Loose tiller-rudder joint

Jul 18, 2002
41
The articulating joint between the tiller and the rudder on my Vega
has been loose since the day I bought her (several years ago). The
result is there is a about a 2 cm play in the tiller (measured at the
end of the tiller).

I believe that the bolt hole through the top of the rudder post has
become ellipsoidal. I believe that I will need to take the rudder
off the boat to either drill the hole larger (provide there is enough
meat) or braze a sleeve into the post and redrill it back to size.

Are there any comments or experiences that might allow an easier or better fix?

John
--
John G. Brisson
Department of Mechanical Engineering
41-206
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Cambridge, MA, USA 02139
Phone: 617-253-2273
Fax: 617-258-7754
E-mail: brisson@...
 
Mar 27, 2001
121
Hi John

MIT, wow no shit!

Suggest you treat removing rudder as last option, you need a lot of
ground clearance (or a big hole).

Not sure I'd worry about 20mm movement, seem to remember a bit more
on mine.

Look at previous posts "Tapered pin, which way is out". There's a
flat on the rudder post (is it called that if its made of SS?) that
the tapered pin is an interferance fit with. Maybe the pin has worked
loose.
 
Aug 9, 2000
55
Lin and Larry address this in their book Cost Conscious Cruiser. page 116.
The recommend welding a compression plug and using multiple set screws to
secure the tiller... i would recommend this book to everyone and find it quite
usefull, hope they don't mind me copying the page and sending it off here...
 
Apr 30, 2000
197
John: Is the play in the pivot bolt? In other words, is the rudder head
fitting otherwise tight to the shaft? If so, you can drill out the tiller
fitting and head fitting without removing from the boat, and simply use a larger
bolt. I added nylon washers both sides to reduce wear.

If the play is between the head fitting and the shaft, there is an Allen key
bolt to squeeze the head fitting more tightly. If this doesn't do it, you may
have to rebush the fitting. I'm a little confused, as you refer to a bolt
through the shaft. There's only a tapered pin, at least on my Vega. That makes
me think you are referring to the pivot bolt. Good luck.

Bill Bach V1071
 
Oct 31, 2019
51
I know , I know, mine isin't a Vega but I'm betting that the windows
were/are from the same supplier. My gaskets were bad. I could not match up
the old ones and have ordered new windows ($ouch).. well not really too bad
$750 (CAD) for two long tapered windows in Plexiglass and one smaller 6in
X 14 in safety glass (safety glass won't bend)

Point is.... if anyone else had leaky windows and got them repaired - well
good on ya! I'd love to know the source so I can do my stern cabin. If you
are like me however and need NEW windows contact me off list and I will
send you the info on where mine were ordered from. l have NOT received them
yet (6 wk waiting list) but I did see samples of their work. Very good
gear, should last at least as long as the originals. I do know that they
are not direct replacements, I will have to do some cutting. They do
however pre-curve the frames to match the boats contour, nice touch I
reckon. This firm does ship around the world. If anyone is interested in
how they work out for me let me know, I plan on documenting the
installation with pictures.|Garry|
Albin MS82 #17
 
Aug 9, 2000
55
seams less expensive to replace the gasket with material available from the
clubs here and in europe. from what i hear any automotive glass repair type
person can do the job.
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Garry;

my windows leaked- I went to Home Depot, got a sheet of
lexon (about $ 60.00), used the old windows as a pattern
and cut the new 1 1/2" larger, painted the larger part
(inside) with a silvery spray-paint (makes it look like a
frame), drilled holes every about 3 to 4 inches, used a
special caulking (which a boat builder recommended).. the
whole thing cost me about $ 100.00 - that was about 2 years
ago, the windows don't leak...I live in Florida- it rains a
lot here!

Wilhelm V-257
 
Jun 6, 2000
18
Hi All!

From the Albin Cruisers List Files Section. Check the cross-section of
the opening you are putting it into. the 1/4 x 3/16 refers to 1/4
glass/lexan portlight and the 3/16 refers to the thickness of the
hull/deckhouse it is going into. I can send a small sample to those that
would like to see it in the flesh.C R Laurence Co. , Inc. (Main Office)
PO box 58923
Los Angeles, Ca
90058-09213

TELEPHONE 800-421-6144 FAX 800-262-3299

My Local area office was:
C R Laurence
97 Robert T Paine Dr
Taunton, Ma 02780
508-822-5374

Material Ordered:
QTY Product DESCRIPTION
1 ROLL AS1456 50' w/strip 1/4x3/16
1 ROLL 713080 50' chrome filler strip
Cost about $55 plus shipping
There was also a special tool purchased to install the locking filler
strip - about $15 - worth the price.

Catalog also includes instructions to install - make sure you get it or you
will waste time and do it wrong. i.e..You must over cut rubber by 1/8"
/foot of length or it will shrink and leak at the butt joint. My forward
galley Window req. 1-1/8" due to 9ft length. Plastic cut 1/8" longer .

TimAlbin Cruisers List Moderator

Douglas wrote: