Mast base blocks

[Justin_NSA]

Is it possible to replace one of these single sheave blocks with a double? Do they unscrew at the base? Or asking differently, how would I lead my topping lift line back to the cockpit? Right now it cleats to the starboard side of the mast. I've already replaced the line with enough to run it aft. It's long enough now to even lower the Dutchman clamps to an accessible height.

 

[JohnVTX]

If that pin, where it attaches is not removable, you can drill it and replace with whatever you want.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Found these threads. No double blocks. Dang! Maybe a call to them...
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/replace-turning-blocks-at-mast-base.27102/
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...r-zspars-blocks-that-screw-on-mast-base.6330/

 

[rgranger]

Screw one of these into the base of your mast and then shackle a block of your choice.

 

[sesmith]

I have similar ones on my boat. Mine have a nut on the back side. Depending on how much customization you want to do, Garhauer sells mast collar blocks for the same size hole (if it's the same as mine, it is 8mm (5/16"). Call them and request they put a double block on instead of the single that the catalog shows. They are very nice at accommodating special requests. One other thing to note, is that the blocks they show in the online catalog are fairly large (series 30). You can ask them to put a series 25 block on, and it will be closer in size to the 2" sheaves that are on you blocks.

If yours are threaded, you might have to cut the threaded end of the Garhauer ones down a little to fit the clearance you have under the mast step. They also sell add-on mast plates that you can use to increase the number of blocks you can attach to the base of the mast.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Mine probably have nuts on the back too. There are notches in the plate where you could slip a wrench into. I may do some calling.
rranger, your img links look broken on this end

 

[rgranger]

r img links look broken on this end

They are just some ss padeyes from seadog. I think you could easily add a padeye to the base of your mast, then shackle a new block. Of if you don't want to put any holes in your mast, you could use one of those large ss hose clamps they sell at lows for attaching dryer hose and run that through a shackle... then add a block. It would not look as nice but it would be just as functional. Since you are only using a topping lift line, it would not have a lot of strain on it anyway.

 

[sailme88]

My topping lift used to be made fast on a cleat on the boom at the gooseneck. NOW it is made fast to a cleat on the boom at the aft end. My topping lift is a bridle rig. The line is secured on the starboard side of the boom, runs thru a cheek block and up to a block on the topping lift back down, thru another cheek block and to that new cleat.

 

[Joe]

I would not attach a padeye, eye strap or any other type eye to the mast where the force will be pulling sideways and rubbing on the spar.... instead I suggest a cheek block on the mast.. directed toward the deck organizer. Cheek blocks are build in a number of base configurations... this would work for getting the angle toward the organizer.

You could also attach an upright lead block to the deck near the mast base...

Or you can use an eye strap to mount a regular block to the deck.
Something like this... only LARGER... use a "forged" eye strap so it will fit through the block's handle.

 

[Justin_NSA]

I like the cheek block at the base of the mast idea. No water intrusion worries.
Thanks all for the input!

 

[Sailor_Jeff]

Hi Justin, just curious, what are the 6 lines plus a boom vang on your mast for?

 

[Justin_NSA]

Hi Justin, just curious, what are the 6 lines plus a boom vang on your mast for?

They are outhaul, cunningham, main halyard, jib halyard. Spinnaker halyard and reefline.