I have noticed that the 34 has a problem with the mast kingpost. Could someone expound on this at what is the fix for it.
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This project is not for wimps!
Chuck: Depending what is wrong this can be a difficult to very difficult job. Allan Hadad replaced part of the cross member in his H'34. He has posted pictures on the Photo Forum (search on Hadad). His repair was actually more difficult than ours because of the crossmember and gelcoat repair. My repair was for the compression post (not the cross member) and the attached bulkhead. Our repair cost us about $3300. This included replacing the bulkhead, making a new compression post out of Stainless Steel and building a box around the structure and refinishing the wood. When it was done it actually looked better than the original.
Chuck: Depending what is wrong this can be a difficult to very difficult job. Allan Hadad replaced part of the cross member in his H'34. He has posted pictures on the Photo Forum (search on Hadad). His repair was actually more difficult than ours because of the crossmember and gelcoat repair. My repair was for the compression post (not the cross member) and the attached bulkhead. Our repair cost us about $3300. This included replacing the bulkhead, making a new compression post out of Stainless Steel and building a box around the structure and refinishing the wood. When it was done it actually looked better than the original.
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Chuck
So is this a common problem with all the 34s, or are there certain years that are effected. How can you determine if there is a problem? What should I be looking for. Thanks Chuck
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Derek Rowell
Maybe not all H34's
The early H34's had a different mast step (massive) that spread the load over a much larger deck area. A couple of years ago I did a survey on this site and asked if any of the early mast steps had the compression post problem. All the boats that had the problem were the newer design. Hardly scientific but... My '83 shows no sign of collapse. Derek
The early H34's had a different mast step (massive) that spread the load over a much larger deck area. A couple of years ago I did a survey on this site and asked if any of the early mast steps had the compression post problem. All the boats that had the problem were the newer design. Hardly scientific but... My '83 shows no sign of collapse. Derek
Personally
Personally, I believe this was either a problem that Hunter did not instruct the commissioning dealers properly or the dealers were lazy. I do not think that this would happen if the deck fitting was properly sealed. When our boat was repaired the pvc pipe had a DAB of silicone around it but is was actually loose.
Personally, I believe this was either a problem that Hunter did not instruct the commissioning dealers properly or the dealers were lazy. I do not think that this would happen if the deck fitting was properly sealed. When our boat was repaired the pvc pipe had a DAB of silicone around it but is was actually loose.
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Ron Dague
I'm with Derek
I also had fears about compression/king post problems when I bought my boat. I have a 1983 h34. I removed the teak from the post in the cabin and found no deterioration. Now the 1983's, at least the early ones such as mine, used a large metal plate under the mast on top of the cabin top. My informal monitoring of emails and this list suggest that those with that large plate, do not generally have the compression post problem. I don't think that you can inspect this without removing the teak from the post inside the cabin. that also means partially disassembly of the wall of the head/shower stall. Ron Dague S/V Finesse, H34 (1983) Miami, FL www.ExploreScuba.com
I also had fears about compression/king post problems when I bought my boat. I have a 1983 h34. I removed the teak from the post in the cabin and found no deterioration. Now the 1983's, at least the early ones such as mine, used a large metal plate under the mast on top of the cabin top. My informal monitoring of emails and this list suggest that those with that large plate, do not generally have the compression post problem. I don't think that you can inspect this without removing the teak from the post inside the cabin. that also means partially disassembly of the wall of the head/shower stall. Ron Dague S/V Finesse, H34 (1983) Miami, FL www.ExploreScuba.com
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Robert Cunningham
I hope it is true about the early 34's
I too have an early 1983 hunter 34 with the large black deck plate. This coming weekend I will be removing the teak covering, etc to see if the informal theory of: large black plate = no compression post damage, is true. In prior posts it appears that the later versions of the mast deck plates had a large (4 -5 '') hole in the center of the plate through which a PVC tube exited from the deck itself. I have no such large hole or PVC tube, just a small hole through which the various wires come out. This hole is gooped up with lots of silicone sealent. We will see. Bob Cunninham
I too have an early 1983 hunter 34 with the large black deck plate. This coming weekend I will be removing the teak covering, etc to see if the informal theory of: large black plate = no compression post damage, is true. In prior posts it appears that the later versions of the mast deck plates had a large (4 -5 '') hole in the center of the plate through which a PVC tube exited from the deck itself. I have no such large hole or PVC tube, just a small hole through which the various wires come out. This hole is gooped up with lots of silicone sealent. We will see. Bob Cunninham
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TOM MANALILI
REPAIR DETAILS
ONE: FIND 2-2"X4"X58" STUDS, NAIL EM TOGETHER, 1- 2"X4"PC'S OF STUD, AND A CAR SIZZOR OR HYD. JACK, INSTALL THE LITTLE PC ON TOP END, TWO" SET NAILED STUD ON TOP OF JACK,WITH THE LITTLE PC. ON TOP(NAILED) REMOVE PRESSURE, FROM COMPRESSION POST, AND REMOVE COMPRESSION POST. tHREE: THE ROTTED AREA IS OFCOURSE ON THE BOTTOM END, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE TEAK COVERING VERY CAREFULLY, WITH A CHIZZEL, ONCE THE TEAK IS REMOVED,FOUR: CUT OFF THE BOTTEM END AT THE 9" TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WIRE SLOT OR TRENCH IN THE BEAM, GO TO HOME DEPOT AND LOOK FOR A NICE CLEAN(NO KNOTS) PC. OF TREATED 4"X4" POST A FOOT LONG IF YOU CAN FIND IT, FIVE:MARK THE CENTER OF THE 4X4 AND DRILL A 1"DIA. HOLE, 3" DEEP THROUGH THE COMPRESSION POST AND THE NEW 4X4, CUT THE POST SIDES (TWO OR FOUR,) SO THAT THE POST MEASURES 3&3/8" SQUATE, BY APPROX. 9&1/4" LONG, USE A PC OF 1"DIA. S/S TUBING TO CENTRALIZE THE ADDITION, THE SHAVE SIDES FOR EXACT FIT, SIDE DRILL, THE POSTS AND TUBE FOR ALIGNMENT, EPOXY THE JOINTS TOGETHER AND REINSTALL THE TEAK, MAKE SURE THE 1&1/2" SQ. WIRE TRENCH IS CLEAR, OD DEBRIS, AND RETURN YOUR REPAIRED POST INTO POSITION, AND REMOVE THE JACK AND TEMP POST. GOOD LUCK.
ONE: FIND 2-2"X4"X58" STUDS, NAIL EM TOGETHER, 1- 2"X4"PC'S OF STUD, AND A CAR SIZZOR OR HYD. JACK, INSTALL THE LITTLE PC ON TOP END, TWO" SET NAILED STUD ON TOP OF JACK,WITH THE LITTLE PC. ON TOP(NAILED) REMOVE PRESSURE, FROM COMPRESSION POST, AND REMOVE COMPRESSION POST. tHREE: THE ROTTED AREA IS OFCOURSE ON THE BOTTOM END, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE TEAK COVERING VERY CAREFULLY, WITH A CHIZZEL, ONCE THE TEAK IS REMOVED,FOUR: CUT OFF THE BOTTEM END AT THE 9" TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WIRE SLOT OR TRENCH IN THE BEAM, GO TO HOME DEPOT AND LOOK FOR A NICE CLEAN(NO KNOTS) PC. OF TREATED 4"X4" POST A FOOT LONG IF YOU CAN FIND IT, FIVE:MARK THE CENTER OF THE 4X4 AND DRILL A 1"DIA. HOLE, 3" DEEP THROUGH THE COMPRESSION POST AND THE NEW 4X4, CUT THE POST SIDES (TWO OR FOUR,) SO THAT THE POST MEASURES 3&3/8" SQUATE, BY APPROX. 9&1/4" LONG, USE A PC OF 1"DIA. S/S TUBING TO CENTRALIZE THE ADDITION, THE SHAVE SIDES FOR EXACT FIT, SIDE DRILL, THE POSTS AND TUBE FOR ALIGNMENT, EPOXY THE JOINTS TOGETHER AND REINSTALL THE TEAK, MAKE SURE THE 1&1/2" SQ. WIRE TRENCH IS CLEAR, OD DEBRIS, AND RETURN YOUR REPAIRED POST INTO POSITION, AND REMOVE THE JACK AND TEMP POST. GOOD LUCK.
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TOM MANALILI
ADDED DATA
AFTER YOU GET THE POST REPAIRED, GLASS THE REPAIRED END, ABOUT A FOOT HIGH, TO KEEP THE SHOWER WASTE WATER FROM DESTROYING IT AGAIN.
AFTER YOU GET THE POST REPAIRED, GLASS THE REPAIRED END, ABOUT A FOOT HIGH, TO KEEP THE SHOWER WASTE WATER FROM DESTROYING IT AGAIN.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
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TOM MANALILI
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