Mainsail lowering

[phdoc007]

I went out in my Mac 25 last week and the wind really kicked up quickly on Lake Ontario. I lowered the mainsail as fast as I could as the boat started to heel way over (or should I say nearly tipped over). Well I got the sail down but as I tried to put some bungee cords around the boom to get the sail out of the way I noticed that I could get the lugs down close to the boom because they came out once I removed the little screw clamp from the track.

The channel widens out at the bottom to raise the mainsail (I hope I have explained this well enough). I want to be able to put the mainsail cover on. I haven't tried yet, but it seems that I cannot lower the lugs far enough down to do this.

What can I do to get the lugs further down the mast channel?
Bill

 

[caguy]

First of all you should probably learn how to reef the main (reduce the size of the main) in a situation like that. It really helps to calm things down when the wind waves kick up too. Secondly my sail cover goes over the sails with them stacked on top of the slug stop. Try it and see, if not you have the wrong cover. You might also want to search the archives for the subject of lazy-jacks also called ez jacks. There is a detailed manual in the Mac 25 boat info section of this site on Lazy jacks.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Excellent response caguy!
You only remove the slug stop when you are removing the mainsail from the mast. There should be plenty of room still for the sail cover. Add lazy jacks and you can just drop the sail when you come into port. You won't need to worry about bungeeing the sail until you put her away. I guess that's why they're called "lazy" jacks.
As mentioned, reefing early is the key to sailing in windy conditions.

 

[phdoc007]

Reefing points

My mainsail does not have any reefing points. How and where can I add some?

 

[Justin_NSA]

My mainsail does not have any reefing points. How and where can I add some?

Probably a sail loft. They would need to reinforce the spots where the cringles would go. Might be a project for the off season.

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

Your cover may be the wrong one as stated, but the best solution would be a slug channel gate. This will allow the slugs to go right down the mast to the boom and back up when shaking out the reef or simply raising the sail. More than likely you'll have to make one(search the archives and make sure you leave a little room at the bottom to get the slugs in when bending the sails on at the beginning of the season).
I've been planning one for a couple of years now, since I have to remove the slug stopper to reef-still requiring climbing on deck even though all lines lead to the cockpit. Your Mac probably has a wide flare like mine for the original bolt rope and few ready made gates fit. Make sure you use aluminum or it will rust when exposed. I'm getting a new gutter on my house and the workers will let me hack a section of it off before carting the old one away - finally the right material available dirt cheap!! :dance: I'll post pics when I get it done hopefully soon.

 

[caguy]

When reefing I have found that if the top is open I can reach the mast from the cabin. I also have a 1 hole rubber stopper (courtesy of the Chemistry dept) to put on the horn to keep the reef tack from falling off while I scramble back to the cockpit. I can also reach the horn by standing on the companion way and laying across the cabin top. Its a bit of a reach but feels safer than walking on the deck when the boat is being tossed about.

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

I haven't looked too close at the 25 yet, Caguy, even though I'm already planning for the future "retirement" boat to be a 26 C or D but maybe a 25 since I don't know if I'll ever get the admiral to venture out of sight of land. My little 21 cabin top, when slid all the way back, still prevents my reaching the slug stopper(I use a bungee for it these days)even when standing on the portapottie or large cooler when I have it in the cabin. The flare on the 21 prevents any ready made gate but I think the material (aluminum gutter) planned might be strong enough to build the channel and also keep the main from a sagging wrinkle when reefed which may be the real reason that my boat won't point hardly at all when reefed.

 

[Sumner]

.........................l and also keep the main from a sagging wrinkle when reefed which may be the real reason that my boat won't point hardly at all when reefed.

When we reefed our sail looked like s......, well I'd better not say it here, but maybe what I posted on another board would help you when you reef. Don't forget I've never had training, so don't know if this is the correct way or not, but it works for us and now the sail looks good when reefed and the boom is still above the bimini. Well anyway here is a copy of what I posted.........

We had that problem when we first went out. On our recent trip I found I wasn't reefing right. Now when I reef I start at the mast and work out and pull the sail out on the boom as far as possible before tying it with the first tie point as far from the mast as possible pulling the sail out that way and tying it tight to the mast. Then I gather and pull the sail out as far as possible on the boom and make the second tie. If it is the first reef where there are 3 ties on our boat I again pull it out the boom as far as possible before tying it. Last I remove the outhaul line or whatever it is called from the end of the sail where it goes out to the cleat at the end of the boom and just tie it off around the boom. Then I take another line I made that is long enough and put it through the grommet at the outer end of the sail at the reef point and pull the sail out on the boom as hard as I can and cleat it off. I also have a second smaller line that is attached to the line at the grommet and pull the sail down to the boom at the grommet with that line and tie it off.
Now the sail is pulled out on the boom and down tight to the boom and the boom is now as high above the bimini as it is when it isn't reefed. Now if I put a second reef in I first tie off the first one except for the line at the end that I only use on the grommet at the final reef point. Again the boom is above the bimini where it normally is.
I use to have you problem when I just gathered the sail and tied it and didn't really get it good and tight out at the end of the boom and cleated there. Now I don't know if what we are doing is right or wrong as we haven't ever received any help on this, but I do know it is now working and the boom is up where it should be and the sail looks good after it is reefed.
I installed a topping lift (see my web site), but only use it to hold the boom up while reefing or raising and at night on anchor. I find it very helpful and well worth the small expense for it and the time it took to install.
c ya, Sum & Ruth

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

I do my reefing pretty much the same way, Sumner. I opted for the forward reef line to be attached to the boom instead of a reef horn on the mast and the rear line(set well aft of the reef cringle has a mechanical advantage built in. These are both on the port side of the boom - despite my request to the rigger for starboard side where my haylard lines lead to the cockpit - and can be done in short order(except for swinging the boom starboard after lowering the sail the needed amount). Mine is a single rather deep reef point that looks fine until I start sailing. Once underway, at least one slug now pulls out of the flare in the mast(it actually is located close to it when in the reef positon). I'm hoping the gate will prevent this..

 

[timebandit]

I took a defferent tack.

I closed up the feeding slot and opened another below the boom.

Now I load the sail by inserting the slugs in the lowered slot and raise the sail and then attach the boom.

Now when reefing or lowering the slugs can go to the bottom of the slot without ever comming out.