What is the difference between a "Marine" starting battery and a regular automotive starting battery? My boat currently has a regular automotive battery and it's dying and needs to be replaced. I see that besides just the name that the marine battery shows "marine cranking amp" and the automotive battery shows "cold cranking amps."
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essentially nothing
Marine cranking amps and CCA are two measures based on different criteria so the two you are looking at could be equivalent, albeit the marine battery may be a gel or AGM. Either will serve the purpose of a starting battery. Said another way, a starting battery is a starting battery. The construction of the batteries starts to differ once you begin looking at dual-use batteries which has plates slightly larger than starting batteries but not as thick as deep cycle ones. Forget the label name and choose one based on actual construction type.
Marine cranking amps and CCA are two measures based on different criteria so the two you are looking at could be equivalent, albeit the marine battery may be a gel or AGM. Either will serve the purpose of a starting battery. Said another way, a starting battery is a starting battery. The construction of the batteries starts to differ once you begin looking at dual-use batteries which has plates slightly larger than starting batteries but not as thick as deep cycle ones. Forget the label name and choose one based on actual construction type.
Battery Manufacturer's council
Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. . The battery Manufacturer's council is the group that specifies how a battery is tested and rated. Marine Cranking Amps is a rating used to describe the number of amperes which a new, fully charged battery at 32 degrees F (0C), can continuously deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. . When a battery is warmer, it can put out more amps becuase the chemical process is more active. . Automotive starting batteries are made to put out high current for a short time, putting out about 10% of their total capacity before being recharged. They are made to be lighter in weight <better auto gas mileage>, and have thinner electrode plates, than Marine starting batteries/ or dual use Marine/RV batteries which have a greater ability to put out more current, for a longer time, before becoming damaged. One of the best ways to see what kind of value you are getting for your money is to compare batteries by the cost per pound. Heavier weight batteries usually cost more but are actually chaper per pound, and it's the lead in the plates that really determine battery life and power storage ability.
Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. . The battery Manufacturer's council is the group that specifies how a battery is tested and rated. Marine Cranking Amps is a rating used to describe the number of amperes which a new, fully charged battery at 32 degrees F (0C), can continuously deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. . When a battery is warmer, it can put out more amps becuase the chemical process is more active. . Automotive starting batteries are made to put out high current for a short time, putting out about 10% of their total capacity before being recharged. They are made to be lighter in weight <better auto gas mileage>, and have thinner electrode plates, than Marine starting batteries/ or dual use Marine/RV batteries which have a greater ability to put out more current, for a longer time, before becoming damaged. One of the best ways to see what kind of value you are getting for your money is to compare batteries by the cost per pound. Heavier weight batteries usually cost more but are actually chaper per pound, and it's the lead in the plates that really determine battery life and power storage ability.
its the terminals
Marine batteries have both "post" and "screw" terminals while auto batteries have "post" or the newer "screw" terminal that is so much fun to jump start. The batteries are internally the same. OBTW if my inveter draws 75 amps to run the admarals hair dryer for 5 minutes and my starter draws 50 amps for 25 seconds, why is everybody all stressed out about "I HAVE to have a starting battery to start my boat???? If you have all the same type of batteries it makes life so much easier. Just get another deep cycle battery and be done with it I can see a powerboat that might draw 300 amps but most of the sailboats I've ever seen would only draw that much if they had a dead short in the starter.
Marine batteries have both "post" and "screw" terminals while auto batteries have "post" or the newer "screw" terminal that is so much fun to jump start. The batteries are internally the same. OBTW if my inveter draws 75 amps to run the admarals hair dryer for 5 minutes and my starter draws 50 amps for 25 seconds, why is everybody all stressed out about "I HAVE to have a starting battery to start my boat???? If you have all the same type of batteries it makes life so much easier. Just get another deep cycle battery and be done with it I can see a powerboat that might draw 300 amps but most of the sailboats I've ever seen would only draw that much if they had a dead short in the starter.
Battery brand is more important
In novice terms (which fits me fine) CCA is a measure of amps at zero degrees Farenheit, while MCA is the same measure but at a higher temperature, ie 32 degrees or freezing. Same battery, two levels to measure on. Obviously CCA is the more rigorous scale. Cars are used in wider temperature ranges, boat use is more frequently above freezing. Batteries made by Dekka / EastPenn are good batteries; they may have a West Marine or other company's label on them (you would have to ask), but many commercial users have made them their 'official' battery, including Harley Davidson recently. Many car battery brands are geared toward typical auto use and lack the quality expected in marine use, but poor quality may be found in either.
In novice terms (which fits me fine) CCA is a measure of amps at zero degrees Farenheit, while MCA is the same measure but at a higher temperature, ie 32 degrees or freezing. Same battery, two levels to measure on. Obviously CCA is the more rigorous scale. Cars are used in wider temperature ranges, boat use is more frequently above freezing. Batteries made by Dekka / EastPenn are good batteries; they may have a West Marine or other company's label on them (you would have to ask), but many commercial users have made them their 'official' battery, including Harley Davidson recently. Many car battery brands are geared toward typical auto use and lack the quality expected in marine use, but poor quality may be found in either.
The terminals have changed
sizes in the last ten years so that you have to work very hard to get the polarity reversed. But for a starting battery the terminals are the most important match to be made. If the engine starts easily then even the size doesn't make much difference.
sizes in the last ten years so that you have to work very hard to get the polarity reversed. But for a starting battery the terminals are the most important match to be made. If the engine starts easily then even the size doesn't make much difference.
Use house for starter
Bill brings up a good point. I know you should have a separate battery from the house bank so you always have a way to start the engine if you drain the house batteries, but does anyone just start the engine with the house battery and keep the starting battery only for emergencies? This would make it easy to almost always keep the battery switch lined up to the house bank and not to have to switch back and forth. Of course this assumes that you're keeping the starting battery topped up by either being on shore power with the charger on with some frequency or remembering to charge the starting battery from the engine occasionally.
Bill brings up a good point. I know you should have a separate battery from the house bank so you always have a way to start the engine if you drain the house batteries, but does anyone just start the engine with the house battery and keep the starting battery only for emergencies? This would make it easy to almost always keep the battery switch lined up to the house bank and not to have to switch back and forth. Of course this assumes that you're keeping the starting battery topped up by either being on shore power with the charger on with some frequency or remembering to charge the starting battery from the engine occasionally.
Check a catalog
West Marine's catalogs and their on line Advisors, as well as googling "marine batteries" and BOAT US will answer that basic question. These answers are great, but may be beyond the answer to the question you were asking. Not much difference between the two except for cost. Your boat, your choice.
West Marine's catalogs and their on line Advisors, as well as googling "marine batteries" and BOAT US will answer that basic question. These answers are great, but may be beyond the answer to the question you were asking. Not much difference between the two except for cost. Your boat, your choice.
About $20
Anything that is labeled Marine is always more expensive. On a starter battery look for the cold cranking amps to establish comparison. They used to say that the difference between a $50 battery and a $100 battery was that the least expensive could last two years and the more expensive would last two years. Nowdays it seems like more money just buys you a better warranty.
Anything that is labeled Marine is always more expensive. On a starter battery look for the cold cranking amps to establish comparison. They used to say that the difference between a $50 battery and a $100 battery was that the least expensive could last two years and the more expensive would last two years. Nowdays it seems like more money just buys you a better warranty.
We have used House Battery
We have separate starting and house batteries but have started the boat many times with the house battery with no apparent ill effect. The little 20 hp volvo doesn't require that much energy to crank. It's probably more important with a larger engine.
We have separate starting and house batteries but have started the boat many times with the house battery with no apparent ill effect. The little 20 hp volvo doesn't require that much energy to crank. It's probably more important with a larger engine.
Diff in all Batteries
There is a huge difference in auto batteries. Do you want the $40 one or the $140 one. A starting battery has very porous plates which give up a lot of charge real fast and be recharged. Then you move into batteries which are dual purpose where the plates are a little more dense. They can give up a fast charge for starting but also can deal with some long term drain for running equipment, this group would be varying degrees of marine and deep cycle and can cover a wide spectrum. Then you have a true deep cycle with very heavy, dense plates for slow long term draw down, not real good at giving up fast charge for starting but by the sheer size of the bank can be used for starting. If you are only using the battery for starting, a mid level auto battery should do just fine.
There is a huge difference in auto batteries. Do you want the $40 one or the $140 one. A starting battery has very porous plates which give up a lot of charge real fast and be recharged. Then you move into batteries which are dual purpose where the plates are a little more dense. They can give up a fast charge for starting but also can deal with some long term drain for running equipment, this group would be varying degrees of marine and deep cycle and can cover a wide spectrum. Then you have a true deep cycle with very heavy, dense plates for slow long term draw down, not real good at giving up fast charge for starting but by the sheer size of the bank can be used for starting. If you are only using the battery for starting, a mid level auto battery should do just fine.
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