When we purchased our H-34 five years ago, we replaced all the old gate valves with quality bronze seacocks (nylon bal valves) We always close all seacocks whenever we leave our boat, so they do get used. Now they are starting to get a little hard to open and close. Is there any way to lubricate them WITHOUT taking them apart OR disconnecting the hoses? Is there some magic secret stuff that I can pour into the sinks to lube the seacocks? I thought of a small amount of oil, but oil floats and would'nt get to the seacock and worst of all I would be polluting our lake! Just trying to keep maintanence simple! Any ideas welcomed! Charles Duhon "Artistry"
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
I don't have a clue, Charles...
But it seems to me there must be some way to get a wad of teflon grease--which is what you should use--into it. Btw...some doofus on one of the newgroups recommended Crisco as a toilet and pump lubricant... Before one of you gets the same idea, it's a VERY bad one! Crisco melts at fairly low temperature...and it turns rancid at "room temperature" in the 70s. I'll leave the rest to your imagination...
But it seems to me there must be some way to get a wad of teflon grease--which is what you should use--into it. Btw...some doofus on one of the newgroups recommended Crisco as a toilet and pump lubricant... Before one of you gets the same idea, it's a VERY bad one! Crisco melts at fairly low temperature...and it turns rancid at "room temperature" in the 70s. I'll leave the rest to your imagination...
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Tom Senator
What about vegetable oil
It doesn't get rancid. And I've read in quite a few places that this is a very good libricant for nylon and ball valves. I also replaced my gate valves with bronze ball valves and I add a little vegatble oil down the drain/Toilet. It has never hurt anything on my boat in the last 8 years.....and it retains it viscosity in lower tempatures
It doesn't get rancid. And I've read in quite a few places that this is a very good libricant for nylon and ball valves. I also replaced my gate valves with bronze ball valves and I add a little vegatble oil down the drain/Toilet. It has never hurt anything on my boat in the last 8 years.....and it retains it viscosity in lower tempatures
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Guest
If you can trust, try this
Since you're in Texas, I assume you can swim around your boat. If so, get a toilet bowl plunger, have someone go overboard, and have them pop the plunger against the hull over the thru-hull. After making sure that it is in place, and with the seacock closed, you can remove the hose from the fitting. (Now the exciting moment). Open the seacock. Some water will flow into the boat and the plunger will "swoosh" up against the hull and seal even tighter against it. You now have access to the fitting itself and can lubricate it with the glop of your choice. When done, remove the plunger. Good luck. Robert Pancza
Since you're in Texas, I assume you can swim around your boat. If so, get a toilet bowl plunger, have someone go overboard, and have them pop the plunger against the hull over the thru-hull. After making sure that it is in place, and with the seacock closed, you can remove the hose from the fitting. (Now the exciting moment). Open the seacock. Some water will flow into the boat and the plunger will "swoosh" up against the hull and seal even tighter against it. You now have access to the fitting itself and can lubricate it with the glop of your choice. When done, remove the plunger. Good luck. Robert Pancza
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Teflon grease lasts MUCH longer...
As for pouring vegetable oil down sinks and toilets...it won't hurt anything in the plumbing, but when it gets to a holding tank it creates an oil slick on the surface that increases odor problems. And, if you're in cold water, any oill can congeal in hoses, especially sanitation hoses, which are already coated with animal fats that are present in human waste and most likely urine crystals too, that build up in hoses 'cuz everybody stops flushing as soon as the bowl is empty--leaving sewage in the hose to build up and trap everything else that goes by. Maintaining a boat properly is a LOT of work! Just pouring oil down something instead of periodically taking things apart to lubricate them properly is a "spit and chewing gum" approach to boat maintenance.
As for pouring vegetable oil down sinks and toilets...it won't hurt anything in the plumbing, but when it gets to a holding tank it creates an oil slick on the surface that increases odor problems. And, if you're in cold water, any oill can congeal in hoses, especially sanitation hoses, which are already coated with animal fats that are present in human waste and most likely urine crystals too, that build up in hoses 'cuz everybody stops flushing as soon as the bowl is empty--leaving sewage in the hose to build up and trap everything else that goes by. Maintaining a boat properly is a LOT of work! Just pouring oil down something instead of periodically taking things apart to lubricate them properly is a "spit and chewing gum" approach to boat maintenance.
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Eric Lorgus
Do things right the first time
I agree with Peggy about taking the time to take things apart and properly maintain them. I've always heard that the way to service a seacock with the boat in the water is to dive under the boat and insert a wooden plug. Robert's idea of using a toilet plunger is another way to go.
I agree with Peggy about taking the time to take things apart and properly maintain them. I've always heard that the way to service a seacock with the boat in the water is to dive under the boat and insert a wooden plug. Robert's idea of using a toilet plunger is another way to go.
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Charles Duhon
Thanks Everyone!
As always your responses are informative and enlightening. Since only my two sink seacocks are getting tight, I think I'll swim under with a wad of teflon grease on some kind if stiff small paintbrush and rub it on the ball valve. Then open and close the seacock several times and repeat with more grease and see what results I get. Thanks, Charles Duhon "Artistry"
As always your responses are informative and enlightening. Since only my two sink seacocks are getting tight, I think I'll swim under with a wad of teflon grease on some kind if stiff small paintbrush and rub it on the ball valve. Then open and close the seacock several times and repeat with more grease and see what results I get. Thanks, Charles Duhon "Artistry"
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Bob Carlton
This is what Marelon says to do for maintenence.
I came across this "tech tip" on Forespar's web page (www.forespar.com) concerning "Marelon-Marine Grade Plumbing Systems Valve Lubrication". They require twice yearly lube maintenance. The valves should also be activated (opened/ closed) every thirty days. The tech tip says "use it or lose it" applies here. To lubricate the ball valves and seacocks while the boat is in the water, you must: 1) close valve; 2) remove hose from tailpipe; 3)remove remaining water from valve/tailpipe; 4) swab waterproof grease (waterpump grease, winch grease) or LanoCote, generously, on ball; 5)reattach hose, checking for fatigue and rusted hose clamps; 6)activate valve a few times. When boat is hauled, you can perform steps 4-6 outside the hull to lubricate opposite side of balls and seals.
I came across this "tech tip" on Forespar's web page (www.forespar.com) concerning "Marelon-Marine Grade Plumbing Systems Valve Lubrication". They require twice yearly lube maintenance. The valves should also be activated (opened/ closed) every thirty days. The tech tip says "use it or lose it" applies here. To lubricate the ball valves and seacocks while the boat is in the water, you must: 1) close valve; 2) remove hose from tailpipe; 3)remove remaining water from valve/tailpipe; 4) swab waterproof grease (waterpump grease, winch grease) or LanoCote, generously, on ball; 5)reattach hose, checking for fatigue and rusted hose clamps; 6)activate valve a few times. When boat is hauled, you can perform steps 4-6 outside the hull to lubricate opposite side of balls and seals.
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