Photo With Another Configuration
Re the OEM 1980 H36 traveller. I once tried to take it all apart for the heck of it. But all the screws/bolts are rock solid after 30 years and won't turn .. even after a few days of liquid wrench and for a couple of bolts I even put the propane torch to them. Its the SS vs Aluminum thing. So Jim, apart from the budget, replacing the car's bearings etc might prove to be more effort than its worth. If you're looking for a jump start, I instead would explore different block arrangements. See below. This is the time of year when marine flea markets and swaps happen. With some imagination, you might be able to pick up all the needed blocks and shackles for not much more than one block would otherwise cost new.
Attached are photos of the setup of my 1980 H36 as configured when I bought it. (The lines are new.) The traveller car, the rail and the end sheaves are the same as on Jim's boat. Looking at mine, I have no doubt these are original. The deck top is molded exact for the rail and the end sheaves. When I bought the boat, all the gelcoat in the area was original with no indication of filled holes.
What is different from Jim's are the Harken blocks. A PO installed mini Harken doubles, so I get a 5:1 purchase. The car moves easily when the mainsheet has little tension, but friction increases if the main sheet is under pressure. If the wind isn't too strong and I haven't cranked in the mainsheet to high tension with the winch, I am able to pull the traveller to windward without too much difficulty. My traveller car does look sound. I don't think its about ready to fail.
I am considering using a silicone spray to lub the rollers and track.
