I have a Beneteau First 42 and the strut was loose when I bought it. The prior owner had a boat yard repair the strut but it is loose again after 1 summers use. Anyone have experience or wisdom on this problem?
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Oh Oh
Nov.16, 2000 Dear Jim, When I had a mystery leak on our F456 wich we traced to the strut on a haul out, we found the only way to fix it was to disassemble a rear berth, loosen the bolts, clean and recaulk the strut base, tighten slightly the bolts then 24 hours later take the tension up fully. Then we reassembled the berth. All of this turned out to be a major pain in the fundament. I would make two suggestions which you have probably considered already: (1) contact the yard to find out what they did the first time and get an opinion on why the repair didn't hold from the guy who did the work, and ( 2) get a gauge and check the shaft to make sure it is still running true. If not it will have to be removed and trued or replaced, and could be the reason the strut loosened again, since excessive vibration is the major cause of this problem. The others are hitting something with the shaft or prop, or improperly lifting the boat with a sling over the shaft. Could any of these things have happened? It's always a good idea to know the source of the problem in order to try to prevent repititions of it. Let us know what you find out. Brian Pickton @BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Nov.16, 2000 Dear Jim, When I had a mystery leak on our F456 wich we traced to the strut on a haul out, we found the only way to fix it was to disassemble a rear berth, loosen the bolts, clean and recaulk the strut base, tighten slightly the bolts then 24 hours later take the tension up fully. Then we reassembled the berth. All of this turned out to be a major pain in the fundament. I would make two suggestions which you have probably considered already: (1) contact the yard to find out what they did the first time and get an opinion on why the repair didn't hold from the guy who did the work, and ( 2) get a gauge and check the shaft to make sure it is still running true. If not it will have to be removed and trued or replaced, and could be the reason the strut loosened again, since excessive vibration is the major cause of this problem. The others are hitting something with the shaft or prop, or improperly lifting the boat with a sling over the shaft. Could any of these things have happened? It's always a good idea to know the source of the problem in order to try to prevent repititions of it. Let us know what you find out. Brian Pickton @BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Keep Bolts Tightened
This is just an idea that might help. First. To compact soil it is much easier and efficient to vibrate the soil while at the same time applying compactive effort. This is why vibratory rollers are used in roads and parking lot construction. Okay, we have a propeller shaft and a prop which vibrates when it rotates. The strut, standardly, I don't know the 42's is, mounted to the bottom of the hull. It is no doubt set in bedding compound and sealant, along with through bolts and large washers on the inside, also set in bedding compound/sealant. The bolts are tightened up, shaft and prop installed and splash, the boat is launched. In the course of motoring around, this is my guess, the compression (if you're the boat) or tension (if you're the bolts) decreases due to the vibration and the compaction, if you will, of the bedding compound, bolts and washers. The fiberglass matt of the hull probably also gives up some thickness too due to the compressive loads, even if only a few thousanths of an inch, and the bolts become loose. Normally flat head machine screws are used. Suggestion (if you think the above might be the problem): (1) If the bolts stick up a couple inches on the inside put a pair of locknuts on the ends and hold them in position while the nut against the washers is tightened. (2) An alternative solution is to file a couple flats on the ends of the bolts so a pair of channel locks or crescent wrench can be put on them and tighten the nuts. This does not allow as much 'purchase' to hold the bolts from turning as alt (1). The good part is that one might be able to fix the problem from inside the boat without having to haul it. If water has come through the bolt holes it looks like it would have to be hauled, dried out, and the work redone. Be sure to seal the bolt holes with epoxy. Anytime one does work where it is important that the bolts remain really tight it's a good idea to revisit the project after a while and put a wrench on them again. This is especially true of headbolts on an engine, keel bolts on a boat, and similar mechanical parts.
This is just an idea that might help. First. To compact soil it is much easier and efficient to vibrate the soil while at the same time applying compactive effort. This is why vibratory rollers are used in roads and parking lot construction. Okay, we have a propeller shaft and a prop which vibrates when it rotates. The strut, standardly, I don't know the 42's is, mounted to the bottom of the hull. It is no doubt set in bedding compound and sealant, along with through bolts and large washers on the inside, also set in bedding compound/sealant. The bolts are tightened up, shaft and prop installed and splash, the boat is launched. In the course of motoring around, this is my guess, the compression (if you're the boat) or tension (if you're the bolts) decreases due to the vibration and the compaction, if you will, of the bedding compound, bolts and washers. The fiberglass matt of the hull probably also gives up some thickness too due to the compressive loads, even if only a few thousanths of an inch, and the bolts become loose. Normally flat head machine screws are used. Suggestion (if you think the above might be the problem): (1) If the bolts stick up a couple inches on the inside put a pair of locknuts on the ends and hold them in position while the nut against the washers is tightened. (2) An alternative solution is to file a couple flats on the ends of the bolts so a pair of channel locks or crescent wrench can be put on them and tighten the nuts. This does not allow as much 'purchase' to hold the bolts from turning as alt (1). The good part is that one might be able to fix the problem from inside the boat without having to haul it. If water has come through the bolt holes it looks like it would have to be hauled, dried out, and the work redone. Be sure to seal the bolt holes with epoxy. Anytime one does work where it is important that the bolts remain really tight it's a good idea to revisit the project after a while and put a wrench on them again. This is especially true of headbolts on an engine, keel bolts on a boat, and similar mechanical parts.
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