I have recently noticed that it is taking more and more effort to haul in my main. Can all of the blocks be lubricated? If so what is recomended. I have McLube and use it on the Sail Tracks, but was afraid to use it where it could get on the sheets. The boat is an 89 Cat 30 TRBS, and all of the main's hardware is original equipment. The sheets are Sta-Set and are only two years old. Anyone familiar with the Cat30's rigging knows there are quite a few turns and bends before it gets back to the cabin top. Even so, I have owned the boat for 4 seasons and even my wife has noticed that things are tougher than ever. I often sail by myself, and today it was especialy tough.
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dont oil them
use silicone spray instead wont stain and is safe for all materials even wood drawer slides and plastic parts
use silicone spray instead wont stain and is safe for all materials even wood drawer slides and plastic parts
Ditto...
...to what sand sailor said. WD 40 attracts crud and makes a mess...silicone is the only way to go.
...to what sand sailor said. WD 40 attracts crud and makes a mess...silicone is the only way to go.
Silicone issue
I discourage use of silicone on the boat, as if any of it gets on the gel coat it will make future repair refinishing or painting nearly impossible. This can also be true of getting any of it onto the brightwork (wood). Lubricating the blocks depends on the design and materials they are made of. Open frame ball bearings like th newer Garhauer blocks need only be rinsed out with clear water and dried. The old stuff with stainless axels and white plastic sheaves are more troublesome, and something like MacLube might work O.K. I prefer a wax-based motorcycle chain lube (without silicone) which comes out of the can very thin so it can penetrate, but dries to a grease-like consistency.
I discourage use of silicone on the boat, as if any of it gets on the gel coat it will make future repair refinishing or painting nearly impossible. This can also be true of getting any of it onto the brightwork (wood). Lubricating the blocks depends on the design and materials they are made of. Open frame ball bearings like th newer Garhauer blocks need only be rinsed out with clear water and dried. The old stuff with stainless axels and white plastic sheaves are more troublesome, and something like MacLube might work O.K. I prefer a wax-based motorcycle chain lube (without silicone) which comes out of the can very thin so it can penetrate, but dries to a grease-like consistency.
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