Had a new mainsail made. Original finally wore out. New sail is larger then the old one. The sailmaker measured and had the old sail as well. The new sail larger and slightly overlaps the back stay. Sailmaker told me that they purposely make the sail as large as possible and that it's not a big deal that it overlaps, unless tacking is hindered. It also overlaps the halyard that helps hold up the boom. My question is: Is what the sailmakers telling me true or should I be concerned? It doesn't seem right to me and certainly the orginal didn't do this. Should I have them cut down the sail to where it doesn't overlap?
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It sounds true to me
Try it out a few times and if you have a problem, take it back to him. It sounds like you got a little extra sail area and that is always a good thing to have if you ask me. Do you have a Dutchman system? Your comment about the topping lift makes me think so. That is the halyard which supports the boom. You will need to very carefully set that up with a new sail. It will make a world of difference. The overlap with the topping lift is not likely to be a problem either.
Try it out a few times and if you have a problem, take it back to him. It sounds like you got a little extra sail area and that is always a good thing to have if you ask me. Do you have a Dutchman system? Your comment about the topping lift makes me think so. That is the halyard which supports the boom. You will need to very carefully set that up with a new sail. It will make a world of difference. The overlap with the topping lift is not likely to be a problem either.
watch for chafe
The contact with the backstay may cause the sail to chafe in that area. The topping lift should be eased when sailing anyway.
The contact with the backstay may cause the sail to chafe in that area. The topping lift should be eased when sailing anyway.
I had my cut down to avoid the hangup and chafe
On my h40.5, I installed the Stong track system on the mast and mainsail. This effectively moved the mainsail aft about 2inches so that it was now hitting the backstay when tacking. My problem was only at the head of the sail- see the attached picture. I had my sailmaker cut off about 4-5 inches of sail from the leach- essentally making the sail leach straight instead of curved between the top 3 battens. I never noticed any performance change due to the cut. However, before the cut the sail would hang up on the batten almost every time. I was concerned that I would eventually damage the sail if I didn't have the cut-down made.
On my h40.5, I installed the Stong track system on the mast and mainsail. This effectively moved the mainsail aft about 2inches so that it was now hitting the backstay when tacking. My problem was only at the head of the sail- see the attached picture. I had my sailmaker cut off about 4-5 inches of sail from the leach- essentally making the sail leach straight instead of curved between the top 3 battens. I never noticed any performance change due to the cut. However, before the cut the sail would hang up on the batten almost every time. I was concerned that I would eventually damage the sail if I didn't have the cut-down made.
That halyard ....
...on the back of your boom isn't. That's a topping lift and has no reason to stay there when you're sailing. It's always in the way and unless fully released will always affect sail shape. After your main is up, move it to the mast. Better still get rid of it all together and get a soild vang. If you have a full roached main(that's good) you can replace your wire backstay with spectra and hang it off a flicker at the masthead. This will keep the backstay clear of the main untill you crank down on the adjuster. I did this a few years ago, works great.
...on the back of your boom isn't. That's a topping lift and has no reason to stay there when you're sailing. It's always in the way and unless fully released will always affect sail shape. After your main is up, move it to the mast. Better still get rid of it all together and get a soild vang. If you have a full roached main(that's good) you can replace your wire backstay with spectra and hang it off a flicker at the masthead. This will keep the backstay clear of the main untill you crank down on the adjuster. I did this a few years ago, works great.
Alan, please explain
I don't understand what you are suggesting in your second paragraph. What is a 'flicker' and how does it keep the backstay away from the main?
I don't understand what you are suggesting in your second paragraph. What is a 'flicker' and how does it keep the backstay away from the main?
Thanks
Thanks for the info. Sorry I didn't use the right terminology. Next time I go sailing I am going to take it through a bunch of tacks and see what happens. I am concerned about chafing the new sail. I don't understand what spectra and a flicker are.
Thanks for the info. Sorry I didn't use the right terminology. Next time I go sailing I am going to take it through a bunch of tacks and see what happens. I am concerned about chafing the new sail. I don't understand what spectra and a flicker are.
RE: Backstay
Spectra is a line that is stonger than the same size wire and much lighter. It does not absorb water and is extremly chafe resistant. This is reason enough to replace the stock wire backstay. Add to this a 'flicker', a flexible rod (like a sail batten) to extend the backstay away from the masthead and clear of the roach of the main. Now when jibbing the main can move freely without touching the backstay. I'll include a pic of a Melges 32, you can see the flicker at the top of the mast facing aft. PS. I should add that this only works for boats with swept back speaders, as almost all Hunters do.
Spectra is a line that is stonger than the same size wire and much lighter. It does not absorb water and is extremly chafe resistant. This is reason enough to replace the stock wire backstay. Add to this a 'flicker', a flexible rod (like a sail batten) to extend the backstay away from the masthead and clear of the roach of the main. Now when jibbing the main can move freely without touching the backstay. I'll include a pic of a Melges 32, you can see the flicker at the top of the mast facing aft. PS. I should add that this only works for boats with swept back speaders, as almost all Hunters do.
Swept-back spreaders with a backstay?
I thought that the newer Hunters with the B&R rig and swept-back spreaders did not have a backstay?
I thought that the newer Hunters with the B&R rig and swept-back spreaders did not have a backstay?
Alan, Do You ..
Have a picture of the flicker on your 35.5 HL. What type of material did you use and how did you attach it to the top cap ?? RD
Have a picture of the flicker on your 35.5 HL. What type of material did you use and how did you attach it to the top cap ?? RD
Re: Backstay
Rich True, many Hunters these days don't have backstays. Of course, in that case there is no need to 'replace' it. However, that does not mean you cannot add one. Capt Bob I've got a pic of mine 'somewhere', just can't put my hands on it right away and I found this one. I'll post it as soon as I find it.
Rich True, many Hunters these days don't have backstays. Of course, in that case there is no need to 'replace' it. However, that does not mean you cannot add one. Capt Bob I've got a pic of mine 'somewhere', just can't put my hands on it right away and I found this one. I'll post it as soon as I find it.
The 33.5 has a backstay
The spreaders are not spread back as far as the newer Hunters. They tell me it is not a B&R rig. The standing rigging uses wires from the mast all the way down, and not short sections between spreaders. I replaced my topping lift last year with a Garhauer rigid vang. That has to be the best deal going for under $200.
The spreaders are not spread back as far as the newer Hunters. They tell me it is not a B&R rig. The standing rigging uses wires from the mast all the way down, and not short sections between spreaders. I replaced my topping lift last year with a Garhauer rigid vang. That has to be the best deal going for under $200.
Ken
The swept angle on the 33.5 is about 13 degrees. This is more than enough to support the mast without a backstay. You are correct, this is not a B&R rig. Rich, You can easily see in your pic that if your backstay were a foot or two farther back at the masthead, it would easily clear your main. This is exactly what the flicker does.
The swept angle on the 33.5 is about 13 degrees. This is more than enough to support the mast without a backstay. You are correct, this is not a B&R rig. Rich, You can easily see in your pic that if your backstay were a foot or two farther back at the masthead, it would easily clear your main. This is exactly what the flicker does.
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