Loose Steering on Mac 26
- Thread starter Hogan
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A couple of questions
Which model of Mac 26 is it: D,S,M or X? A related question is does it have a 50 HP engine or 9.9 HP or less?
This Mac 26 has wheel steering, not tiller?
Regardless of the answers to the above questions I think you will find that if you are motoring at low speeds it is best to have the centerboard down (at least a little even if it is shallow). This should make the boat more responsive to the rudder so holding a straight course and turning on a dime should be much easier.
Good luck.
Which model of Mac 26 is it: D,S,M or X? A related question is does it have a 50 HP engine or 9.9 HP or less?
This Mac 26 has wheel steering, not tiller?
Regardless of the answers to the above questions I think you will find that if you are motoring at low speeds it is best to have the centerboard down (at least a little even if it is shallow). This should make the boat more responsive to the rudder so holding a straight course and turning on a dime should be much easier.
Good luck.
on my Mac25.....
I had this problem on a Mac25 when trailering it a while back...
What was happening - was the EYEBOLT was slipping out of position on the the bow. That was because the Keel Bolt had snapped - and the PO had just "cranked it in...." so there was a two fold problem....
As the boat slid back.... it didn't take much, either.... the steering on my Suburban got "mushy"....
I think you want to make sure there is 100lbs+ on the trailer hitch... might add some additional tie downs to prevent any slippage, as well.......
--jerry
I had this problem on a Mac25 when trailering it a while back...
What was happening - was the EYEBOLT was slipping out of position on the the bow. That was because the Keel Bolt had snapped - and the PO had just "cranked it in...." so there was a two fold problem....
As the boat slid back.... it didn't take much, either.... the steering on my Suburban got "mushy"....
I think you want to make sure there is 100lbs+ on the trailer hitch... might add some additional tie downs to prevent any slippage, as well.......
--jerry
Thanks for your help
Not sure of the model suffix; will try to find out. It has a 50 horse engine and has wheel steering, not tiller. Will advise him to try running with the centerboard down. His wheel steering feels like it has about 6-8 inches of travel before anything starts to happen. Are there spring linkages that might need to be adjusted?
Not sure of the model suffix; will try to find out. It has a 50 horse engine and has wheel steering, not tiller. Will advise him to try running with the centerboard down. His wheel steering feels like it has about 6-8 inches of travel before anything starts to happen. Are there spring linkages that might need to be adjusted?
Since it is a 50 HP engine it is either an 'X' or 'M'
That means that it is a power sailor MacGregor 26 where the water ballast can empty as the engine pushes it up onto a plane above water.
I still stand by my statement that the boat will steer straighter and turn better with some or all the centerboard down AT LOW SPEEDS (<5 kt). I would not use much board when racing along at 20 knots as the boat wants to plane above the surface and dragging the centerboard through the water AT HIGH SPEEDS could prove to be a problem if you turn too quickly (you could capsize which would be bad). So no board for high speeds but it will help your turns at VERY SLOW SPEEDS.
Now the wheel steering thing on a 26' boat. I'll spare you most of what I think about this because it is not your boat, but there must be some slack in the steering linkage to the rudder post. I am not sure whether there are cables and sheaves involved or if there are gears, chain or whatever that control the attitude of the rudder post. I assume that the rudder is mounted on the transom like my friends 26S but I could be wrong. You would have to check the area under the steering pedestal, below the cockpit to see what is loose or slipping when someone moves the wheel. Chances are that a few good hand tools would allow you to take in the 'slop' on the wheel steering whatever the linkage is to the rudder post. Bring a good flashlight to inspect what is going on.
Most of all have fun and good luck.
That means that it is a power sailor MacGregor 26 where the water ballast can empty as the engine pushes it up onto a plane above water.
I still stand by my statement that the boat will steer straighter and turn better with some or all the centerboard down AT LOW SPEEDS (<5 kt). I would not use much board when racing along at 20 knots as the boat wants to plane above the surface and dragging the centerboard through the water AT HIGH SPEEDS could prove to be a problem if you turn too quickly (you could capsize which would be bad). So no board for high speeds but it will help your turns at VERY SLOW SPEEDS.
Now the wheel steering thing on a 26' boat. I'll spare you most of what I think about this because it is not your boat, but there must be some slack in the steering linkage to the rudder post. I am not sure whether there are cables and sheaves involved or if there are gears, chain or whatever that control the attitude of the rudder post. I assume that the rudder is mounted on the transom like my friends 26S but I could be wrong. You would have to check the area under the steering pedestal, below the cockpit to see what is loose or slipping when someone moves the wheel. Chances are that a few good hand tools would allow you to take in the 'slop' on the wheel steering whatever the linkage is to the rudder post. Bring a good flashlight to inspect what is going on.
Most of all have fun and good luck.
Mac 26X Steering
The internal cable works in and out via a screw gear assembly within the pedestal housing (tricky to get to a couple of the screws! - A small driver and and a torch are highly recomended, along with a small pair of hands
)
In terms of slack in the system, it is unlikely to be at the wheel end though. More commonly there will be play in both the telex linkage at the assembly area and even more probably play within the rudder assembly (particularly as these are only held in place by one bolt and are in most cases being constantly lifted and lowered thus needing to be relatively free to move)
A little tightening of these areas is sure to make an improvement.
I agree with the advice on the use of the centre board already stated but personally also couple that with the use of the rudders, even up to around 7knts - particularly in bigger swells where the tide moves the relatively light boat off track very easily.
Regards
Sbods
The steer coupling from the wheel to the rudder/engine assembly is via an enclosed telex (Morse) cable.
The internal cable works in and out via a screw gear assembly within the pedestal housing (tricky to get to a couple of the screws! - A small driver and and a torch are highly recomended, along with a small pair of hands
)In terms of slack in the system, it is unlikely to be at the wheel end though. More commonly there will be play in both the telex linkage at the assembly area and even more probably play within the rudder assembly (particularly as these are only held in place by one bolt and are in most cases being constantly lifted and lowered thus needing to be relatively free to move)
A little tightening of these areas is sure to make an improvement.
I agree with the advice on the use of the centre board already stated but personally also couple that with the use of the rudders, even up to around 7knts - particularly in bigger swells where the tide moves the relatively light boat off track very easily.
Regards
Sbods
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