Mast Pipe Insulation Install: I had an idea for installing the pipe insulation. I bought it yesterday at Home Depot. They had two choices rubber and polystyrene. The cheaper styrene looked like it would crumble as it ages. I opted for the rubber, but it is like a wet noodle and most likely would not push into the mast. So I decided to tie a heavy sinker and SS washer on the bottom end of a fishing line to drop down the mast. Then tie a knot 2” from the end of the first piece of insulation, running it to the end and tying a second knot, then attaching the second piece butt end to the first. I’d tie a another knot 2” from the end to secure it to the first piece and pull the two pieces so that the end of the second piece is about 3-4 feet from top of mast to allow room for the foaming insulation. Then I’d secure the end of the fishing line to the top of the mast. I would leave the line in just in case I would need to remove for any reason. Many thanks to Glenn for the original idea. Steve
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Don
Most pipe insulation is hydroscopic
You might want to reconsider - most of this stuff absorbs moisture and over time will exacerbate internal corrosion of the fittings and other stuff not readily "inspectable". That's why the mfgs don't put it there in the first place.
You might want to reconsider - most of this stuff absorbs moisture and over time will exacerbate internal corrosion of the fittings and other stuff not readily "inspectable". That's why the mfgs don't put it there in the first place.
S
Sav'h Steve
Adsorb moisture? Co. Web info (Don)
Don, Thank you for your post. I didn't think of that so on your post I went to the Co Website for their info: "AP/Armaflex Pipe (Tube) Insulation is a flexible elastomeric thermal insulation, black in color, supplied as unslit tubing. The expanded closed-cell structure of AP/Armaflex Pipe Insulation makes it an efficient insulation. It is manufactured without the use of CFC's, HFC's or HCFC's. It is also formaldehyde free, low VOCs, fiber free, dust free and resists mold and mildew. Resistance to Moisture Vapor Flow The closed-cell structure of AP/Armaflex prevents moisture from wicking and makes it an efficient insulation. AP/Armaflex normally requires no supplemental vapor-retarder protection. Additional vapor-retarder protection may be necessary for AP/Armaflex when installed on very-low-temperature piping or where exposed to continually high humidity conditions." I was thinking rubber doesn't adsorb moisture, and that is as far as I went. What do you make different from their statement. And if I was the manufacturer and 'knew' the boats would turtle, I would do something about it. Steve
Don, Thank you for your post. I didn't think of that so on your post I went to the Co Website for their info: "AP/Armaflex Pipe (Tube) Insulation is a flexible elastomeric thermal insulation, black in color, supplied as unslit tubing. The expanded closed-cell structure of AP/Armaflex Pipe Insulation makes it an efficient insulation. It is manufactured without the use of CFC's, HFC's or HCFC's. It is also formaldehyde free, low VOCs, fiber free, dust free and resists mold and mildew. Resistance to Moisture Vapor Flow The closed-cell structure of AP/Armaflex prevents moisture from wicking and makes it an efficient insulation. AP/Armaflex normally requires no supplemental vapor-retarder protection. Additional vapor-retarder protection may be necessary for AP/Armaflex when installed on very-low-temperature piping or where exposed to continually high humidity conditions." I was thinking rubber doesn't adsorb moisture, and that is as far as I went. What do you make different from their statement. And if I was the manufacturer and 'knew' the boats would turtle, I would do something about it. Steve
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Don
Hard to generalize Steve
Their statement that "additional vapor protection may be nesessary...when exposed to high humidity" kind of speaks for itself. Most, if not all closed-cell foam will trap moisture, particularly when it has no place to ventilate (e.g., inside a mast). I may be wrong (won't be a first) so if it's already there, I'd wait a year and check it to see what happens - nothing catastrophic can happen by way of corrosion that fast.
Their statement that "additional vapor protection may be nesessary...when exposed to high humidity" kind of speaks for itself. Most, if not all closed-cell foam will trap moisture, particularly when it has no place to ventilate (e.g., inside a mast). I may be wrong (won't be a first) so if it's already there, I'd wait a year and check it to see what happens - nothing catastrophic can happen by way of corrosion that fast.
S
Sav'h Steve
Mast Corrosion with closed foam
Don, Thanks for your comments. I'm sure vapor in a closed space for a period of time will take its toll. OTOH, the mast will be open at the base which will be elevated most of the time in its support which will most likely keep it fairly dry even in the moist climate here in Savannah. The other alternative of having a near certain complete inversion in less than 25 feet of water (in the mud) if there is a knockdown seems like a worse event. The option of having a masthead float would work, but I really don't like that option either. I'm guessing that it would take many, many years for minor corrosion to weaken the mast. Just a guess, no hard evidence.
Don, Thanks for your comments. I'm sure vapor in a closed space for a period of time will take its toll. OTOH, the mast will be open at the base which will be elevated most of the time in its support which will most likely keep it fairly dry even in the moist climate here in Savannah. The other alternative of having a near certain complete inversion in less than 25 feet of water (in the mud) if there is a knockdown seems like a worse event. The option of having a masthead float would work, but I really don't like that option either. I'm guessing that it would take many, many years for minor corrosion to weaken the mast. Just a guess, no hard evidence.
Could mast be sealed?
Would it be possible to seal the mast with a silicon-type sealant after applying the floatation? Alternatively, replacing the floatation every 2 years - from those who have already done it, would that be a feasible alternative?
Would it be possible to seal the mast with a silicon-type sealant after applying the floatation? Alternatively, replacing the floatation every 2 years - from those who have already done it, would that be a feasible alternative?
The whole mast ?
I sealed all the fasteners, screws / rivets with clear silicon. Possible, if you plugged the hole at the top of the mast and sealed all the fasteners you wouldnt need the foam at all. I put it in just in case water did get in. If the hole was plugged and sealed along with the other fittings, no water should be able to get in unless it entered through the botom of the mast which is unlikely because how high up out of the water it is when you capsize. In any case, by plugging the hole at the top of your mast in itself and sealing it should allow you time to right your boat. If however water was leaking in to the mast from the fasteners or things that were not sealed, than it would become a matter of time before the mast took on enough water to turtle your boat:-( I was not aware of any one foaming or sealing their mast other than Danny Hartzell, and to my knowledge he has had no problems and has not replaced the liquid foam or the insulation pipe foam as yet.
I sealed all the fasteners, screws / rivets with clear silicon. Possible, if you plugged the hole at the top of the mast and sealed all the fasteners you wouldnt need the foam at all. I put it in just in case water did get in. If the hole was plugged and sealed along with the other fittings, no water should be able to get in unless it entered through the botom of the mast which is unlikely because how high up out of the water it is when you capsize. In any case, by plugging the hole at the top of your mast in itself and sealing it should allow you time to right your boat. If however water was leaking in to the mast from the fasteners or things that were not sealed, than it would become a matter of time before the mast took on enough water to turtle your boat:-( I was not aware of any one foaming or sealing their mast other than Danny Hartzell, and to my knowledge he has had no problems and has not replaced the liquid foam or the insulation pipe foam as yet.
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