The swing keel did not lower. It is stuck in up position. Have pulled boat from lake and it is on a MacGregor trailer. Looking for ideas to fix this problem. Help... Thanks...
Macgregor 1995 26C keel stuck up
- Thread starter Nick1218
- Start date
1995 would be a swing keel correct? 26S? Could be gunked up in the slot it tucks into. Or maybe the cable is bound up somehow?
This is the only really difficult maintenance/repair issue with my 26S (or C if you prefer, same thing) that I have undertaken. Once you free the centerboard you may need to remove it to remedy whatever caused it to stick.
First thing is to crawl underneath and see if you can identify and remedy the problem without going further - algae build-up, sediment or other debris from beaching, damage to the centerboard, etc. If no immediate issue can be found, it's possible that the pivot bolt is bent. The bolt can be replaced without dropping the centerboard if you support it properly. I will describe how to access it below.
If you decide you need to remove the centerboard, the V-shaped crossbar that centers and supports it doesn't provide enough room to slide it out. Removal of the centerboard can be done with with the boat on the trailer, sort of. You will need to build a crib to support the section aft of the trailer wheels. This can be done with regular 2x4s, framing nails and lag bolts. I can send a pic of mine if you like. Make it so it will just fit once the transom is as high off the ground as it will get. Tie a rope or strap around the entire boat athwartship to make sure the centerboard does not fall down. Once the crib is in place, raise the tongue of the trailer until the boat is lifted enough above the trailer to slide the centerboard out once you have removed the pivot bolt.
Removing the centerboard pivot bolt is simple in concept, but is not without difficulty. It is accessed by removing the access ports, one located in the middle of the cabin to the left of the galley, just under the black cover plate. You can't miss it. The other is under the galley, which is a rather tight area. They are held in place by 6? 8? bolts, and if they have never been removed are likely stuck on so hard that you will destroy them during removal. You can make your own replacements out of HDPE or order some from Blue Water Yachts. When re-installed, take great care to seal them well lest they allow water from the ballast to escape and leak into the under-deck areas. Take it from me on this one.
Once the cover plates are removed you can access the bolt and nut for removal. Adjust your supports so that it slides out as easily as possible. Once removed, if you find it is bent, either straighten it or replace it once you have freed the centerboard. Tie a string to your wrenches so they do not slide out of reach under the cabin deck if you drop one.
Underneath, with the centerboard well-supported, try to work it loose. Get a gravity assist by gradually lowering your supports. Once it is free, gradually lower your supports until you can remove it and disconnect the lift cable. Clean the trunk and centerboard. Replace or repair the centerboard as necessary, and re-install in reverse order.
IMPORTANT CAUTIONS:
-When working under the boat, place jack stands, cinder blocks, or whatever to keep the boat from crushing you if your primary supports fail.
-The centerboard is solid fiberglass and quite heavy (85 lbs, I think). Keep your hands and fingers away from potential pinch points.
Regarding the centerboard support rod (the V-shaped one mentioned earlier). I made mine removable by cutting it off about 6 inches from where it is welded to the trailer. I then welded on a few short sections of angle iron to the portions still attached to the trailer so that they cradle the portion cut from the middle. With the middle section back in place, drill holes through the rod to accommodate retainer bolts (stainless steel, of course). Treat and paint to retard corrosion. Doing this will mod will make future centerboard maintenance much easier.
Please let me know if any of this needs further elaboration, and best of luck!
First thing is to crawl underneath and see if you can identify and remedy the problem without going further - algae build-up, sediment or other debris from beaching, damage to the centerboard, etc. If no immediate issue can be found, it's possible that the pivot bolt is bent. The bolt can be replaced without dropping the centerboard if you support it properly. I will describe how to access it below.
If you decide you need to remove the centerboard, the V-shaped crossbar that centers and supports it doesn't provide enough room to slide it out. Removal of the centerboard can be done with with the boat on the trailer, sort of. You will need to build a crib to support the section aft of the trailer wheels. This can be done with regular 2x4s, framing nails and lag bolts. I can send a pic of mine if you like. Make it so it will just fit once the transom is as high off the ground as it will get. Tie a rope or strap around the entire boat athwartship to make sure the centerboard does not fall down. Once the crib is in place, raise the tongue of the trailer until the boat is lifted enough above the trailer to slide the centerboard out once you have removed the pivot bolt.
Removing the centerboard pivot bolt is simple in concept, but is not without difficulty. It is accessed by removing the access ports, one located in the middle of the cabin to the left of the galley, just under the black cover plate. You can't miss it. The other is under the galley, which is a rather tight area. They are held in place by 6? 8? bolts, and if they have never been removed are likely stuck on so hard that you will destroy them during removal. You can make your own replacements out of HDPE or order some from Blue Water Yachts. When re-installed, take great care to seal them well lest they allow water from the ballast to escape and leak into the under-deck areas. Take it from me on this one.
Once the cover plates are removed you can access the bolt and nut for removal. Adjust your supports so that it slides out as easily as possible. Once removed, if you find it is bent, either straighten it or replace it once you have freed the centerboard. Tie a string to your wrenches so they do not slide out of reach under the cabin deck if you drop one.
Underneath, with the centerboard well-supported, try to work it loose. Get a gravity assist by gradually lowering your supports. Once it is free, gradually lower your supports until you can remove it and disconnect the lift cable. Clean the trunk and centerboard. Replace or repair the centerboard as necessary, and re-install in reverse order.
IMPORTANT CAUTIONS:
-When working under the boat, place jack stands, cinder blocks, or whatever to keep the boat from crushing you if your primary supports fail.
-The centerboard is solid fiberglass and quite heavy (85 lbs, I think). Keep your hands and fingers away from potential pinch points.
Regarding the centerboard support rod (the V-shaped one mentioned earlier). I made mine removable by cutting it off about 6 inches from where it is welded to the trailer. I then welded on a few short sections of angle iron to the portions still attached to the trailer so that they cradle the portion cut from the middle. With the middle section back in place, drill holes through the rod to accommodate retainer bolts (stainless steel, of course). Treat and paint to retard corrosion. Doing this will mod will make future centerboard maintenance much easier.
Please let me know if any of this needs further elaboration, and best of luck!
Once home, scotched the wheels, raised boat off rear of trailer by lowering tongue: setting up boat jack 4 stands at stern (chained the stands and added a piece of 2x4 to keep the stands from moving out or going in, then raising the bow with the jack stand and bracing the bow with an additonal "V" shape boat jack stand to give me enough room to check out centerboard. Used a heavy long screwdriver and was able to pry the keel down easily. Yep, that sucker weighs 85 lbs. Then pushing it back up, it stuck. Then was able to pull it back down. Used water hose to flush out the keel cavity removing bits of weeds and stems. After that, keel did not stick in the up position when I push it up several times. Felt like I dodged a bullet.
Raising a boat off a trailer even only 6"-8 and crawling under it should always be a very big safety concern because you do not want to be "squashed". Blocking the trailer wheels in both directions; and using 4 boat stands on the stern instead of two while connecting them so they wouldn't move might be considered an overkill, but I think it was worth it.
I appreciate your information and it helped me. If I have to work on that center board again, will consider removing the centerboard support rod and use your idea of retrofitting it, OR replace it with a stain-less steel cable (from an old shroud maybe) which could easily be disconnected (an idea suggested from Blue Water Yachts (the MacGregor boat and part supplier out of Washington state).
Now to replace plugs, gas filter, and water pump on 9.9 hp outboard along with lower 90 wt oil and motor oil.... Maybe I'll be able to get it back into the water this year.... Thanks again for your help.....
Raising a boat off a trailer even only 6"-8 and crawling under it should always be a very big safety concern because you do not want to be "squashed". Blocking the trailer wheels in both directions; and using 4 boat stands on the stern instead of two while connecting them so they wouldn't move might be considered an overkill, but I think it was worth it.
I appreciate your information and it helped me. If I have to work on that center board again, will consider removing the centerboard support rod and use your idea of retrofitting it, OR replace it with a stain-less steel cable (from an old shroud maybe) which could easily be disconnected (an idea suggested from Blue Water Yachts (the MacGregor boat and part supplier out of Washington state).
Now to replace plugs, gas filter, and water pump on 9.9 hp outboard along with lower 90 wt oil and motor oil.... Maybe I'll be able to get it back into the water this year.... Thanks again for your help.....
You are very welcome! I'm glad to here you have resolved the issue.
There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to boat safety, in or out of the water. Kudos to you for being extra careful.
Good luck, and happy sailing!
There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to boat safety, in or out of the water. Kudos to you for being extra careful.
Good luck, and happy sailing!
Blue Water Yachts in WA carries hardware to spruce up the 26S. I was a regular customer when I owned one.
Centerboard
Blue Water Yachts is the only factory authorized distributor for MacGregor sailboat parts and accessories. We sell factory replacement and upgrade sails, fiberglass rudders, centerboards and daggerboard, replacement plexiglass windows for most MacGregor boats. Also Venture sailboats and...
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