I left Mahone Bay under an absolutely flawless blue sky, motoring over a water surface nearly as devoid of ripples, and quickly left the smell of money behind me. It’s a beautiful cruising ground but that slight and pervasive odor puts if farther down my list than it might be.
My entrance to Mahone Bay had been in 1/8 mile visibility so it was a joy to have St. Margaret’s Bay open up under big blue sky as I rounded the last headland. Right in the middle of the view is one of the most beautiful islands I have seen anywhere. This bay immediately jumped right up near the top of my list of favorite places.
Just before entering though, I passed a huge hotel and then a patch of lobster pots I presume are set under special permit to supply the dining room. Both from the locals and from observation I have learned a disturbing thing about Nova Scotia lobster gear. Since their season doesn’t conflict much with yachting, they make no attempt to make the gear boater friendly. Buoys are set on 50 - 100 feet of floating rope trailing invisibly along the surface. My friends in Lunenburg say they never leave the dock during lobster season.
I motored up to Hubbards Cove where there are two Endeavour 32’s with owners I’d promised to stop and meet and compare notes with. An enticing southwest breeze was springing up at my back as I entered the harbor and I realized that, after the run of recent bad weather, anyone in their right mind with a boat would be out sailing. I took a quick look, didn’t see any E 32’s and, being in my right mind myself, set my sails and started beating down the bay.
It was a marvelous sail. I circumnavigated the incredible island and then ran up through a delightful collection of islands and channels. I made the nice discovery that my wind vane will steer the boat dead downwind with the jib winged out.
I’d planned to return to Hubbard’s but the wind went light earlier than planned and I’d worn myself out so I anchored in protected cove and called it a day. I plan to be back every year for the next couple of decades so I’ll see those folks another time.
The weather report presented a conundrum. A fine day next followed by two days of hard rain. Poke around some more and risk seeing some of the best part of the coast in rain and mist or arrive at Halifax a few days early? I took door number one and am I glad I did.
The next morning, I watched a purse seiner bringing in it’s nets against the backdrop of Peggie’s Cove, the most iconic place on the coast. I then motored along and through a stretch of coast that had the little guy in my head jumping up and down and yelling, Yes! Yes! That’s what I’m talking about. This is what we came all this way to see!. I thought of stopping but decided on just a quick look to be the stuff of winter dreams and plan to spend several days here next year.
The wind came up just as I rounded Ketch Head at the entrance to Halifax Bay. I sailed right up the bay, through the city, through the narrows, and into Bedford Basin. I went all the way to the head of the bay where I was told there was an anchorage, set the hook just off a yacht club, and went below for a nap. I woke from a dream that a tornado was approaching and looked out to see that it looked like it. Fully awake, I realized that this is a Jet Ski yacht club. Nearly a dozen were whipping the water to a circular froth 50 yards from my boat. I won’t be coming back here.
The night was quiet. The morning was threatening but the rain held off. I motored down to the Yacht Club / Marina in Wright’s Cove, topped off fuel, and filled the ice chest. They told me of free dockage back at the basin under construction in Bedford across from the first yacht club. I motored back, restocked the larder at the supermarket about five minutes walk away and had lunch ashore.
I then motored down to anchor in the small cove at the inner end of McNabbs Island across from the waterfront. I took a walk ashore to look at antique forts with their massive civil war era guns still mounted. I’m back on the boat still waiting for the rain to begin at 2000. This day was a gift but it sounds like it will make up for it tomorrow.
Strider finally moored on the Halifax waterfront, a goal of mine for five years.
More Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1724375809658.71759.1846284215&l=cfee9aef25&type=1
My entrance to Mahone Bay had been in 1/8 mile visibility so it was a joy to have St. Margaret’s Bay open up under big blue sky as I rounded the last headland. Right in the middle of the view is one of the most beautiful islands I have seen anywhere. This bay immediately jumped right up near the top of my list of favorite places.
Just before entering though, I passed a huge hotel and then a patch of lobster pots I presume are set under special permit to supply the dining room. Both from the locals and from observation I have learned a disturbing thing about Nova Scotia lobster gear. Since their season doesn’t conflict much with yachting, they make no attempt to make the gear boater friendly. Buoys are set on 50 - 100 feet of floating rope trailing invisibly along the surface. My friends in Lunenburg say they never leave the dock during lobster season.
I motored up to Hubbards Cove where there are two Endeavour 32’s with owners I’d promised to stop and meet and compare notes with. An enticing southwest breeze was springing up at my back as I entered the harbor and I realized that, after the run of recent bad weather, anyone in their right mind with a boat would be out sailing. I took a quick look, didn’t see any E 32’s and, being in my right mind myself, set my sails and started beating down the bay.
It was a marvelous sail. I circumnavigated the incredible island and then ran up through a delightful collection of islands and channels. I made the nice discovery that my wind vane will steer the boat dead downwind with the jib winged out.
I’d planned to return to Hubbard’s but the wind went light earlier than planned and I’d worn myself out so I anchored in protected cove and called it a day. I plan to be back every year for the next couple of decades so I’ll see those folks another time.
The weather report presented a conundrum. A fine day next followed by two days of hard rain. Poke around some more and risk seeing some of the best part of the coast in rain and mist or arrive at Halifax a few days early? I took door number one and am I glad I did.
The next morning, I watched a purse seiner bringing in it’s nets against the backdrop of Peggie’s Cove, the most iconic place on the coast. I then motored along and through a stretch of coast that had the little guy in my head jumping up and down and yelling, Yes! Yes! That’s what I’m talking about. This is what we came all this way to see!. I thought of stopping but decided on just a quick look to be the stuff of winter dreams and plan to spend several days here next year.
The wind came up just as I rounded Ketch Head at the entrance to Halifax Bay. I sailed right up the bay, through the city, through the narrows, and into Bedford Basin. I went all the way to the head of the bay where I was told there was an anchorage, set the hook just off a yacht club, and went below for a nap. I woke from a dream that a tornado was approaching and looked out to see that it looked like it. Fully awake, I realized that this is a Jet Ski yacht club. Nearly a dozen were whipping the water to a circular froth 50 yards from my boat. I won’t be coming back here.
The night was quiet. The morning was threatening but the rain held off. I motored down to the Yacht Club / Marina in Wright’s Cove, topped off fuel, and filled the ice chest. They told me of free dockage back at the basin under construction in Bedford across from the first yacht club. I motored back, restocked the larder at the supermarket about five minutes walk away and had lunch ashore.
I then motored down to anchor in the small cove at the inner end of McNabbs Island across from the waterfront. I took a walk ashore to look at antique forts with their massive civil war era guns still mounted. I’m back on the boat still waiting for the rain to begin at 2000. This day was a gift but it sounds like it will make up for it tomorrow.
Strider finally moored on the Halifax waterfront, a goal of mine for five years.
More Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1724375809658.71759.1846284215&l=cfee9aef25&type=1