I just purchased a 1995 Hunter 336 and would like to add a windlass to it as I remember having difficulty raising the anchor on my previous Hunter 31 due to mucky conditions in Barnegat Bay. Simpson Lawrence makes both an electric and a manual model. Both are within $100 of each other in intitial cost, however, installation of the electric model (#650) is estimated at between $500 - $750. Would like to hear from owners of similiar size boats that have pros & cons of electric & manual. Thanks in advance
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Electric Windlass Installation
Aside from the cost of the wire( about $100.00), danged if I can see how the installation costs so much. It's not that difficult to do yourself. The hardest part is snaking the wires to the windlass. And take a look at the Maxwell. chuckwolfe@mail.com
Aside from the cost of the wire( about $100.00), danged if I can see how the installation costs so much. It's not that difficult to do yourself. The hardest part is snaking the wires to the windlass. And take a look at the Maxwell. chuckwolfe@mail.com
Windlass
Go for the electric. If you don't anchor often the manual will still be a great improvement over muscle power. It will also be more reliable. I have a 336 and sail in Barnegat Bay too. My Lewmar electric windlass works great. It is installed on the anchor roller plate. The center divider was ground back a few inches to allow for the installation. The chain/rode drops into the bow, between the hull and the water tank, thru a PVC tube. Watch the power draw - mine draws close to 80 amps under full load . You may want to look at upgrading your batteries. I agree with Charles. The installation should not be difficult. The electric installation includes two pneumatic deck switches. The wire is a straight run from the starboard battery bank to the bow thru the very accessable starboard wire run behind the electric panel. Remove the panel and take a look. There should be no problem running the wire. The installation cost does seem high. Every job is based on time and material. $100 more for the windlass is a given, that takes care of the material (assuming they are including some means of control - up/down switch - contactor - circuit breaker). The labor difference should be installation of the circuit breaker, controller, and switch(s). This should take four hours max. (they know what they are doing right?). Check your labor rate, and ask questions.
Go for the electric. If you don't anchor often the manual will still be a great improvement over muscle power. It will also be more reliable. I have a 336 and sail in Barnegat Bay too. My Lewmar electric windlass works great. It is installed on the anchor roller plate. The center divider was ground back a few inches to allow for the installation. The chain/rode drops into the bow, between the hull and the water tank, thru a PVC tube. Watch the power draw - mine draws close to 80 amps under full load . You may want to look at upgrading your batteries. I agree with Charles. The installation should not be difficult. The electric installation includes two pneumatic deck switches. The wire is a straight run from the starboard battery bank to the bow thru the very accessable starboard wire run behind the electric panel. Remove the panel and take a look. There should be no problem running the wire. The installation cost does seem high. Every job is based on time and material. $100 more for the windlass is a given, that takes care of the material (assuming they are including some means of control - up/down switch - contactor - circuit breaker). The labor difference should be installation of the circuit breaker, controller, and switch(s). This should take four hours max. (they know what they are doing right?). Check your labor rate, and ask questions.
Two sets of switches
Is it possible (reasonable in price and reasonable given the demands on the electrical capacity of the system) to install a second set of switches at the console?
Is it possible (reasonable in price and reasonable given the demands on the electrical capacity of the system) to install a second set of switches at the console?
Two Sets of Switches-What?
I'm not sure what you are really asking. The Windlass should be switched close to the battery and the manufacturers usually give you a switched circuit breaker to accomplish this. You have to run you engine when using your windlass because of the excessive amperage draw and you need a foot switch close to the windlass so that you can turn it off and on. Again, this usually comes with the unit itself. chuckwolfe@mail.com
I'm not sure what you are really asking. The Windlass should be switched close to the battery and the manufacturers usually give you a switched circuit breaker to accomplish this. You have to run you engine when using your windlass because of the excessive amperage draw and you need a foot switch close to the windlass so that you can turn it off and on. Again, this usually comes with the unit itself. chuckwolfe@mail.com
Windlass Alternatives
Weighing an anchor in muck, especially after some high winds, can be a lot of work; however, there is a couple alternatives that can help. Weighing by hand: Pull the rode up taught and sit it out for a few minutes. The up-and-down motion of the boat, even very slight, will often be enough to pull the anchor out of it's suction. Primaries: Run the rode aft to one of the primary winches. Put a snatch block on the toe rail to get a fair lead. One can sit in the cockpit and crank up on the rode and this is almost shure to bust even the most well set anchor free. Hope the above helps to provide some alternatives to more stuff on board. We put a lot of money in our boat that we'll never get out and one has to think about the day you'll sell the boat. If you do an installation, try to do a good job that'll help come resale time.
Weighing an anchor in muck, especially after some high winds, can be a lot of work; however, there is a couple alternatives that can help. Weighing by hand: Pull the rode up taught and sit it out for a few minutes. The up-and-down motion of the boat, even very slight, will often be enough to pull the anchor out of it's suction. Primaries: Run the rode aft to one of the primary winches. Put a snatch block on the toe rail to get a fair lead. One can sit in the cockpit and crank up on the rode and this is almost shure to bust even the most well set anchor free. Hope the above helps to provide some alternatives to more stuff on board. We put a lot of money in our boat that we'll never get out and one has to think about the day you'll sell the boat. If you do an installation, try to do a good job that'll help come resale time.
Second Switches
I have only had an electric unit on one of the rentals I enjoyed several years ago, and I know almost nothing about them, but as I recall the toe switches were near the windlass as Charles suggests. My question is: could one place a second set of toe switches (or some other switch system) in the cockpit so that the helmsperson could raise or lower the hook while at the helm? How much of the load do the switches (and therefore the lines to the switches) carry? Could you set it up to switch from either of the two locations? Do you see what I am after here? For single-handing this seems like a reasonable question. I am at least a year away from this addition, but my wife continues to inquire about the accessory.
I have only had an electric unit on one of the rentals I enjoyed several years ago, and I know almost nothing about them, but as I recall the toe switches were near the windlass as Charles suggests. My question is: could one place a second set of toe switches (or some other switch system) in the cockpit so that the helmsperson could raise or lower the hook while at the helm? How much of the load do the switches (and therefore the lines to the switches) carry? Could you set it up to switch from either of the two locations? Do you see what I am after here? For single-handing this seems like a reasonable question. I am at least a year away from this addition, but my wife continues to inquire about the accessory.
Second Switch-Remotes
Most of these units also provide you with the ability to put in a remote switch. You plug it in near the windlass and there is a long extension cord that you carry back with you to the cockpit. The remote doesn't have the power going through it so it doesn't carry a load. The foot switch has the load going through it and the remote jumps the foot switch. This is the only way that it can work if you think about it. ChuckWolfe@mail.com.
Most of these units also provide you with the ability to put in a remote switch. You plug it in near the windlass and there is a long extension cord that you carry back with you to the cockpit. The remote doesn't have the power going through it so it doesn't carry a load. The foot switch has the load going through it and the remote jumps the foot switch. This is the only way that it can work if you think about it. ChuckWolfe@mail.com.
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