macerator flow sight galss

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Jan 12, 2011
930
Hunter 410 full time cruiser
Both the heads on my boat discharge to a holding tank (no overboard arrange) and have to be pumped out with the macerator (or sucked out).

The forward tank the last owner says never was used. But I used it and the level gauge now says it is half full. The aft tank is used most of the time and the level gauge always says it is empty (it's wrong azs I learned when stuff came out the vent!).

The first time I pumped the forward tank the macerator ran, and ran and ran till it tripped the breaker. I could not really tell by the sound that it pumped out. It later reset and the pump seems to run fine and from the sound I would say it does pump (but am guessing really). But I can not really tell by the sound when it finishes. The gauge still says it is 1/2 full so it doesn't work either, or does it which is another question.

I was going to have it pumped out. But started wondering if the vent was clogged because it had not been used. So decided not to have it sucked out in fear of the tank being damaged. So when I was out the other day I took the pump out fitting off and tried it again knowing the tank was vented well. It did kind of sound like it did in fact prime, pump, and empty this time. But it still says it is half full and again couldn't really tell by the sound.

And of course the aft tank always says it is empty when I know it isn't.

I don't really want to mess with the level gauges tuill next fall on haul out. So...

Beside the sound how do you know if the tank is empty? Would the amps go up and come back down after it is empty? It doesn't appear so and it seems to me that it goes empty and the pump starts to bind up and that increases the amps (I can see the amp meter while holding the button). But the amps don't really change much to really make a judgement on.

Now to the posted title: is there a flow sight glass that can be installed on the pump discharge that could be installed to watch for the flow? It of course has to be good for the use as to strength and being not becoming an odor problem.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,186
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
I can always tell by sound. The pump labors and quiets down when pumping and the RPM goes up about a third when it's finished as does the noise. You are right about the amps; there is only 5 amps difference under load as I recall.

As far as sight glasses, you should be able to make one up. Most of our pump outs have one and it is just clear acrylic pipe into PVC female ends with adapters on both sides. You should be able to find out through pump out maintenance personnel a source. Here's another:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic-pipe/=d8f777

Sometimes this stuff just sorts out with greater time with the boat. However, it seems very doable. Good luck!
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,946
- - LIttle Rock
Hooboy...<sigh>...

The first time I pumped the forward tank the macerator ran, and ran and ran till it tripped the breaker

A macerator pump moves 12 gallons/minute...so IF it emptied your tank--which it could not have done if the vent is blocked-- dry friction heat fried the impeller after the first minute. If the vent is blocked, that would have cause the macerator to pull a vacuum which would not only trip the breaker but also fry the impeller right from the get go. So now the macerator pump MOTOR runs just fine, but will never move another ounce out of the tank till the impeller is replaced and the vent cleared.

I was going to have it pumped out. But started wondering if the vent was clogged because it had not been used. So decided not to have it sucked out in fear of the tank being damaged...

So you opted to destroy the macerator pump impeller instead? :dance:Why didn't you clean out the vent lines and actually SOLVE the problem? Just opening the deck pumpout fitting is NOT the answer.

I don't really want to mess with the level gauges tuill next fall on haul out.

I wouldn't wait....All the wiring is already in place and you have a working panel...it's just the senders that aren't working. And replacing the senders with external senders from these folks Profile Tank Monitors is a 30 minute job.

Is there a flow sight glass that can be installed on the pump discharge that could be installed to watch for the flow?

You don't want to "mess with the gauges" but you would mess with installing sight glasses in the discharge hoses on two tanks????

All dockside pumpout hoses have sight glasses...so yes, it's doable, but it's so much easier, and will actually cost you about the same or even less, just to repair the gauges.

So here's what you SHOULD do: Clear the tank vents--BOTH ends of both vent lines, and remove any filters in 'em. Pump out and thoroughly RINSE out both tanks...put new external senders on 'em (no need to open the tanks to remove the existing ones...just leave 'em there)...and replace the impeller in the macerator. That should solve all your tank problems except for any odor problems.

Now you're ready to find out what the toilet needs to PREVENT problems with it instead of having to fix 'em. And you might want to spend some time reading the discussions in this forum to learn how to maintain the whole system to prevent problems in the future.
 
Jan 12, 2011
930
Hunter 410 full time cruiser
I never realized what an idiot I was, even after having reading all the discussions! But now I know.

Thanks!
 
Feb 8, 2009
118
Sabre 34 MK-1 Annapolis, MD
Don,

Don't take it too hard. I've sailed all my life -- 40+ years now -- and I do all my own maintenance on everything -- car engine rebuilds, roof on my house, woodwork and glass work and engine work and such on the boat -- all of it. I like to think I do good work. And I make mistakes. Some that, in hind sight, were really dumb ones.

Boats are a special case. When you first get it, you don't know all the systems. You don't know what things do and how to do them. Hell, on my Sabre there is a red light in the galley that says "alarm." It took me 6 months to figure out that it is a visual indicator of the engine alarm buzzer -- I'm never down there when it is buzzing! In the efforts to figure out what works, what doesn't, and what might be wrong, taking off the pumpout cap to rule out vent issues seems like a reasonable approach, and one that I might well have tried myself.

One big problem with new-to-us boats, especially older new-to-us boats (mine is 30 years old) is that, between all that needs to be done on the boat, all that needs to be done at work, and all that needs to be done at home, we have to decide which ONE critical item on the boat will be done right, and done right now, and all the others will wait until next month, next year, or next haul out. My boat spent the first year with the refrigeration directly wired to the battery with no fuse -- a terrible arrangment and easy thing to fix, but I was too busy fixing even more terrible problems and wanted to get at least some sailing in (that is fixed now).

Oh, and with regard to trying to fix it and ending up breaking it. I don't have a holding tank, I have a Lectra San. My Lectra San never worked right. Raritan provides some decent troubleshooting, but it quickly moves to "Buy a new control panel and central processor at $300." In the process of trouble shooting it so I knew if I needed just the electronics, or should I really buy a whole new unit at $1200, I accidentally touched a wire wrong and fried the board. I now know that the board was actually good before I fried it.

Sometimes, hind sight can be painfully clear!

Good luck,

Harry
Rantum Scoot
'79 Sabre 34
Mill Creek, Annapolis
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,946
- - LIttle Rock
You're not an idiot...

You're just the new owner of an older boat that may or may not have been previously owned by someone who IS an idiot! :dance:
 
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