Took delivery on my 1999 340 in May. Since then have had problems in hoisting the main sail. The last 6'-8' are a real chore. The dealer has been over the rigging a number of times but cannot find the problem. The best they can do is make it tolerable. My next step is to remove the reefing lines. Any help out there.
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Main sail
It helped on our 340 to leave the reef lines alone, do not pull them back through the stoppers when lowering the main just tuck all the reefing lines in the sail cover. It sure helped us hope it works for you Leslie & Andy 340 wanderlust
It helped on our 340 to leave the reef lines alone, do not pull them back through the stoppers when lowering the main just tuck all the reefing lines in the sail cover. It sure helped us hope it works for you Leslie & Andy 340 wanderlust
Hard to raise mainsail
Had a similiar problem on my '95 35.5. After 4 years, the main halyard started to shred. Dealer had installed the halyard incorrectly at the top of the mast. Just hard to raise until it wears through a plate at the top of the mast.
Had a similiar problem on my '95 35.5. After 4 years, the main halyard started to shred. Dealer had installed the halyard incorrectly at the top of the mast. Just hard to raise until it wears through a plate at the top of the mast.
Mainsail
Jim, I appreciate your input to my question. Now to your problem. With the big full roach main allowed by the B&R rig, yours is a common problem and not limited to the 340/336 line. There was a thread regarding this about 6 to 12 months ago on this very topic and may be in the archives. The most elegant solution was to rig a block at the mast head so the main halyard has a 2:1 purchase. One of my dockmates did this on their 376 and tell me it made all the difference. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
Jim, I appreciate your input to my question. Now to your problem. With the big full roach main allowed by the B&R rig, yours is a common problem and not limited to the 340/336 line. There was a thread regarding this about 6 to 12 months ago on this very topic and may be in the archives. The most elegant solution was to rig a block at the mast head so the main halyard has a 2:1 purchase. One of my dockmates did this on their 376 and tell me it made all the difference. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
WD 40 slides and turning blocks
I had the same problem on my 340. This past weekend, I put some WD 40 on the mainsail slides and lubricated the turning blocks for the reefing lines, as suggested in another thread on this site a couple of weeks ago. It does seem to have helped. I, also, like the previous suggestion of not pulling the two reefing lines back taunt after dropping the mainsail, thus reducing the friction as they are pulled back through the rigging as you raise the main. I had not thought of that and frankly didn't know what to do with them. It seemed like poor seamanship to just leave them in a pile at the base of the mast. Now, maybe I can figure a way of stuffing them into the sail cover. I plan on pursuing the other sugggestion of adding another block at the mast for the main halyard to get the 2:1 purchase. Need to talk to my dealer to figure out how to do that. Good luck! Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
I had the same problem on my 340. This past weekend, I put some WD 40 on the mainsail slides and lubricated the turning blocks for the reefing lines, as suggested in another thread on this site a couple of weeks ago. It does seem to have helped. I, also, like the previous suggestion of not pulling the two reefing lines back taunt after dropping the mainsail, thus reducing the friction as they are pulled back through the rigging as you raise the main. I had not thought of that and frankly didn't know what to do with them. It seemed like poor seamanship to just leave them in a pile at the base of the mast. Now, maybe I can figure a way of stuffing them into the sail cover. I plan on pursuing the other sugggestion of adding another block at the mast for the main halyard to get the 2:1 purchase. Need to talk to my dealer to figure out how to do that. Good luck! Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
Heave Ho...
Jim, if you were snugging up the reefing lines, don't. It is a bit messy, but that is a large magnitude of difference. Try sailcoat on the slides and be sure you have lots of slack in the mainsheet and vang. Then try a 2 to 1 purchase if after all that, it is still a problem. Good luck, RD
Jim, if you were snugging up the reefing lines, don't. It is a bit messy, but that is a large magnitude of difference. Try sailcoat on the slides and be sure you have lots of slack in the mainsheet and vang. Then try a 2 to 1 purchase if after all that, it is still a problem. Good luck, RD
2:1 Purchase...questions.
It that the additional purchase may allow too much high tension pull on the sail and slides. Could this cause too much strain on the equiptment? Is the equiptment designed for that? I'd check with Hunter before persuing that option. I only have slides in the track on my boat and WD40 did the trick for me.
It that the additional purchase may allow too much high tension pull on the sail and slides. Could this cause too much strain on the equiptment? Is the equiptment designed for that? I'd check with Hunter before persuing that option. I only have slides in the track on my boat and WD40 did the trick for me.
Hard to hoist
Jim, I had the same problem with my 430, an extremely difficult job to raise the huge main. Problem was solved fairly simply by: replacing the sheave at the masthead with a ball-bearing one made by Shaefer ( by the way, original installation had erroneously fed the halyard over TWO sheaves, and then replacing the halyard with the next smaller diameter, but made out of Sta-set, a stronger material Good luck Pete Burger S/V KAILANI
Jim, I had the same problem with my 430, an extremely difficult job to raise the huge main. Problem was solved fairly simply by: replacing the sheave at the masthead with a ball-bearing one made by Shaefer ( by the way, original installation had erroneously fed the halyard over TWO sheaves, and then replacing the halyard with the next smaller diameter, but made out of Sta-set, a stronger material Good luck Pete Burger S/V KAILANI
My 340 Mainsail
When I first got my 340 I had some difficulties raising the main. It is a big sail! I learned to leave the reef lines loose, I don't pull them back in when lowering the sail as was mentioned in a previous post. The other thing, I make sure that the boom vang is slack with no tension. When I hoist the main, I have to be headed directly into the wind so as not to get the battens caught on the lazy jacks. Once all these things are observed I have had less problem raising the main. It is a possibility that there is some foreign material in the track or the track has some damage. I made a device to clean and lube the sail track and clean out the spider nests but I haven't had to do this yet on my 340. I hope you solve the problem, let us know the solution if you find it.
When I first got my 340 I had some difficulties raising the main. It is a big sail! I learned to leave the reef lines loose, I don't pull them back in when lowering the sail as was mentioned in a previous post. The other thing, I make sure that the boom vang is slack with no tension. When I hoist the main, I have to be headed directly into the wind so as not to get the battens caught on the lazy jacks. Once all these things are observed I have had less problem raising the main. It is a possibility that there is some foreign material in the track or the track has some damage. I made a device to clean and lube the sail track and clean out the spider nests but I haven't had to do this yet on my 340. I hope you solve the problem, let us know the solution if you find it.
Slides
Jim, One other thing you might try. Part of the problem is that the full battons have a tendency to droop when you are raising and lowering the main. This droop causes a twist in the batton socket that is transmitted to the sail slide that is immediately below each socket. This causes the slide to bind in the track whenever the sail is not under tension, as when raising or lowering. You can replace the 4 or 5 slides that are immediately under the pockets with some that are impregnated with teflon. Each slide costs about $4 or $5 and you can do the replacement yourself. It made a huge difference in my sail. One other thing, I would be careful about using a petrolum based product like WD-40 around my sails. There are a number of other products that are sail friendly. In fact, a dishwashing detergent like Joy can be squeezed into the track and will make a significant difference. It also will be washed out in the first rain and will help, not hurt, the sail. Good luck Les
Jim, One other thing you might try. Part of the problem is that the full battons have a tendency to droop when you are raising and lowering the main. This droop causes a twist in the batton socket that is transmitted to the sail slide that is immediately below each socket. This causes the slide to bind in the track whenever the sail is not under tension, as when raising or lowering. You can replace the 4 or 5 slides that are immediately under the pockets with some that are impregnated with teflon. Each slide costs about $4 or $5 and you can do the replacement yourself. It made a huge difference in my sail. One other thing, I would be careful about using a petrolum based product like WD-40 around my sails. There are a number of other products that are sail friendly. In fact, a dishwashing detergent like Joy can be squeezed into the track and will make a significant difference. It also will be washed out in the first rain and will help, not hurt, the sail. Good luck Les
Friction!
I had the same problems on my H336. I tried everything, finally installed "Strong Track" and have no more problems except the person who installed the turning blocks under the deck hood had the main halyard sheave so tight it would barely turn. This made the last 6' lift pretty tough even with the track. I finally took the hood off and fixed the problem. Now a lift is hand over hand from the cockpit with the winch only used for final luff tension. Also, don't use WD-40 on anything that is around your sails or lines. It stains and collects dirt. It may work for a season but you'll regret it next year. Lots of good dry lubes on the shelf.
I had the same problems on my H336. I tried everything, finally installed "Strong Track" and have no more problems except the person who installed the turning blocks under the deck hood had the main halyard sheave so tight it would barely turn. This made the last 6' lift pretty tough even with the track. I finally took the hood off and fixed the problem. Now a lift is hand over hand from the cockpit with the winch only used for final luff tension. Also, don't use WD-40 on anything that is around your sails or lines. It stains and collects dirt. It may work for a season but you'll regret it next year. Lots of good dry lubes on the shelf.
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