If you have to figure things out as you go, a lot longer.
Used to sail out of Huntington Harbor, CA. You have to sail under a highway bridge (PCH)to get to the ocean. The best answer to your question depends on your rig and your bridge. Without a furling jib, it is pretty easy to rig an alternate forestay to the bow gear and run it back to the cockpit and around a winch. For a high bridge where you only need a foot or two, no problem. Be sure to check the tides if you are in a tidal area. If you need to completly lower the mast it is a little more difficult from the added weight and boom relocation. With a furler, the problem is worse because of the weight of the furling system. Whichever way you go, someone has to climb out to the bow, tighten the forestay and fit the pin and ringding. In a chop this can be pretty exciting. You don't need to disconnect any shrouds. The "baby" shrouds are only used when raising and lowering the mast. Sometimes they get too tight. Be sure they are working or the mast will veer to the side and possibly shear the mast tilt mechanism. How long? Like many sailing maneuvers, you get better with practice. My guess is that, given perfect conditions, experienced crew, and a bridge/tide level that only lacks a foot or so should only take about 5 extra minutes. If you have to figure things out as you go, a lot longer.
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