I WANT MY FRESH WATER TANK SMELLING LIKE NEW ALL THE TIME. WHAT IS THE SECRET? WHAT CHEMICALS DO YOU USE?
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fresh water recommission
From the Mistress: Follow Peggie's directions - this works very well: Fresh water system (pre or post launch): Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (The simpler calculation is 1 quart of bleach/50 gal water) 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank. An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for system mainteance, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement. (the above is excerpts from the book at the link below) Related link
From the Mistress: Follow Peggie's directions - this works very well: Fresh water system (pre or post launch): Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (The simpler calculation is 1 quart of bleach/50 gal water) 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank. An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for system mainteance, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement. (the above is excerpts from the book at the link below) Related link
NO CHLORINE BLEACH FOR ALUMINUM TANKS
The alkalinity of the chlorox will corrode the tank and you will find a lot of floating salt particulates afterward. If you do not dilute the chlorox, it will get quite hot for a while -that is a sure sign that it is eating your tank. Do an experiment. Carefully put a teaspoonful in a clean empty pop can and stand back. The comment about cumulative effects vs long term storage of city water is simply not true. The comparison is not valid. City water has a far lower pH than chlorox and that is what makes the difference. The caustic in the solution will continue to react until it is expended - however long that takes. Drano is a mixture of caustic and aluminum - it gets hot from the same reaction. I suggest peroxide for aluminum tanks or you can do like I finally did and replace the tank with something more reasonable like plastic.
The alkalinity of the chlorox will corrode the tank and you will find a lot of floating salt particulates afterward. If you do not dilute the chlorox, it will get quite hot for a while -that is a sure sign that it is eating your tank. Do an experiment. Carefully put a teaspoonful in a clean empty pop can and stand back. The comment about cumulative effects vs long term storage of city water is simply not true. The comparison is not valid. City water has a far lower pH than chlorox and that is what makes the difference. The caustic in the solution will continue to react until it is expended - however long that takes. Drano is a mixture of caustic and aluminum - it gets hot from the same reaction. I suggest peroxide for aluminum tanks or you can do like I finally did and replace the tank with something more reasonable like plastic.
A
a
The Ancient method still works
Over a thousand years ago , when there was no chemicals, chlorox or other "stuff", people used to add wine to the water that was stored in clay containers. I tried it in the past on my boat an it works. Just make sure that the procentage of wine is not to high, or you may eventually get to the point of "happy state - I don't care". For a 20 gallon tank, a glass of wine would be sufficient.
Over a thousand years ago , when there was no chemicals, chlorox or other "stuff", people used to add wine to the water that was stored in clay containers. I tried it in the past on my boat an it works. Just make sure that the procentage of wine is not to high, or you may eventually get to the point of "happy state - I don't care". For a 20 gallon tank, a glass of wine would be sufficient.
a, they also added lead
to the wine. It made the wine sweeter. The practice (according to some)may have contributed to the downfall of an entire civilization. In WWII, soldiers were killed because they heated alcohol in their aluminum canteens. That was a result of the formation of aluminum alkoxide which is obviously not healthy to drink. I think that reaction requires heat - but why take the chance of adding alcohol to your water? You do cook with the water and maybe you have an aluminum pan. Why not just put a cleanout access into your tank and use it?
to the wine. It made the wine sweeter. The practice (according to some)may have contributed to the downfall of an entire civilization. In WWII, soldiers were killed because they heated alcohol in their aluminum canteens. That was a result of the formation of aluminum alkoxide which is obviously not healthy to drink. I think that reaction requires heat - but why take the chance of adding alcohol to your water? You do cook with the water and maybe you have an aluminum pan. Why not just put a cleanout access into your tank and use it?
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